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Showing results for tags 'drywall'.
Found 6 results
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We want to achieve a shadow gap under the window sills on our build. We are intending to drywall it all if we can, I have made a model of what we want but I am worried that I won't be able to feather this in. Is there a better way to form this in a drywall situation? Here are some pics of my model. Any ideas gratefully accepted.
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Hi, My plasterboarding guy has recommended I use something to seal by new boards prior to painting. He recommended gyproc drywall sealer - which seems to be discontinued in Ireland. He said if you don't seal them there is a risk the tapes/joints will show through- we aren't skimming. Anybody any recommendations for a product for sealing and or priming new boards? I will probably get it sprayed on prior to final two costs of paint. Thanks -
Hi all, I'm trying to work out how to plasterboard the inside of my Fakro roof windows. There is a groove around the inside of the window frame which I believe the plasterboard sits in, but that would leave a gap of around 25mm behind the plasterboard, between the plasterboard and the timber rafter. Also, the plasterboard coming out from the window would be at an angle meeting the ceiling plasterboard, unless I maintain the gap. How is this usually done? Do I need to batten out the gap between the plasterboard and timber rafter? This seems like a very fiddle job if so, as the gap in not consistent along the length of the window... Any help would be much appreciated! Cheers
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Any Advice? Any Tips welcome. I'm about to embark on a cellar conversation. The basement is dug into the hillside, and is a 19th century listed building. So it's old. The cellar has an external door and 2 small windows to a small courtyard - so it's not entirely submerged. (Pictures attached). It does also get a nice amount of airflow. My plan is to build a stud wall, insulate and line the space will drywall, covering up some of the shoddy surfaces. I hope to keep the left brick wall for some character. The biggest concern is the far left corner (seen in pictures). At some point, it's clearly been very damp, but today and for the last few months, it seems quite dry. I'm no pro when it comes to fixing up spaces like this, so any advice is welcome. My worry is that by tanking this corner and then building a stud wall in front, it might cut off the airflow to that area and subsequently causes the damp to return. Would this be the case? Should I somehow integrate a vent for airflow to continue, or should I point all the damaged brick work and then stud wall? It's a hefty job, but I really want to turn the space around. If anyone has any advice, I'd really appreciate it. Thank you! Freddie.
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Having started plasterboarding today I've realised I have some fairly basic questions. I understand it's good practice to avoid lining up board edges with the edges of openings- much as you would do with the frame sheathing. But I can't do this unless I cut a board in half lengthways. Is it really a good idea to add an extra floor to ceiling butt joint (and a messy cut edge meets tapered edge joint, at that) just to avoid having a tiny joint above a door?? Secondly, how important is it to leave a gap between the boards and the floor? I get the point where you have an old house with a potentially damp concrete floor, but this is a suspended timber floor. Third, any tips on getting a good finish in places where I am joining cut boards, or cut boards meeting taper edge?
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Just about ready to scrim / skim the drywalls in the garden room. Just need a steer on the best mud (plaster / filler) and perhaps a bit on coverage so I don't over order or miss out on potential price breaks. Do I buy ready mixed or powdered? I will also invest in a ROTAX for sanding / finishing as I don't yet have a large (ish) orbital sander. Any and all contributions accepted.
