saveasteading

That's your money though. Demand first. A little local pressure might help too. Such as asking thd selling agent fof "advice" " they won't have any but might pressure (oops can't think of a better word) the developer. Ask them for the specifications. Then social media... without being too disparaging at first... I've got a new house by Bodgit Ltd on "Used to be an orchard" Mews. Does anyone else have this problem of know what I can do?

What material is the wall? If you could refix it in the same place solidly would you prefer that?

I cant get the saw moving after a foot or so. Has to be a circular saw I think. BUT we have professionals doing it on Monday Monday EPS Tuesday PIR, so I will be watching closely.

Yes. But fundamentally the water is going somewhere now, or sitting on top and evaporating. French drains feeding a pond then an overflow with a hydrobrake going to sewer or ditch or... something. Without knowing a huge amount more it's guesswork.

That would be good practice and ' the right think to do" for society even if not a condition. Rain in the sewers is what causes sewage works overflows. Have you room for a pond?

I've stopped feeding the birds. A lot of the food is lost to the ground and rodents clear it. Also i read that we are fattening up our resident garden birds in winter, which then dominate the birds we see less.. esp the migrating ones arriving after an exhausting journey.

What happens currently with rain that falls on the site? It goes somewhere.

Steel post in front of the usual impact spot? Farmers don't like to damage their kit, and may try harder. And/or try lime mortar at that vulnerable spot. Whatever you do, don't replace the base and footing. It has joggled along fine for 400 years. OR speak to the farmer.

Our patio doors started going in today.... and the threshold levels were wrong, or incompatible...it doesn't matter except that they didn't fit. That's with me and mine being perfect, remember. It's sorted now, due to collaborative working...and us paying a daywork guy to sort it instead of the intended work. It will always happen.

If it is on the invoice as walls then that will becend of story surely. Don't use the word wardrobe.

I like 2 layers of grey in preference to one of pink. The ends can lap, and cutting-in gets tidier. If they think it has to be pink, then use pink as the outer layer.

I've never known a faulty one. The other huge advantages are in being a one person operation and bypassing obstructions. I think it's cheap to buy one to reduce amusement.

Good professional measurers can, and do. Some people charge money and think they can do it. Once they've been charged consequential costs a few times, they'll stop offering it. Hence back to my mantra.. after they've gone, check the fundamentals with tapes and a level, however primitive and mainly stand back and consider if it looks right.

That's best. Even if all used, the driver will swill out thd drum and drop it on your land. It won't go very hard. If you have surplus you can either spread it thinly as a running surface or kill the strength by reraking frequently and pouring water into it.

you should be ok for manpower then. Have you thought where the surplus and slops are going?

That certainly applies for outdoors stuff that isn't shown, eg a pond or tree. But a worktop is part of the kitchen. I wonder if the vat check is that this isn't a replacement of an original.

I've been reading the Andrew the Vatman brochure that I collected at a recent exhibition. It's all very good info for the uninitiated.... and it turns out me too. We have experience of running a construction business, so won't need the help, so all I can say is best wishes to Mr Jones, and it's good to be so forthcoming with free info. My question is for those of you have reclaimed VAT, and anyone else who wants to guess. There is a list of the likeliest issues to be raised by the Vat inspector, and it intrigues me. Why are Granite worktops frequently queried? And fireplaces, log burners, burglar alarms? The list is long.

In this case it does. lots can go wrong, as listed above. You must prepare as much as you can, to make it easy on the day. Any one thing needing attention will cause other knock-on effects. And the lorry has a time limit. I hadn't thought to mention the mess, but what a good point to emphasise. The washout is a messy process, and the last delivery should have some surplus in it unless you have undermeasured. It will be a big heap on your ground tht will go hard, or that you have to destroy with masses of water, or you barrow somewhere else. On that, when the trench is complete and marked for levels, you can take cross sections to calculate the quantity you need, and revise the estimate order accordingly. I work it out exactly and add approx 0.5m3 for wastage and to ensure it isn't short. If there is between a barrowload and half m3 surplus then that is good. But 1/2m3 takes a lot of spreading...do you have a use for it. I'm talking about projects where being short creates structural or aesthetic issue. On a trench fill you can always get the bricky to build higher or eve add some hand mix. So on yours you could go for the exact amount. Another thing you can do with multiple loads is ask for them to be spaced out, so you have some recovery time. ie not half an hour apart.

I once had to work with a client's architectural technician who wrote "latest" in the box labelled 'issue'. I thought he was winding me up but no, it was what he always did.

Good job you found it now rather than when the walls missed the foundations. It might be worth a spring clean, and delete (or hide away) all the drawings you have and get the architect to send new, clearly labelled 'construction issue'. Then issue them to anyone else who might need to change them. I have a warm glow from suggesting you check it in the twilight. "Yes I would, because people make mistakes." Let this be your mantra throughout. This all maters much more to you than to them. @SteamyTea your drawings are a great explanatory. In real life, I was going to say that the error would not usually be in having a non-square corner as a starting point. But with every little builder now having a Lidl laser, I guess that is quite likely.

Is that assuming another finish will cover it? eg carpet/ tiling? I've never seen it but have seen the ripples in flowing screed. I've looked up the blurb and it seems to mention mainly that it flows around reinforcement and complex shapes. Flooring is mentioned less, and one reference said suitable for domestic (implying only domestic?) and that it doesn't need a screed over it. It's surprisingly difficult to find out more, especially technical stuff about strength and surface tolerances. any references would be welcome as I dont like to not know this sort of thing. @Nickfromwales presumably you've used it. Is it like screed finish? What cost relative to old fashioned pump mix?

How did you notice the error?

So change it / get it changed. He can use the correct drawing next visit. Meanwhile, you have a rectangle marked out too small by a known amount. So you can prepare the area. Perhaps postpone that concrete pour. It's not simple, as you are finding.

Yes I would, because people make mistakes. Presumably the pins are in the ground at the exact spot, so you measure to that, or to a spirit level up from it. Also check any critical distances, for example to an existing feature or a boundary. I would also do as I said earlier and take references, but it is up to you. This is in case a pin is knocked over. It is simple to place offset pins or pegs. Project the wall lines you have, and put a mark in 1m (typically) beyond, at each end. If using a peg, put a nail in the top. You then have 8 pegs. If you wish , tie an orange stringline between them and you have your rectangle, increased by 1m. Then the digging can all be within that, and you have an immediate check. you may also be saving a visit or 2 from the total station.

later so that they don't feel threatened/ doubted, and so you have lots of time to get the hang of it. I think you said the site is sloping. The tapes need to be tight and horizontal. if necessary use a spirit level to bring one point op to the level of the other. Then don't panic if it is a few mm different. the diagonals exaggerate any differences and you have more opportunities for precision as you come out of the ground.