SBMS

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I got a quote for this - was nearly double cellulose for some reason for the same thermal performance.

Yes we are having vaulted ceilings. Out of interest what was the price difference? My posi rafter roof is designed so there isn’t any cutting onsite needed?

In a few months/when you’re building, this will be a distant memory

Clause b requires you to inform the council of the occupiers before construction of the dwelling. That’s what prevents You selling it - you can’t build it before you’ve completed the deed to their satisfaction. Be careful you do this!

I wonder whether that deed has ever been tested as reasonable, appropriate or sufficient. For example - no timeframe for the inspection of the property by the council. No specified notice period so they could turn up when you’re in the bath. What happens if You refuse the inspection. That clause is probably unreasonable and unenforceable in its current form. There isn’t a sanction if you default because this is a restrictive covenant deed. This means that, should You break the covenant, the council can apply to the court for an injunction to cease the breach. The purpose of this deed is most likely prevent the property sale; a buyer’s solicitor would find this deed and immediately realise You’re not in a position to legally sell. However, it would be more difficult To enforce if you decided to rent the property. For example, the deed doesn’t define principal residence and whilst there’s a reasonable argument this is well understood, the deed doesn’t exhaustively define it. But fundamentally, your restrictive covenants are designed to prevent sale of the property within your restriction period so is unlikely to be missed by a conveyancer if you did sell.

Are the ones that you fit under the joists effective?

Isn’t this on top of the floor?

So if a single zone is left on, the heat pump would just be running for that zone? Would that work? New build, well insulated, 85mm screed.

I was speaking to a potential installer today re ASHP and asked about his thoughts on zoning. His view was to install individual room stats, but in such a way that the room stats were not able to call for heat from the heat pump, and were set 1-2 degrees higher than the ideal temperature to prevent overheating. The heat pump would then operate solely in weather compensation mode. He stated that this would stop short cycling on the heat pump, but also prevent individual rooms from potentially overheating. I think I understood but wanted to double check... In this arrangement am I right in thinking that the heat pump continues to operate and circulate to all the UFH zones, no matter whether zones are calling for heat or not, but that an individual zone (room stat) has the ability to close its flow down in the event it gets to over temperature? If my understanding is correct, what happens if all zones get up to temperature and the heat pump continues to operate, but there's no call for flow to any zones?? What is the heat pump...heating?

Currently looking at UFH options for our first floor - posi joists with 22mm chipboard. Heating contractor is recommending nuheat clippa plate. We have 480mm joist spacings so can probably fit one spreader between joists. Has anyone had good (or bad) results from UFH That is between and under joists? (We have decided to have heating upstairs for belt And braces even though might not be used much. )

Has anyone had any experience using coloured tarmac/asphalt (such as ulticolour)? Would you recommend it and how much more ££ was it than regular black?

What’s your construction method? I asked our insulation supplierto model most of the junctions which they did for free..

Looks nice. You laying it yourself? Where did you get the tobermore from?

We are still debating what drive surface to use. We’ve got a lot to cover as well - resin far too expensive. What’s up with gravel? Did you put crates down?

Yes, I think you're right. The gap will be bigger than shown in the black diagram above I feel more reassured from you guys that at least he’s not on to a terrible idea. You’ve made me think about the bit below the tray though so might speak to builder if he does a split lintel. Maybe get him to stuff that void with dritherm just in case. I could also be patient and wait 3 weeks… I’m just impatient and I know he’s got lads ready to crack on with the second lift

😂 he can def get them I think it’s the fact we’ve been let down and now having to wait 3 weeks for them! The floor has arrived and waiting to go on so I think that’s why he’s looking at alternatives!

I wondered about that but there shouldn’t be anything stopping them flowing around and under the tray? I also wonder if these in 200mm are what he has struggled to get. Most places online seem to only stock up to 165mm cavity version. Maybe 200mm are special order?

Ah okay.. I thought all lintels needed a tray above no matter what.. The one piece that was specified (it was a catnic) still had a tray specified by architect.. I might show that to builder

Probably! To me the thermally broken one is just a split lintel but they’ve supplied the insulation??

I think this is what the cavity tray is for and then directs out to weep holes?? I think the closer sits below all this but I’m guessing to be honest. I think the nhbc detail Shows this. one thing I am trying to Work out as I cant think in 3d… Would pumped beads get to the cavity below the tray indicated below??

Yes sorry it’s my fat fingers drawing on an iPhone 😂 the nhbc detail at least marries up with what I was thinking and what the builder explained to me. My main question is that a split lintel seems much better for thermal bridging. Is it just labour and cost as to why people use a One piece?

Sorry forgot to say that’s the cavity tray

I think he’s priced that split lintels will be cheaper and the beads will provide the insulation between the two leafs? I’ve tried to draw how I think itll work - does this work with getting the beads between the cavity tray and the cavity closer? pink is outer/inner leaf grey is beads green are box and inner lintels orange is cavity closer

The cavity would be need to be closed at the head of the window - as with the sides. I assume there will still be a tray above but I assume the beads will get ‘between’ the tray and the head closer? Best advice comes from anonymous people on the internet!! 😂