Moonshine

Interesting thread, especially the implications on the rating of the timber. looks like a massive bodge job, one that even I wouldn't even do. I would be pushing them to redo properly and it'll be interesting to see what the outcome is.

I can see a connecting clip that isn't fully tightened to the correct torque.

I have this arrangement with block external and render. The architect doesn't like full full cavity but I insisted, and he is a little more relaxed about it that its rendered.

Or a piece of timber at the back and the strap fixed to that by being screwed into.

I went for this with the strapping it seems pretty fixed, though i do think it needs some soft material between the strap and the pipe

I need to fix a drainage pipe to a wall, where it will be boxed in. Due to issues with setting out the slab the pipe is a lot closer to the wall than expected. The pipe needs to be held a max of 2cm from the wall, where as the standard clips hold it 4cm from the wall. Any ideas on a good way to clamp ot to the all?

i would have thought this could be sorted with sanding and filling?

+2 to the basement I am building into a slopped site and its a 3 sided basement, i knew that the costs for it would be high, but its the pain in the arse factor to also account for. Any contractor looking at it will add a lot of risk to the job. If you can, for cost savings ditching the basement as its adds significant costs to any build. I can't see why anyone who's site isn't sloped or isn't in the middle of London would want to do a basement from scratch @Thorfun why did you go down that route?

even with furlough winding down, how do you think the end of furlough and pay ours will affect the industry at the end of Sept?

Where about in the country is it? I am working it out to be £3,200 per m2, ouch! What prelims cost £95k from the third quote?

This is similar to my post here, that i need to get electric ducting in under a floor space, on a similar run to the water. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/22491-water-supply-piping-into-new-house/ I also need conduit for connecting the house to the garage at about a distance of 25m and will need a fair bit. Is this type suitable? https://unitedcivilssupplies.co.uk/shop/ducting-systems/twinwall-ducting/50-63mm-x-50m-black-underground-electric-cable-twinwall-ducting-coil/ i presume something cheaper like this is not suitable due to rippled inside https://www.toolstation.com/polypropylene-flexible-conduit/p47607 Can electric and internet / phone share the same duct?

actually we have really high pressure in the existing house, and we were recommended to put a pressure reducer in to the new build.

The steel lintel should have 150mm bearing each end (unless the SE has spec'ed it different), yours looks about 100-110mm

Yes, yes it would ?

well at lest the wall is straight, just not at 90 degrees to the other ones

This is the area it's going to run under, (dpc to go in under the beams). There is a hole in the external wall to the right hidden behind a beam

looking into it South west water standard is 25mm, they actually have this little diagram to show the arrangement. i think that i am going to use a twin wall duct, internal diameter of 94mm which should give me enough flexibility to feed the insulated water pipe though, i won't seal the external wall hole so that there will be some flex to feed the pipe through. even with the longer turn radius i think that the rest bend will be tight to get through

what diameter of ducting are you thinking?

I have a bit of an odd arrangement of the water supply into my build. The basement where water is to come into is on block and beam from earth, as per the marked up drawing below The waterpipe externally is going to come from under ground to penetrate the outer wall, into a cold space and come up through the block and beam to the stop tap under the stairs. I am about to put the block and beam down in this area, and have the penetration to the outer wall done. I need to understand how to treat the water pipe under the block and beam, especially as I am not ready for the water pipe to be laid yet. Shall i run a duct from the hole in the front wall to the hole in the block and beam for the water pipe to run through when its time for it to be installed, if so what size duct? I presume that the waterpipe in the cold space under the block and beam will need to be insulated to stop it freezing, if so how to do this when its to be run through the duct, what thickness of insulation? What diameter of pipe to use for the water supply?

There is no acoustic provision under Approved document E (building regs) for offices or shops, ADE only applies to resi and schools. There is plenty of design guidelines for the acoustics of commercial / offices, but noting required under the regs.

That looks commercial rather than resi?

yeah as nod says its going to take a bit of work and upheaval, mainly to get the impact isolation sorted, but also will probably need to take the ceilings down. Have a look at the attached for the type of build up you will need for a conversion jcw-acoustic-refurb-deck-data-sheet.pdf I would make sure that you get it in writing from your BCO that you are targeting ADE for a conversion rather than new build as this gives you a 2 dB relaxation in the criteria set out in ADE

Seems like you can get them for £15.40 + VAT per pack here https://insulationwholesale.co.uk/rockwool-rwa45-acoustic-insulation-slab-in-100mm-2-88m2-pack/

That's because the -6 dB is how the maths / physics works out for spherical spreading (assuming not other loses such as ground or air absorption or barriers, or other contributions from reflections), Its called the inverse square law. The surface of a hemisphere at 2m is 25.1m2, at 4m its 100.5m. So the loss in pressure over the area of the hemisphere from 2 -> 4m is 10*log10(25.1/100.5) -> -6 dB