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tvrulesme

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  1. tvrulesme
    There are definitely 2x 25mm 100A flexible links in a single neutral pole of the 100A DP isolator in the picture above. The angle isn’t great but can take another tomorrow
  2. tvrulesme
    true. So in that scenario no need for 80amp fuse either? Just straight from house CU MCB to garage CU
  3. tvrulesme
    Ok this is the part which makes no sense to me. It’s not ok to put a protected box in a CU but it’s ok for Hager to pre-wire with two 25mm2 cables into a single entry point? Could I not just ask the spark to ignore the whole connection block thing and stuff two cables into an entry point to double up the outputs?
  4. tvrulesme
    As usual ProDave a superb answer. Yes sorry it should have been an 80A fuse in my picture. So by my basic calculations I will need 69A in the garage as it's going to supply all of this The current meter is in a cupboard but is in the kitchen and I have pretty bad OCD which will make me want to vomit every time I open the cupboard. Really don't want to move the main power cable in and not sure I would be able to as it's a listed building and they are super picky with this stuff
  5. tvrulesme
    So an alternative? What are they designed for if not splitting cables into multiples?
  6. tvrulesme
    Manufacturer certified you have a point but not enough room? I beg to differ. One I am thinking of is a Hager dual row and there is a tonne of empty space in the one I saw in the shop. Particularly if mounted on the din rail https://hager.com/uk/products/h/vml10606-conunitd10dual-row66w100asw-disc
  7. tvrulesme
    God that sounds awful. What is this box after a box after a box stuff that the Electricity industry seems to love?
  8. tvrulesme
    Fair point. So excuse the massive simplification but this is how I see it. Need to feed a garage CU so will need a 100A fuse between meter and garage CU if I want to be able to use the garage CU to also power a EV Charger. 100A Fuse is din rail mount so as far as my brain sees it I'm only missing a method of splitting the original 100A supply to do this. Clearly I'm not an electrician, just interested and I don't understand why technically you wouldn't be able to do this Oh and I forgot to add in the isolator switch after the meter so will have to imagine that
  9. tvrulesme
    Just to preempt any concerns, all the works below will be carried out by a qualified electrician. In the process of buying a house and just trying to get a head start on planning electrics. As I am trying to eliminate untidy mess is putting a Henly block inside a consumer unit allowed? I only need a 3 way (1 in and 2 out) for 25mm 100A and seems a waste to have yet another thing on the fire resistant board when there is a load of space inside the consumer unit. If not allowed does such a thing as a 3 way din rail connector of this size exist and would this be allowed? Thinking of something like this with 1 x in and 2 x out Or this but for 25mm cables
  10. tvrulesme
    Ah, you genius. Yup, that's the bit I was missing. Thanks so much for the explanation
  11. tvrulesme
    Thanks a million Dave. I kind of assumed because it would be behind the main fuse and this isolator switch that would be sufficient. Just out of curiosity what's the reason that's not enough? Just in case I haven't explained my crazy idea well enough Incoming supply cable > main fuse > meter > Isolator switch (splits into two) > house & garage CUs
  12. tvrulesme
    Just to preempt any concerns, all the works below will be carried out by a qualified electrician. In the process of buying a house with an outdated meter, mains fuse etc which I intend to get UK Power Networks and the electricity supplier to replace with 100A Smart meter etc. I will be running power to the detached garage at some point and may as well add enough umpf for an EV charger. Currently there is no Isolator switch and my question is considering an already crowded electricity cupboard, does such a thing as a combined Henly Block and Isolator exist? I've seen these 4 pole 100 amp isolators so in my unqualified mind joining the two left lower poles and the two right lower poles with a chunky busbar would do the same thing as a Henley Block. The outputs would then feed two respective consumer units, one in the house, one in the garage. Am I thinking crazyness or would this make sense/be signed off?
  13. tvrulesme
    I'm looking in to converting a detached garage to a living space. The wall construction is 200mm lightweight blockwork rendered externally. As the garage goes right up to the boundary my only option is internal wall insulation. I will need multiple things attached securely to the wall (toilet, boiler, sink etc) so I think insulated plasterboard is going to be too much of a pain to use. If I use internal studwork with foil backed PIR between studs does anyone have an idea of the best construction for this which will achieve a 0.28 u-value or lower to satisfy building regs? I was thinking of 100mm studs with 75mm foil backed insulation pressed up to block work 25mm void OSB board pattress where strong fixings are required 300GA Vapour Barrier 12.5mm Gyproc Wallboard Plaster Skim Questions are: Does this sound sensible? Would it be better to have insulation flush with front of studs? Can I use the 25m void to run cables/pipes?
  14. tvrulesme
    Thanks. Yes it's a tight little spot so you'd not be able to get a digger in there. 1m2 down to 900mm
  15. tvrulesme
    Planning a very minor trench excavation to bring in a new gas supply and water main. I've got the safe dig plan from my gas network SGN and looks fine for where I want to dig but just curious what some of the symbols which are not included in their key mean. Assuming 250 PE means a 250mm Polyethylene pipe? So what are 8" SI, 125 FF etc? What about the speech bubble "650943840"? Their key:
  16. tvrulesme
    Thanks Dave. Yes pretty much a full rewire and loads of cables which are no longer in use there. In terms of the void thinking along the lines of this where the triangular bit at the top is effectively for all the cables etc but all plastered. All existing timber to remain in place as a "feature", or replaced with more decorative structural oak
  17. tvrulesme
    We are looking to vault the ceiling in our property and so looking to get a qualified electrician to sort out the mess of cables running though the loft. As we're considering having a service void just below the main ridge, is it compliant to put a timber running board on the rafters next to the ridge and have an electrician secure the cables to it? Found this image but I suspect it's US rather than UK.
  18. tvrulesme
    Thanks Tony. In that case once the water pipe is inside the property, assuming I can take it under the floorboards to the more convenient place without having to dig down to the 750mm I would need outside?
  19. tvrulesme
    I have an old lead water pipe which I am looking to replace with MDPE. My supplier (Southern Water) state: "If you have lead pipes and you decide to replace these, we will also replace our part of the pipe that connects your pipe to our main (known as the communication pipe) free of charge if this is also lead" My part of this is to bring the MDPE to the boundary which in this case is the pavement. The question is could I bring the pipe to the gate shown in the image below by the blue arrow rather than use the existing shown by the red arrow? Would the water supplier then trench to the street stop cock? Clearly this assumes a trench dug to the correct depth etc. We're renovating the property and in future would make more sense to enter at this point as we are moving the boiler to the building on the right side of the gate.
  20. tvrulesme
    Interesting. Also very possible. The property was at one point a general store and also a fish and chip shop in it's lifetime.
  21. tvrulesme
    Thanks Mark. Looks like they have been blocked up at the front and the rear of the house so with all opened up this would probably create the air flow? Damp mostly at the bottom of the walls but this according to damp survey is due to raised ground levels outside I need to dig out amongst other things.
  22. tvrulesme
    I'm trying to identify what these vents/air bricks are for on a house I am in the process of buying. I don't see anything matching internally. The walls are solid, not cavity so it's not a cavity vent. So is it a vent for the loft space or a vent which has been blocked off internally? There are two or three of these. Asking because the house is suffering from damp so thinking of opening these up if they have been blocked off. Thanks in advance.
  23. tvrulesme
    Oh, not as bad as I thought. Yes the drain at the rear drops down around 40cm from the level at the front of the house so this could work. So gently grade down using this point as the high point all the way to the storm drain at the back?
  24. tvrulesme
    There is an existing storm drain to the rear of the property. The problem is that the house is on a (gentle) hill so to get a decent gradient at the section at the front of the house, the trench would have to be pretty deep which is a worry for a property of this age built in 1810.
  25. tvrulesme
    Thank you and apologies, I explained that pretty badly. So we have internal damp and one of the surveyors recommendations is to "Form a trench at the wall junction to a depth of 150mm and fitting Aco drainage or french drain". As the house is on a gentle slope the new drainage will need to discharge around where this drain is so wondering the best way to connect/discharge it considering it will be below ground level?
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