TryC

does that mean i should avoid using this plasterer again?

Ah, that probably explains why I am finding it easy to peel off some of the paint in one particular wall in a room. It is like popping bubble wrap, peeling off the paint is kinda therapeutic...well for me it is ha ha

oh dear. I have purchased most of the stuff from the orange DIY shop For the final coat, I was recommended Valspar from the decorator (to be fair, I have never heard of it), so I also asked the orange ladies, and they said it was their best performing range. And now after all the shite advice I have received from there so far, I am thinking I made a mistake! I cannot take the mixed paints back...sigh

Thank you! Will the Leyland Walls and Ceiling emulsion do it? Sorry, but what do you mean about applying a wash coat?

Oh my! is B&Q that bad?? They actually said I didn't need to dilute it (I asked because my wallpaper guy said I can water it down), the plasterer didn't give much advice other than youtube my answer. The ladies at B&Q recommended the Leyland walls and ceilings emulsion. Is that part of their own brand?

it is more about the ceiling Below first three images are of various ceilings - they seem rippley but they are indeed smooth to the touch. The fourth photo is the area between/separating two doors, so the middle seems smooth, and the left hand side is smooth but the right hand side towards the door frame seems rough to touch. Bitty like. I think plasterers get offended if you ask them if they are supposed to have the waves/ripples look in them. mine certainly did...

I'm going to have to re-read this in the morning after some sleep! I'm new to all this, but thank you for your advice

a local joiner I found during my online searches. seems to have very good reviews!

Thanks for the tip! I used the Peelaway paste, I ended up using paste on two doors but then I had to get the 7 variant for another door because it has something that wasn't coming off with variant 1. Photo attached. The paste did the random rectangle spots and the innard of the door and the hot gun on the left side of the door. Is that what this door type is called? 'one over threes' ?

Thanks for the tip! I did consider this as an option, but the doors are bloody heavy, taking them off would of been a mission and more so putting them buggers back on! The local company near me would of also wanted us to take off the door knobs and the inbuilt locks (not possible). They would of finished all the doors in two weeks (2 weeks being doorless throughout the house with pets!), it would of cost around £500 for it all in, but then we would still have to take all the pesky paint off the skirting boards and door frames. I am tempted to get the skirting boards solution to pop over the skirting boards, but would have issues cutting the bits to join! The door crevices are a bloody bugger to strip I tell ya! I have used the peelaway to strip down - do you have any experience with that?

Hi All, What are you thoughts about getting in-built/bespoke cupboards/wardrobes in the bedroom please? We were recently quoted on a bespoke item, but it seemed it consisted of MDF wood cut out and fitted - no shelves of any sort and no backboard, just basically the shell of the cupboard/wardrobe - two of (of an average size) and some shelves in the middle of the two. We were quoted just shy of 2k for this, and thinking about it, it does seem expensive for what it is, especially, if it is just the shell being provided - and what I mean by shell is the frame of the cupboard and the doors - it is not provided with a finish and nor will the joiner paint it at the end. Has anyone got any experience on having these installed or is it better to get one from a store you build yourself and pop it into the space instead! Any advice would be appreciated!

Hi All! So, we're doing some home improvements around the house and rather than getting new doors installed (which definitely seems to be the easiest option by far!!), we wanted to see if we could retain the woodwork to keep some of the original features in place. The doors and the frames and the bits on the stairway/banister have been painted over the years, and prior to us moving in, I wasn't sure if any lead-based paint had been used. So, I didn't really want to use a hot gun or the traditional paint stripper solutions as it could give off toxic fumes when mixing with potential lead-based paint. I used this stuff to neutralise the potential lead-based paint and now I am all stripped down (well, it still needs a bit of sanding - who am I kidding, a LOT of sanding), but I am not sure if the stuff I used to take off the paint has actually damaged the doors to a point we might need an entire new door and frame! Can anyone advise if the doors can be salvaged at all? Initially, we were thinking of keeping it natural and putting on a varnish, but one door (photo not included atm) seems to be a very dark Maghogany colour (which is a bit too dark for the colour scheme we had in mind for the space the door is in), so we have decided to strip and sand then have it painted white. We will use the the Valspar wood paint (which we were told didn't need a separate primer/undercoat) by the good folks at B&Q, despite me asking them to double check this info since the tub actually that before using the paint, that I would need to use Valspar primer/undercoat. I was given shrugging of shoulders and told despite 'it not saying it on the tin that it had the primer/undercoat, I was assured it was in it'. I ended up having to ring Valspar directly who confirmed it didn't have it in the paint and I would need the separate primer/undercoat. Anyway, I went of tangent, can anyone tell me if the doors, the quality is salvageable or shall I be getting new doors in! The first image shows a door which has had about 3 or 4 layers of paint. The second, only had the one layer of paint so stripping that was a dream!

Hi All, Can anyone advice on how best to prep newly plastered ceilings/walls - some will be lined and wallpapered and others will be lined and painted. The ladies at the local B&Q advised all you need is a cheap emulsion to seal it then you can line and paper/paint it. But I also have a tub of wallrock primer and sealer too - but it is an insanely small tub, so when I run out of the wallwock primer/sealer, can I just use the 'cheap' emulsion from B&Q to do the remaining walls and ceilings please? The ceilings have been plaster boarded then skimmed as the ceilings had some damage or were a bit wonky and cracky. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Thanks! do you have an example of what you mean about the simple straightedge please? The plastering done, is nice and smooth to touch but it has 'wavy' looks in it - but it is smooth? Also, on the areas near the door where the space is small, it feels rough to the touch - maybe because the trowel couldn't get into the small space.

Hi MAB, May I ask if you ending going down this route with KV600?

Hey All, Does anyone have any pointers in how you can tell/to know if the plastering done is any good please?

Hi All, I'm not sure if I am posting to the correct forum - if not, please kindly advise so I can re-post it in the correct forum. We're in the process of installing a new bathroom with a toilet upstairs - there is no toilet in the house but downstairs, hence why we would like to install a toilet upstairs Intially, the bath fitter chosen for the project advised he would provide the service end-to-end. Alas, that is not the case and he is unable/won't bring up the internal soil stack downstairs so it can be connected to the soil pipe for the new upstairs toilet. He just wants to be able to connect to it from his end, jobs done. But this has given me nothing but a headache in terms of finding someone who will do only this part of the job (vs. doing the entire bathroom install). I have been told by several different folks that I need a plumber, so I reach out to a plumber, only to be told I need a builder, only for the builder to say I need a plumber. It is a vicious cycle. Then other plumbers/builders I speak to say I need a ground worker, just today I was told I needed another tradesman - which I cannot remember now. Does anyone know what type of tradesman I actually need here? since all these people are pointed to each other to do this type of work. The current soil pipe is internal, so it needs to be dug up/the tradesman would have to find it and dig it up/connect it. Also, should I be wary of contractors who are not even aware that they need to meet with the local councils (regardless of the property being council or non-council) to discuss about about building regulations and keeping in-line with the regulations of connecting to the correct pipes for the the soil stack waste. Any advice would be kindly appreciated.

Hey All! I'm new here and glad to meet all of you. I'm here to get some tips and share experiences as I undertake some home improvements. Speak soon!