saveasteading

I think it might be serious. It is an old house and a century is enough for the building to settle down, and be repaired once or more. It is a weak area of wall, with 2 window openings creating a pier, which then sits over another window opening. That doesn't mean it can't be repaired. I am usually relaxed about cracks but not this one. Needs to be looked at first hand, and possibly monitored to see if it is stable or moving. What width would you say the crack is at both ends? The rule of thumb is if a pound coin fits in but not that simple. Bottom line...you might take the risk and be comfortable in it, but selling again could be an issue. At least you know someone hasn't concealed this for selling.

At (early) primary school our kids did 'science' including growing seeds. Their teacher thought that the substance of the tree came from the ground. Burnt timber doesn't just become carbon and a few trace elements though, and the smoke, ash, resins etc are going to take a long time to become air again.

A Gus special that should be filed for reuse. If you really want to design this yourself, then it is essential to understand the guidance. The principles are all good. Making sure everyone can escape. I suggest printing the regs and marking up ( highlight pen) the relevant clauses to suit your own situation. It then becomes less of a muddle of ifs and buts. Also accept that it can cost quite a lot, and may result in a door that you would rather not have. Other, less well behaved and moderated, advice sites may suggest taking a door off after the bco is finished. Don't dream of it as lives are genuinely at stake and it wouldn't be a good way to go.

A good stir to get us going today! No, I think you burned it because it was cheaper than a skip and macho fun. Reusing it would be neutral. Does the council accept wood as a separated product?

Lots of good advice. From my own expertise I emphasise 2 points. Basement is commercially unsound, unless land is extremely expensive. Especially so close to other properties. Good parking is essential, and arriving and leaving in forward gear is mandatory. People do not like to park away from the house, so 2 spaces plus genuine turning space is essential commercially as well as for planning.

Generally on waste. I was in a contractors' discussion group once (before it became a 'thing') where we swapped ideas, even when we were in competition. A few points arising. This is for new build not demo. 1. Skips cost about £2,000 each. £250 for the hire and the rest for the stuff you should not have bought' only to throw it in a skip. 2. Subcontractors and trades don't care when it is your material. 3. Site managers only care when they are completely bought into the principle, which is rare. 4. Cautious or non-joined-up design causes more waste (material used needlessly) than disposed of waste. Some designers will be interested while others don't like to be told to try again. 5. The chairperson offered a site visit, and reported back that he could not improve on our methods or quantity. 1. Air is very expensive. All boxes to be flattened and stored separately. Timber ditto. There should be no useful stuff in the skip. Bricks and blocks used or expensive hardcore. 2. They have to be made to care, knowing you are watching. using aggregate bags by material instead of skips makes it obvious and big stuff doesn't fit. (example tile battten offuts taken back up to use or cut to fit a hipp bag...maight as well use them...10% improvement on batten purchasing.) Tell them there is hardly any spare material so don't waste it. Emptying and refilling concentrates the mind and saves half a skip. 3.We (the group) devised a form where the site manager had to list the approx contents of the skip, and report on what we could do better . It was easier to do better than fill in the form. Some were known to use diggers to squash the contents, ie achieving reduced number of skips but not of waste. A competitor said his managers starting using grab lorries to keep the number of skips down. 4. Understand costs. tell the designer what it really costs to, for example, use a 600mm tench instead of 450mm. 5. Yes, he was the well meaning expert for a waste quango, but was learning from us contractors. Other contractors perhaps cared less. The above can be worth about 20% of a project cost. especially number 4, which is the invisible one.

Looking forward to following this episode.

You could do that and forget the bifold thing and runner.

Mine were, and I think most are, on a pivot at bottom and top and it rotates on that. So the near edge turns towards the frame as it opens. If the end was round it wouldn't catch but as it is square it needs a gap.

The instructions should say, but I think you need +10mm at the hinge end. It would be a shame to build the frame and then cut back the doors.

I think people are being cautious because of what might be on it already. Should be oilable I think as it looks like the standard / ubiquitous American oak cottage doors.

I looked at the one star reviews. Sometimes interesting. One person complaining the door is only 748mm..not 750 as advertised so returned. Which reminds me that it is all a rather approximate fit, with big gaps, to allow the hinge end to rotate. It took me ages to fit, but all good once done. Where to fit an internal handle was a challenge. But you won't be shutting from inside I assume.

Better ask the bricky. He seems to be in control and you wouldn't want him unhappy with your mixer. I think you need an agreement on how long he will take. Then you will have a known time for your hire or buy formula. Then does the £45/ week come off his pay?

I dont think it does unless huge. 3 phase makes big machines run better in factories. But the point here, I think, is of using one phase as a dedicated supply, just like a second mains. You seem to have enough power in a normal supply. The ashp will be about 3kW. Electric showers, pump not heating, not a lot. The cooker will potentially use more.

On reflection I think it depends. Bricklayers should bring their own and will want a biggish one. Then they will look after it a bit, which involves washing it down and occasionaly throwing a brick in or hitting it with a shovel when not cleaned properly at 3pm friday. One labourer can then serve 2 layers. If you hire it for them it will be your problem if it breaks down, and your cost to clean prpoperly at end of hire.....because they won't. You will also be paying for it when they don't show up. They will not tolerate a small one. They will want paying for lost time if your machine stops working. If diy, which seems unlikely (?), then the smaller ones allow 1 serving 1. Or small batches of mixing and laying which provides variety and reduces RSI.

Your house will be either brick and block or timber with a brick face. The garage is much lighter construction, just holding a roof and no people, so won't support an upper floor without modification. SE should suggest the most economical solution.

After the estimated 14 weeks stretches to 20, there will be other occasions when you will use yours because it is there. We bought a smallish new one. None second hand when wd wanted of course. Its biggest job was 3m3 of concrete which was a lot of refills, but worked out fine. 139 litres, £280 but shop around.

Good point. Same with aluminium. We have an oak worktop, 'sealed' with Danish oil. A damp pan creates deep black staining. Will never use oak worktop again.

They are all going to like you too...it helps massively as they may have choices too.

As you are extending the building, there is little justification for going any deeper than the existing. So a few more spade-fulls and you will know. To avoid digging it again, take a photograph with a tape or measuring stick down to the the bottom of the footing, and showing the depth at ground level. Take a note of the depth from a fixed point: block to brick junction is a good one, Distance to ground, then to concrete, then of the base itself. 150mm outside the wall is pretty standard, so it all looks normal. Absolutely no need to dig internally. The walls themselves will need to be stiffened... that is a different matter. What is the garage wall construction? And excuse my pedantry. The term is dormer window.

Buying by the box can easily save half the cost, maybe more, so I wouldn't rule it out. There must be a spec sheet.

Also with some stainless steel. There are several 'recipes' depending on the use. eg different in swimming pools to roof screws, to cooking pans. Some of the worst staining of hardwoods is the reaction of the metal, so do check further. Stainless threaded rod is quite pricey, compared with normal rod, but would be a lot easier than making your own. If capped off and no weather reaching it, there shouldn't be any worries.

I wonder if that is too sensitive for them, if some of the exhibitors may be in delicate health. They can't exactly advise people to refuse deposits and only use kit companies with healthy cash accounts....when their income depends on many businesses who insist on large deposits.

Stick build gets the raw materials on site straight from bm.

https://www.johnogroat-journal.co.uk/news/highland-housebuilder-ptarmigan-homes-collapses-313055/ More detail here. Went bust. Sold to their own co as a prepack. Big debts. Flash hq. Bust. Worried for the clients and subbies.....who is owed that 800k?