tvrulesme
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Everything posted by tvrulesme
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It's not occupied all the time, a few days a week. Ventilation is pretty decent. I did run a dehumidifier and it went away but has come back
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It was hastily decorated. I'd be happy to hack stuff off to get to the bottom of it. It's a holiday home / mid life crisis renovation project.
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A tiny tiny bit. It's not damp but a little bit of paint has come away at the same height.
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Ha yes, sorry I meant the wall at right angles to this one, the exterior wall.
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Thanks a lot @joe90. I hadn't thought of that. Do you mean inside or exterior? Outside is just painted brick. It's possible that some damp proffing happened inside. I'm not sure. It's damp. If I stick a heater under it it dries out but comes back
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I've been slowly renovating an old 1800s listed building which was suffering from a lot of damp. I've managed to combat a lot of the damp in the house by installing French drains, fixing gutters, reverting to Lime plaster but there's one room which is completely throwing me and not sure how to move forward. There is a damp line running along the centre of the bedroom wall which is an internal wall running at right angles to the exterior wall. Floor plan of the house showing the damp wall And a picture of the exterior wall with the position of the internal wall It's not rising damp because it's in the middle of the wall and exterior ground levels are low. Gutters have been checked. Loft area above is dry with no leaks. Weather seems to make no difference. It's there when it's sunny and dry outside as well as when raining. Any ideas what investigation I should do next?
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Thanks, but this is just regular mesh in render. Question here was about pinning. Saw this on another forum which seems to suggest it's a mechanical thing if vibration is a concern but can't see this clarified anywhere
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Thank you. So pinning literally is when they press it in to the 1st layer? Not a mechanical fixing?
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Apologies in advance for the dumb question. I'm getting a wall rendered over existing and one of the people quoting suggested pinning render mesh to the existing render. Stupidly, I forgot to ask him what this meant so now I'm curious. What pins are used and how are they applied?
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I'll keep you posted as I start talking to them. There seem to be a few from the large ones like Rhino https://rhinoaluminium.co.uk/ Down to small outfits like this guy who has great reviews https://www.facebook.com/www.sheet.metal.co.uk/?locale=en_GB
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It's a listed building and unfortunately the conservation officer requested metal. They don't like fake and they don't like cost saving 😪
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Very good point. I have a lot of non-standard angles and some weird gradients to deal with. Will have a chat with some local fabricators.
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Thanks a lot @Russdl Still looks very tidy from the pictures but I get what you mean. I'd like to get metal capping to match ideally. How did they fabricate the joints? Is it just a overlapping piece or did they do something special?
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I'm in the process of building an extension with a flat roof. Looking to recreate a metal fascia/soffit like the picture below. My google searches have been a little unsuccessful. Most of the fascia's I find are designed for pictched roofs. Would I be looking for off-the shelf fascia/soffits or are these usually something you get fabricated? What should I be searching for? Fascia, soffit, overhang, coping or something else? I'm still in the design phase so would be easy for me to adjust the depths etc of the timber the metal face will be attached to if that saves money on bespoke.
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Thanks so much. Love a bit of early morning Chemistry
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It’s a listed building so the conservation officer would never let me get away with fake. The GRP solution would allow me to explain it as a work in progress
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Thank you, really appreciate the detailed answer. Would this still be the case with a structured underlay? I had assumed that the steel itself would not be touching the fibreglass directly
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Thank you. Yes I'd be doing the fibreglass myself so costs wouldn't be too high
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I'm in the process of building an extension which has a metal roof (probably Greencoat PLX) specified. I'd like to kick the cost of the metal roof down the road a bit and was wondering if I can install Fibreglass coating now to make the structure weather tight and lay the metal roof on top of it at a later date? In short, can you lay a metal roof on top of fibreglass (with structural underlay) or is this a no-no?
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Yes thank you. the yellow string line will be DPC so ground level 150mm below that. The concrete pavers on the left will eventually come out to drop the ground levels but are currently stopping too much collapse so will keep in place until after the pour. Concrete fill depth I have is ~500mm which will bring me just below the drain. Easier than putting the drain through the concrete and putting flexible joints on either side IMO
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Thank you. Yes it's a drain but its temporary and will need relaying with the correct grade once concrete has been laid. Concrete will be poured to below the drain and lintel over the pipe in the blockwork
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I'm building an extension (basically corridor) between my house and a detached garage I plan on converting. The trenches at 600mm wide leave just a small strip in the middle. Aside from the cost of concrete, is there any reason for this to be 2 trenches or could I just excavate the lot to the levels specified by BCO and fill the whole thing with concrete? Blue lines mark the inside of the trench
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Damp internal wall (at right angles to exterior walls)
tvrulesme replied to tvrulesme's topic in Damp & DPCs
Just found this from the decorator a while back so looks like it's a historical issue....
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Damp internal wall (at right angles to exterior walls)
tvrulesme replied to tvrulesme's topic in Damp & DPCs
Not a bad line of thinking. There was no sign of damp injection being done. As far as I could tell, the bottom half was all bog standard plaster rather than sand/cement. Based on this I'm guessing that if I manage to solve any penetrating damp that may be occuring from the exterior, this would eventually dry out and I can just forget about it? -
Damp internal wall (at right angles to exterior walls)
tvrulesme replied to tvrulesme's topic in Damp & DPCs
Thanks Marc. Solid masonry. As far as I can see there is no cavity. The damp comes from the right in these pictures away from the light switch and when at it's worst extends across to the light switch but is definately not coming from the light switch side. Just from a safety point of view, the switch is kinetic so there are no live cables in the light switch box
