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Hi All, I have been recommended to get all the fixtures in a bathroom from different places - i.e. bath here, shower there, taps over there, toilet elsewhere! It is a bit of a drag not being able to buy it all in one place, but I guess there is a reason why I have been suggested this by the fitter. Does anyone have any advice on where to get there fixtures from? I would be looking for baths with shower screen (left hang) size 1650mm, then the taps, shower heads et al, sink, toilet and cistern, flooring, tiles and lights and mirrors and ventilation fans! Any advice would be appreciated.?

Hi All, Any advice on this? Is it OK to tile straight onto plasterboard for a bathroom?

Hi All, I have been recommended to get all the fixtures in a bathroom from different places - i.e. bath here, shower there, taps over there, toilet elsewhere! It is a bit of a drag not being able to buy it all in one place, but I guess there is a reason why I have been suggested this by the fitter. Does anyone have any advice on where to get there fixtures from? I would be looking for baths with shower screen (left hang) size 1650mm, then the taps, shower heads et al, sink, toilet and cistern, flooring, tiles and lights and mirrors and ventilation fans! Any advice would be appreciated.?

Thanks! I'm just going to dilute down some of the sealer/primer I already have and use that didn't think I would have a lot of it left over with it being a small tub!

Thanks! Would the dark yellow parts be the residual wallpaper paste you mention? sugar soap from asda OK? do I need to seal it once cleaned? Thanks for the advice, much appreciated.

Hi All! I would appreciate some advice please. I'm currently prepping one room for decorating. It is currently painted and since it is peeling off - I assume it was not sealed before being painted! Also, the person who had the room had a guest that always kept the door and windows closed and ate in there etc. - no fresh air, so some of the room developed damp or mould patches. It grew onto the paint and once the furniture was moved, you could see it growing through. So, I found out it was peelable when I was trying to remove these damp/mould patches. The pain just peeled off with some relative ease - some areas more than others. I attempted to peel most of it away, so my questions are 1) it is not new plaster, but would it be an idea to seal it anyway? (the areas were the paint has peeled off) before lining it - which will then either be papered or painted 2) do I need to wash the areas with some sort of mould/damp killer, where the mould/damp was growing as I can see stains of it on the old wall/plaster - but ever so slightly 3) do i attempt to peel away as much of the paint as I can or just peel away the affected mould/damp areas? Prior to being painted - it had been wallpapered - wallpaper removed, then painted. Any advice would be much appreciated. I have attached a photo.

oh wow, yes, I can see it now, I'm not a professional and I know that looks bad! thanks for sharing!

Hi All, Does anyone have any experience or advice on using the powered paint rollers? I've seen some called the smart flow rollers (non-powered I think), and then there is the powered ones. They are pretty pricey (powered), and I wanted to see if they are worth investing in. Mainly to be used to paint ceilings, so it will definitely be a workout for my arms for whatever type of roller I use! Advice appreciated

the nearest manhole is actually in the garden. let me try the food colouring idea thank you both!

Hey All, I'm in the process of sealing/priming my wall which has new plaster. I have used some sealer/primer and diluted per the instructions. When I diluted the mix, it just looks like gloopy water with floating Philadelphia cream cheese in it. Is it supposed to look like this? I stirred it as much as I could, but I do not have one of those professional mixer type things. So I hand mix and the cream cheese is melting in but it is still a bitty in the solution. I start putting it on the wall, and it is clear - is it supposed to be clear? or white? then when I go over the wall, it soaks into the plaster and it shows me where I have applied the solution, however, some parts ( see photo), you can see areas which look dry (not the top of the photo as that is actually dry), I started applying bottom going up, and where I have applied all of the bottom parts, it looks completely DRY like there is nothing on it. Like it is repelling it. But I for sure have applied. Does anyone know why this is? Also, how many times do I have to apply this diluted solution/primer? I am nervous I have done this all wrong now, with it not being fully mixed in - I watched a YouTube video and they called it misting and the solution after dilution, still looked thick, but one guy used a lot of emulsion and a jar of water only...so that might be it? Help please!

thanks for the advice!

Hi All, Has anyone had any experience with the green homes grant before it was shut down? i.e. managed to get it done before it ended? Or does anyone have any experience or advice on whether floor insulation is worth the investment in the home (the ground floor) (not heated floors)

Hi All, Just following up with another image I mentioned yesterday about there being two pipes going in the bucket thing (what is this called anyone?), zooming it, it seems that it is duct taped together!!. I am guessing one is the sink water and one is the bath water pipes? Here is a photo of a nearby house who have a toilet upstairs - we cannot ask who did their pipe as it was carried out by the homeowners who lived their previously. It seems a lot of the pipes in other nearby homes look similar to this but some are different. I think it is the black pipe. is that the air admittance vent you mentioned? one of the fellas who came to quote said that is there so bird's don't nest in it. I'm not sure if this piping is done well or not as another fella commented on the same.

thanks for further explaining. Yes, I had one fella say that he needs to get in a specialist to drill the hole as he doesn't have the type of drill. How much would you say this kinda of project should cost - all I am getting is a lot of maybe's and it depends on how far they have to dig. I have also shown them a map from united utilities to show them the pipes placement (but it is more of a sketch and doesn't tell them exactly where it is). Also, should I be wary of contractors who are not even aware that they need to meet with the local councils (regardless of the property being council or non-council) to discuss about about building regulations and keeping in-line with the regulations of connecting to the correct pipes for the the soil stack waste? Thanks again!

oh, one other thing! today I had a new socket installed and they had to break some of the wall/plaster off - it is very minor but still not advisable to patch up using the likes of polyfilla. So I got a quote over the phone for the patch and then a visit who confirmed it would be 40 pounds. This actually seems very expensive for what it is - what are your thoughts? Yes, he might still need to mix it up, but he is actually in the area in which I synced up the install so he could fit it in, so he could just save some overage from his other project and just use up the excess. is 40 pounds a lot? I only ask, because when I asked my plasterer to go ahead and put up some plasterboards before skimming, which covered a lot of area, only cost an extra 60. The job overall was not cheap, but the addition of the plasterboarding was. But this plasterer I doubt would travel back up just to patch a socket, hence I used the one recommended to me by the electrican. Thoughts please

Thanks! the last photo is the pipe, i think is for the sink and bath tub upstairs. I think, the little top bucket thing actually has two little pipes going into it - I'll have to check tomorrow. I know right, proper bodge (haha, I haven't heard that word in a while), I got home and I found that installed I was fuming, but my family said leave it since it was the neighbour's son. but I PAID for it, it wasn't like it was a free job, I wouldn't have room to complain if it were free right, but I paid hard earned money for a new toilet fit and a got a blob of cement and a plastic goose looking pipe.? When you say convert the external stack, do you mean, leaving the toilet inside on the downstairs as is and just bringing it up on the outside so it can be connected to the upstairs?

Thanks for your advice and information. It is very useful. I managed to take some photos to show you the existing downstairs WC. Pardon the dusty images ha ha. I have included two photos of the internal pipe of the toilet downstairs. We actually got this fitted about 17 years ago. I don't particularly like the pipe they used but the fitter is the neighbours son (who is a joiner), don't even get me started on that blob of plaster/cement... The original toilet was one of the old style types, I don't actually recall seeing a pipe on the old one, just a little pipe running up the wall which connected to the cistern and a pulley thing to flush! The third photo is of the outside of the WC. I hope this makes sense. Apparently, the soil drain and fresh water drains are separate and not combined like what is more common these days.

I'm a bit apprehensive about using this to post out jobs, how does this site differ from the likes of checkatrade?

I'm not sure what a stub stack is. Surely, if it is easier to run a new stack up on the outside, the ones that have come would of said? I would I need to specifically ask for this? (as if I know what I am talking about! ha ha)

he initially said he would do the lot, then backtracked when he saw the toilet downstairs. Just said get a builder!

Hey, I'm in the Lancashire area. No, the bathroom is directly above the current downstairs WC. So the new WC will go directly above it. Oldie style I know, no WC upstairs ha ha

yes, some plumbers say use a builder, builders say use a plumber, then some say use a ground worker, so it is turning out to be a big headache. the quote goes from 400 to 800 to 1000 for one. Another one went from 650 to 1400 others won't touch the soil pipe.?

Hi All, I'm not sure if I am posting to the correct forum string - if not, please kindly advise so I can re-post it in the correct forum section. We're in the process of installing a new bathroom with a toilet upstairs - there is no toilet in the house but downstairs, hence why we would like to install a toilet upstairs Intially, the bath fitter chosen for the project advised he would provide the service end-to-end. Alas, that is not the case and he is unable/won't bring up the internal soil stack downstairs so it can be connected to the soil pipe for the new upstairs toilet. He just wants to be able to connect to it from his end, jobs done. But this has given me nothing but a headache in terms of finding someone who will do only this part of the job (vs. doing the entire bathroom install). I have been told by several different folks that I need a plumber, so I reach out to a plumber, only to be told I need a builder, only for the builder to say I need a plumber. It is a vicious cycle. Then other plumbers/builders I speak to say I need a ground worker, just today I was told I needed another tradesman - which I cannot remember now. Does anyone know what type of tradesman I actually need here? since all these people are pointed to each other to do this type of work. The current soil pipe is internal, so it needs to be dug up/the tradesman would have to find it and dig it up/connect it. Also, should I be wary of contractors who are not even aware that they need to meet with the local councils (regardless of the property being council or non-council) to discuss about about building regulations and keeping in-line with the regulations of connecting to the correct pipes for the the soil stack waste. Any advice would be kindly appreciated.

thanks guys! appreciate the input! It certainly has put my mind at ease.

they sure look like ripples don't they!!! But when I touch, smooothhhhh. so I guess they are not ripples. It is skimmed over plasterboard, so when it was drying, I could actually see the plasterboard lines - should you be able to see that? You might be able to make out some of the board lines in the photos actually.