richo106

Hi All I have attached some photos of my flat roof section which I will need to insulate internally. I need to bring it down around 75mm to match up with my glass front so my plan was to have 25mm PIR over the rafters taped then 50mm battens to create a void for my downlights. My idea at the minute is to put 100mm celotex between the joists pushed right up (50mm air gap will be maintained) then run my MVHR ducting and then put some left over omnifit on top of the PIR. Does this sound an idea or not?😂 I am sure there are better ways to do this so open to any ideas. I have some spare 100mm PIR and knauf omnifit I would like to use ideally. Also as you can see I have a roof lantern, I am really not sure what way to approach this in terms of air tightness or insulation so any ideas would be much appreciated

Vent Axia Sentinel Kinetic High Flow

loft void, plenty of access but i know it was mentioned to create a void so didn't have as many cables coming through the VCL What is the biggest gap I can leave at the bottom of a wall board that is dot and dabbed? If the floor to ceiling joist is 2450mm, if I just put a single plasterboard on the ceiling it will be 37.5mm at the bottom of the board.

I am the electrician and plumber so I'll just have to moan at myself Still undecided on the service void

Hi I have just measured my first floor ceiling height (from bottom of ceiling joists to floorboards) It is around 2450 (give a take 5mm either way) I will be having a mixture of stud walls and dot/dab. I will be having a vcl at ceiling level, I wasn’t going to have a service void but now I have measured it is worth have a service void so that will bring it down slightly so I can use full length boards? Also is it best to install service void battens and plasterboard for the whole ceiling first before installing the studs for walls? Thanks in advance

Hi all (again - really not sure what I would do without this forum) Next week I am planning to start installing my MVHR in a cold loft, I am planning to install a MVHR house. A couple of concerns I have are regarding noise and where to have the ‘house’ My plan was to mount the unit and distribution box on a couple of floorboards screwed to the joists. But mount the MVHR on rubber feet…would this be enough to negate on noise transfer? I have attached a couple of pictures of what I am basing my install on…would it be best to have the distribution box in the insulated box too?

Hi all I am going to be installing my first floor UFH using the fit from below spreader plates, due to having an ASHP it was recommended that I had 150mm spaces and would require 2 x spreader plate per 400mm joist spacing. This would mean effectively 3 runs per joist spacing (does seem abit excessive maybe but don't want it cold) For info: Insulation levels are - Floor and ceiling 0.12 and all walls 0.18, ASHP Originally I was going to attempt the painstaking task of threading it through the posi joists, however the more I think about it the more ambitious/deluded I am being regarding that idea....would you guys agree? I was just going to clip the pipe under the joist and then when complete will batten off the joists using some 3" x 1" (see attached pic) I have never done UFH below so can anyone give me any install hints/tips at all? I am hopeful i can borrow a UFH pipe decoiler

Does it have to be 20mm Kooltherm? Could it be 25mm PIR or is that different completely? Also sorry for my naivety...where does the velux need to be boarded and plastered up to?

Hi All I have the gound floor slab and UFH pipes being installed in the next few weeks and need to decide on exact locations for kitchen units - mainly the island. Unfortunately external wall insulation would not work with our build so we are having to insulate internally with 75mm PIR to reach our target of 0.18. As its only a few walls I was planning on dotting and dabbing using PIR back PB but there is one wall that will have kitchen units on. To give better options for fixing and installing sockets etc I was thinking of using 63mm battens with 50mm PIR between(room for cables), then overlay with 25mm PIR sheets, osb and then PB? Would this work do you think? Could any suggest another/better way of doing it? Many Thanks

In our bathrooms we have had velux’s installed but the bathroom ceiling is flat so creating like a light tunnel etc I am going to have vcl at first floor ceiling level, would it just be the case of continuing this up to the window? Do I need to air tight tape the velux to the wood at all? I have attached pictures to show what I mean

Thank you I think I am going to go the 2 x 90 route but worried about space so it might the 90’s might have to be in 40mm will that be an issue?

Also the outlet on the waste is only 40mm, is it worth putting 50mm in to it or not?

Yes I will be picking up 2 90’s later in the week to have a look at

Unfortunately they don’t I have just spoken to them

Thank you @temp and @MikeSharp01 definitely gave me a couple of options @MikeSharp01 the joists are spaced at 400mm centres and not supporting anything else. The floorboards are nailed and glued. This would be preferable option if it’s doable. I will email my SE tomorrow, pretty sure he will say no but worth an ask!

Hi all I am just sorting my bathroom wastes as they are being installed in the next couple of weeks. I have an issue with my shower waste, due the depth of the waste it hits the top of the posi joist ( see attached pics) I would to notch the posi joist out and batten it in between to strengthen it back up but I guessing this a big no no. Is my only option the bring the shower tray forward in front of the other joist and then can you get some kind of set? Any ideas or suggestions would be very welcomed as I am stuck abit on this

Would battening with 120mm Rockwool between and then 100mm PIR over the top be a good option? This would allow room for the MVHR ducts to run within the insulation

I looked at having a warm loft but naively I didn’t know this was a thing until it was a bit late. I looked at doing it like I did the vaulted ceilings with PIR between the rafters and underneath but the cost was just too much that I could stretch as my budget is already ridiculously stretched

Hi all I have a vaulted ceiling in a couple of the bedrooms. What is the best way to insulate this from the loft side? In the bedroom I will be parge coating and dot & dab. I need to bring in 2 x MVHR ducts and couple of cables. I will need to run the ducts up the wall and insulate them too (as have cold loft) I have attached a photo, the ducts will go through right at the apex Many Thanks p.s I will be fixing the restraint straps with noggins etc

Potentially, I will buy an inspection bend and long radius bend and see where they fall in terms of wall position and kitchen cabinets etc

This is the location of the meter in relation to my boundary/drive I will start to excavate about 700mm away from the valve to see if I can locate it

I need to sort the route for my bathroom waste including toilet as this will be going through my garage pitched roof so access will be a major issue and also needs to be sealed in to the tiles etc After speaking to my bathroom fitter he recommends bringing the toilet waste up vertically. I definitely see the logic in this but then my issue is that the toilet waste will be below ground floor ceiling level…we are having floor to ceiling kitchen units a long the wall so this can easily be concealed I have attached a photo to show where I am planning to bring the waste, bring it tight below my joist and 90 bend up. Cant go through web due to position of toilet Is this ok? Any else got any other ideas at all? Many Thanks

Thank you all for the comments, I might go for the ducting option. I will ensure it is at least 750mm deep My civils guy can dig the trench one day, Ill lay the ducting and install the MDPE and then he can back fill and tidy all up the day after