saveasteading

People can get very touchy about boundaries. I think it is a territorial instinct. But if it ever got legal you only have to have made "reasonable efforts".

What is the problem? Is it breaking up?

Yes they have the power. Who designed this? Would you swear that it is a watercourse? Would something horrible happen if a similar drought recurred and it was your outlet? Would a drainage field be feasible? I repeat my point. Talk to the designer. If that is non-productive then talk to the bco.... watercourse or drainage field?

You've engaged professionals for your design. Get their decision on the resolution to this. If you're happy with it, get it in writing and carry on. Assuming they have proper PI insurance (you should already have details of it) then they are liable.

The bco is not an utter expert on the subject and won't have the qualifications or insurance for this decision. So will probably wants a piece of paper for the files. Unless it's obviously OK. Ask them in casual manner .... is there anything you need more detail on?

Rain the day after is a good thing. I'm still gobsmacked. 250mm of slab with 2 layers of reinforcement! I'm trying to think where I've done that other than upper floors with big clear spans. Is that what some kit system requires?

Impressive but may I suggest that is not a normal house? 1. I've built factories to 10m racking and 5t forklifts that are very much lighter construction. 2.What was the plan if it was wet or windy?

Which do you prefer? Which one would give way? I've worked with both. Personally... as a business I much preferred to start a job at risk. The English way.Building notice. My risk. But I think lots of errors and costs occur this way, and the bco doesn't see them all. The Scottish method ensures better quality and integrated design. Then to water. Scottish water is generally much better quality so why reduce this standard? Why would the English system improve standards? The system likes it as is. Agriculture/ development. * It would cost a lot to improve policing by returning investment and control to the E A etc. * I would prefer much higher standards on new development and them to pay for sewage treatment works improvement. Zero rain to leave the site.

The waste companies can do rather well out of mixed skips. I've been to one where they tip the contents under cover and sort it. 30% air is a bonus. At the end they have it all sorted for mostly reuse. 10% then goes for burying or burning. Figures very approximate. @nod. Ever had the skip driver complain you had packed it too heavy? Good job say I.

When it is expensive to remove, then reuse or different methods will be thought about.

NB. If that was 150mm thick, then the concrete itself will cost 60m3 x £120. £7K ish. So the 4k is obv for labour. Did it include all the kit? What else was extra? Did they cut contraction joints next day? Remember that if it rains you have a problem.

Yes. And so much simpler and you keep control. I've been responsible for hundreds of industrial floors, and would not dream of it for domestic situations.

It is B, but turning it up against the wall is good. Just make sure it is below the gravel for appearances.

A new burner should not emit too much heat to the sides, or through an insulated flue. If it's an old burner then it won't meet regulations so I will be careful not to encourage misuse. Eg insulated flue, chimney liner, air intake. I didn't know what SBR was but looked it up. Does the brickwork need coating or protecting? Is the SBR to be a coating or a mortar additive?

And you employ them? Seriously though. Every construction project should have a waste minimisation plan. Most involved have some vague understanding that throwing away a brick or the end of a timber stud is waste. Putting that good brick, or is it hundreds? in a 'rubble only' skip is then regarded as good. Very few designers give it a thought, leaving it to others. Recycling can be an excuse instead of not wasting material in the first place.l

That's OK if there is a slab under it, which takes the weight of thd gravel, and if the tank is tied down.

If you are insulating then screeding over the top , then the slab can be very ordinary in finish and level control. And thickness. The screed sorts it all out. @flanagaj can we go back a bit? Where are you on programme, floor construction logic? Who told you to go for power float? As you see above, people have tried and had to grind and fill, which defeats the object of a 'finished' surface

It occurred to me that this would be the best source. They will get rid as soon as call-outs become too frequent and hirers complain. They might be fine for a while with careful / caring use. Where do they offload (pun was not intended) them? Eg car leasers send to auction at 3 years, likewise main dealer trade-ins..

OK I've had a very quick read. If, if, if. If all waste at the lowest rate was charged at the highest rate. That doesn't appear to actually be anyone's proposal, just a "what if" option. If any designers could design with waste in mind..... well some of us do and always have done. AND it was even part of uni training. Eg a motorway is designed with a cut/fill balance. No earth goes off site. By raising of lowering finished levels, widening banks, crushing rock etc. Contractors are usually better than consultants at it because it's their money and they understand reality. Ceiling heights. How much timber is wasted off a 2.4m or 3.6m or 4.8m or 6m balk? Choose to suit. Changing heights or spans can make a huge difference. Etc. Any Architects on here want to contribute? Self builders of course don't waste much on site, but may be stuck with an over-design. I may add more about skips and waste handlers later.

I'm too suspicious that these will be on the point of clapped-out-edness. We had a very good groundworker who we used for years, and he had lots of costs and delays for repairs, esp with tracks. One machine he abandoned on our site. Any advice?

I have looked but can't find this story. Could be a windfall tax on developers. The landowner effectively pays. Field worth 30,000 is suddenly worth 500,000.

So you are building a very small industrial unit? These specialists do huge slabs, say 1000m2 in a day. They would turn up with 8 workers ,concrete pump, 3 power floats and all the kit. 2 of them stay overnight for the final polish. That isn't what you want is it? PFF is not good for a house. Can you explain why you want it?

Membrane yes. It prevents the gravel and sand mixing and becoming nearly a solid.

Not concrete against the wall. Let the water drain down. These holes in the mortar half way between air bick and render look like injection holes for a chemical dpc. As if the building didn't originally have one. Other people may know better than I. The air brick is probably to ventilate under the floor. Is the floor timber? Where is the floor level relative to this picture? The doorway is the easiest guide.

Agreed with @Mr Punter. I've just done this to lower some ground that was too high. Finished level of gravel at a brick, or more, below the dpc. This is so that splasing stays below the dpc. My gravel is about 25mm deep on membrane but deeper would be better. Use non-woven membrane (looks like felt, not cloth) so that weeds don't get through. Be sure that the ground below is permeable, or dig more out to hold more water. Pea shingle is a third the price of crushed stone and easier to handle. And at some stage it will be filthy and need cleaning or replacing so again pea gravel as new stuff will match.