saveasteading

That's what the span tables are. I'm not getting into it for you, but 3.6m seems a lot. deflection will be designed to be 1/180mm , so 20mm up and 20mm down. It isn't bad at all. less than rain on a skylight. I've asked clients what they think of rain noise on a metal roof (in offices and schools) and they either don't notice, or like it.

Why is hep2O preferred? Does it need a fixing tool? I hate Screwfix all being online. If you don't know what you are looking for, there is no chance of finding it. I have kept catalogues but they will become outdated

But you don't need so many on long runs, saving on parts and labour. Ugly though. I think it had been a bad experience. One leak can be expensive. If z pipe simply pops in , can it equally pop out?

I'm doing some fairly coarse plumbing to get the wc and sink connected in the outbuilding. Some time later it will need to be reasonably tidy. Incoming is a 32mm blue pipe with stopcock. I'm thinking of then changing to domestic pipe but I have only ever used copper. ( I got good with end-feed copper a long time ago but have lost the knack a bit.) Anything I need to know about speedfit (or similar if other makes should be considered)? I'm thinking it isn't great for tidy and exposed work but good enough in a garage. What tools? What will I do wrong without advice? Why am I nervous? Used a biggish plumbing company for several projects and they only used copper. It looked beautiful but that wasn't their reason. It must have been trust of the joints.

Because cutting is tricky as is sealing. What slope have you got? A single span of 3.6m will deflect a lot. Have you checked?

I've seen a coke can below the mesh, with concrete expected soon, and the workers, including their boss, standing waiting. I got a very funny look on asking for it to be removed. With their eyes they argued who would have to do it....the culprit or the boy. Logically there are hundreds of cans in concrete. Assume incompetence and check often.

Very difficult for some. If I declared myself a bricklayer then I would certainly drop mortar down the cavity through incompetence. I wouldn't "not care", or deliberately chuck rubbish in but some would. I can't remember how I know how bad it can be....must have had a late need for an extra door or some such. Plus sometimes could see mortar on a cavity tie. My view is that such workers will still be around come the next job, so idiot-proof where possible.

No. Not for a small area. Of course there are. Others on here will know more. First keep the rain out and get it away. Get all your flashings thought out. Next insulate what results.

....come back later. Re timber cladding. Personally, I don't like it turning grey. I have it coated in sadolin. Very dark brown or light oak. The latter is invisible but that colour then stays put. 10 years in the sun and a recoat is needed. Longer than that in the shade.

I like it a lot. Bricklayers cannot drop mortar down the gap (making a dampness bridge at the bottom) , or their empty cans or fag packets. Plus they can't leave gaps anywhere it is awkward for them. I've specified it many times and observed it in use. It has been good on site and in life. Do make sure you have the right waterproof product obviously, as they can look similar, or a bricky might get the wrong stuff.

I am genuinely open to conversion. Can anyone show me superfoil or similar tested in a real life construction? Last time I researched it, the figures were from some obscure method of insulating a box. Not in a section of wall in a lab. Look at what it is: several layers of foil and plastic and foam. Yes each layer works a bit. but foil works by reflecting energy back into an air space. In multiple layers it then hits another face and bounces back again. It depends on being loose so that the air does the work. I went to a talk by the manufacturers, sponsored by the local BCO, but they didn't mention superfoil, only their other products. That confirmed my suspicions. Thus I think their marketplace is for non-industry persons. Btw, the plasterboard manufacturers used to claim great things for foil-faced boards as insulation, but now don't seem to. I've just had a skim through the website. A masterclass in avoiding any solid information. I have gleaned though 'It used not to be as good as was claimed but it is a bit better now because it is thicker. It does work. But I think there are usually much better solutions.

The planners may have been give a 'rainwater hierarchy' list that says green roofs are best. Politely explain your stratagem that it keeps water away from your harvester and from the aquifer and they should accept it. Also that the roof has to be reinforced, and that maintenance at height is required.

That is to kill any dimpling effect on the coating. you don't see it from 1m away. Some continental manufacturers don't have (or need) the grain. You also, in theory need to coat the cut ends but, with good galvanising and proper cutting it isn't a big thing.

I would much rather spend that money on a rainwater harvester, IF you need fancy measures at all. Who suggested it? Planners do think it's good but they aren't the experts.

What do neighbouring houses have for foundations? Talk to neighbours. Do their houses look OK?

The foil figures are imaginary. Forget them. Pir above and wool in the gaps is good...what makes you think otherwise? The saving on superfoil will go a long way to your heating bill.

Not at all. The planning guidance should be clear and it should be obvious whether traditional or boxy is preferred. That is what your consultant is for. Applying twice suggests you don't have confidence in your proposal. Planners are clerical people and go by the guidelines. Vegetation is spelt wrongly...... Distracting....check for similar mistakes.

I wouldn't use superfoil at all, let alone multiple layers. The figures are theoretical. It has to be loose. You show mineral insulation somehow placed around it. I might use it on a garden shed, but more likely would use bubblewrap. You are better off with filling the whole void with pir or mineral wool.

1. Are you joking? See if there are any builders' merchants in Scotland. 2. I use thermalite because I am a weak amateur. Brickies should use concrete. 3. To fit in, stop comparing small English counties to a nation, the Scottish mainland being 270 miles or so. Staffordshire to Galloway perhaps, with England to Scotland being a bit vague between one step and 600 miles. Ken? And now more helpfully i hope. Cladding can rot in 10 years near the sea The quality manufacturers can advise. You need plastisol coating really and that comes with different guarantees too. But it costs more of course.

A local one who has been around a while and knows the ground.

That is it really. don't hammer through the night, radio not blasting. etc. you could put a note on the door. I'm BonaVista working on building work next door 8 til 5 x mon to sat. ...... let me know if you need particular quiet through the day and I'll see what I can do. photo of that and you are legally clear Id think.

I have used a different method over wonky old timber, Thin ply once, and marmox another time.

9 fixings /m2. OK that's a lot of fixings.

OK. Accepted. Isn't there an equivalent for waste? This one says it is for grey waste. Nobody is checking. Or eat charcoal?

Always a good idea. Lighter cladding and closer centred fixings than I imagined perhaps.