Kelvin

They do unfinished too. https://lpddoors.co.uk/doors/internal-doors/oak/?_finish_type=unfinished-oak

We have these doors from LPD. Arguably still at the mass market end I guess but we liked the quality of these doors and they feel nice and weighty and solid. https://lpddoors.co.uk/products/oak-melbourne-pre-finished/ And these handles. The handles are especially nice. https://lpddoors.co.uk/products/ironmongery-saturn-handle-hardware-pack/

It has to be a V2G enabled charger too. They specify the Zaptec Go Pro for CCS chargers. It’s all in the link I posted. The way it’s worded it doesn’t cover the house load. If you’re on Intelligent go it will likely save you less than £200 per year doing this compared.

According to this it’s V2G. https://octopus.energy/power-pack/ SigEnergy have a module for their system that is a V2X bi-directional DC charger. They have a 12kW and 25kW version of it. Yet to be approved for UK use but it’s coming soon apparently. My interest would be more to back the house up. It’s CCS only so no buying a cheap Leaf and leaving it permanently plugged in. I know you can get adapters but they seem to be very expensive and I’m not sure I’d trust them.

Wrong thread however I have the 820mm in the upstairs bathroom (window above the loo ) and the 1120mm in the downstairs loo. It is somewhat annoying that the lid hits the flush plate but it does make sure you keep the lid down all the time.

I ran two but mostly because I could run the basin waste in the wall and into the roof void then the stack and the shower waste through the ceiling into the stack as if comes down into the downstairs toilet. We have posi joists though.

It’s what we have. RAL7016 (obvz) It scratches easily when handled though. Relatively inexpensive. I also fitted the self-cleaning accessory which are plastic and the shoe thing which is metal as we discharge into an attenuation trench although we have a sand trap chamber that would catch most stuff that gets through. They look ok though.

Scottish regs. I have to submit a variation due to the window in the utility room being moved 1000mm. I also happen to have built the garage as a metal SIP kit rather than stick built (same dims) which they approved via email but I need to add that to the variation too.

The pumped lorry for 164m2 was the quickest £4000 I spent on our house build. My other half wanted to see it go in for some reason but by the time she got here from the rental they were more or less finished. We were walking on it the following day and started work again the day after. The time and effort saved is worth the cost. Great level surface finish and no cracks but we did have plenty crack inducers.

There’s some funky wall paper nowadays. We don’t have any on this house but did on the last house. I secretly quite liked it. I eventually went tile blind and refused to look at another tile mood board. It was the only falling out moment we had.

Pretty much. It is a pia as there are a lot more exits to think about and plug up. Took me ages going around ours on a set of walkie talkies with the other half shouting no until I eventually got everything sealed up. Took a note of it all and when I got BC out I couldn’t get it to hold pressure! We eventually tracked it down to the air test kit.

Do you think it could be how you’re measuring the RH rather than how dry/wet the floor is. It seems to me that leaving the box stuck to the floor for an extended period of time will allow moisture to build up inside it giving you a false reading. I expect it will read lower if you move the box.

It sounds a bit like when a washing machine empties and the noise you can hear at the sink.

😂

The ability to remotely house the blower unit in the Graf is great but the blower unit is effectively silent. What does make a noise is the bubbling of the water when it exits the tank into the drainage field which you can hear through the SVP. But it does require a bloody big hole.

What else does ventilation mean 😉 Therefore, contrary to what post and beam said in reply to my first post the general level of moisture in the house has an impact on the drying speed of the screed.

I can’t find that report. From memory it talked about the general atmospheric conditions in the house and above the screed. If you don’t ventilate the air becomes saturated and it slows the floor drying down. Therefore ventilation aids the drying process.

The ventilation is getting the moisture out of the house as the atmospheric conditions are a big factor. There’s an analysis of this by a screed company. I’ll try and find it. Our Cemfloor screed was down for a few months before we tiled. I’d spent three weeks or so after it was laid running dehumidifiers and ventilating the house. This was during the winter so was having to close windows over night then running the dehumidifiers during the night. Two weeks prior to tiling we put the ASHP in floor drying mode which is one of the advantages of liquid screeds and there was still quite a lot of moisture in the floor. The process I followed was 48 hours with the house sealed up, then ventilated for 72 hours then started dehumidifying which I kept going off and on until there was a significant reduction in the amount of moisture condensing on all the cold surfaces. Our house was unheated at this point.

This is the point I don’t follow with these boxes as that’s what you’d expect to happen.

Sure but our screed released moisture for a long time which created high humidity levels in the house generally. Are you sure the box is properly sealed to the floor etc

What you do leading up to the final test is down to you so yes you should test it. Easy enough at that stage. Building control will come and have a look in the trenches at this stage but that’s all. We blocked the inspection chamber off at one end and tested at the opposite end in the garage. This tested all of the internal plumbing. BC came and watched us.

It’s a killer on self-build. You need to impose deadlines on yourself and stick to them. Once decision made you move on to the next thing. As a procrastinator too I need deadlines without them and I get bogged down.

What type of screed? How thick? It takes a long time to fully dry. I ran the ASHP in floor drying mode which is a two week process. I also had three dehumidifiers running although we were also plastering at the same time so there was a lot of moisture in the house. Plus all the moisture from the timber etc.

If you can replace the whole length why wouldn’t you do that?

My experience with Perth & Kinross council was very different. Due to a few different factors we ended up renting the farmhouse we planned to live in while building 4 months before moving. They sent us a CT demand so I called them and explained the situation. They said no problem let us know once you move in and we’ll calculate it from then. I did need to send them pictures to prove it was empty of furniture they were fine with some boxes. Then when our house was nearly finished and we were waiting on the handrail arriving to finish the stairs and the electrical sign off they contacted me and I said we didn’t have a habitation certificate from building control so we couldn’t move in (this is where it’s quite different from England I expect) they again said let us know when you do. All very reasonable.