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Hi, does anyone know if screwfix make good is the same/does the same thing as gyproc easifill? Thanks

Thanks for the tips!! decorating sure takes a lot of effort. I really do have a new found respect for decorators doing this day in day out. But not so much for the ones who let you down and don't turn up and ghost you after agreeing for the job. Now diddums is left to do it themselves hence all the questions! they initially said that they had an industrial sander for the walls with the old paste - connected to a suction pipe, that could be used - which is what was quoted for. but on the walls in other rooms, i was just told to just leave it and not bother and just line, then paper or paint!

Hi everyone, Can anyone give me any advice on how best to prep my old walls. I stripped off all the wallpaper and am currently peeling scraping of the peeling paint off some of the walls. I had planned to use sugar soap to clean the walls - probably old wallpaper paste residue, then seal it by diluting the seal before lining then eventually papering or painting it. But now I have been advised by a decorator that I don't need to clean off the walls, just to leave it as it is. He suggested that I stop peeling the paint off and suggested that I would making unnecessary work for myself. That I should put some easifill on the bumpy paint patches then sand down and line it. After that, I should 'size' the walls with diluted wallpaper paste (like all purpose Solvite paste), so that when it comes to lining it, I can 'move' the paper if it needs moving. Please can anyone tell me if I should indeed 'seal' it or ' size' the walls please? Thanks.

ah i see! thanks for the breakdown and explanation. I really appreciate it. I am just waiting on a couple more quotes now!! wish me luckkkkk in finding the right trader!

Thank you! I spoke to one of the guys today about this, He mentioned bringing up the internal pipe then putting in a U bend or something then the fitter can go ahead and connect when was needed. He mentioned the toilet downstairs would be operational as normal (only not available when they cut the pipe or something), but once out and at ground level they will block it off so rats do not crawl in it. This other guy has quoted me about £300 alone for the materials, including the full stack outside with an inlet value. He also advised that the toilet downstairs will be usable as they will be making connections away from that pipe connection. He mentioned that he can place a cap on it temporarily to stop things crawling in when I asked but he then mentioned to me that he might as well install the stack ready for connecting as it only takes a couple of hours from this stage. If someone is bringing this up to ground level and getting it ready for connection to the upstairs new toilet, how much does this on average look like? As I have been quoted a wide range of quotes here and it is becoming very frustrating. I've had 400, 800, 1000, 1100, 1600. ?

Thanks for your input. Sorry if my post was not clear Excuse my bad drawing - I never took Art at school, because I was so bad at it ha aha The drawing is the back of the house - included is the hopper with the two pipes taped together. The manhole is actually on my property some few yards away in the garden. When I lifted it up a small flow of water was constant going from a left to right flow direction. When I turned on the water upstairs there wasn't anything affecting the water in this man hole, but then again, neither did the toilet downstairs when I flushed it - but I could hear it drain away. The pipe map I received from united utilities indicate the foul pipe runs through my garden, and then the fresh water pipe runs through the front of the house (under the road). Yet, even when I share this map with people coming to quote, they I guess do not find this into useful? Should it not at least give them some indication?

Hi All, I finally managed to put the food colouring idea to the test! I put some down the toilet, checked the man hole nearby and it seems the water flow in that man hole stayed constant. No burst of water coming through when the toilet was flushed. But I could hear the water running somewhere nearby that water pipe, but just not see it. When I put the food colouring in the water in the upstairs tap, the water actually just comes down that pipe (from the photo previously shared) with the hopper. I think one is connected to the sink water and the other is the bath water, then it goes straight down the long pipe. So I think I am left with more questions then answers after my experiment. Or maybe I just don't understand the whole idea! Any advice would be apperciated.

thanks! Looks good. Mine won't be a free standing one, it would go over the tub (opposite end of the taps though), not to the side on the wall behind, so hence my worry

Thanks for this! very useful indeed

ohhh! thanks for explaining We have a wet one now - but I think the new one will be electrical, one of them chrome/silver looking ones, I think they're mostly electric?

I'm not sure what you mean by 'not wet' radiator?

Hi All, Does anyone know if you can you fit a towel warmer/towel radiator over a bath tub? is it safe to do so? Not over where the shower goes or the taps, but on the opposite end/walll. Thanks in advance!

Thanks for this. I did actually consider the skirting covers too! who knew these existed ha ha! The people at the orange shope definately didn't and looked at me like I was speaking a different language when I asked if they had any - retorting with there was no such thing. I asked a joiner to see if they would install as I don't have the tools to cut it to fit in the corners. I think this would be my last case scenario as I am trying to retain as much original woodwork as possible - but yes, it probably is easier and cheaper to to get it replaced with a cover with all the time and effort spent trying to save the original woodwork. We also thought about ripping them out, but like you said, it may cause more damage and then I would have to get it plastered up. So we ruled that out, and that is when I discovered skirting covers ha ha That is a good idea re: using taller. ordinary skirting - I'd still need a joiner to cut though I think to pop over the original ones?

thanks! I will check it out! Do you have any advice on sanding the actual skirting board? I am finding it tricky as it has the curves and grooves in it

Hi All, Any advice would be appreciated at the moment! I am currently peeling off as much paint off the walls as I can before I prep to line. But The skirting boards, which had some gaps before, seem to have been filled in very badly, dried rock hard and never been sanded or anything, so they are basically gloopy dried blobs of filler. As I will be papering the walls, I am concerned about the lining paper meeting the polyfilla and it is all lumpy. How do I best remove the filler? Or should I just paper over this and hope for the best? I am just worried that if I do the latter, the paper will just be pierced by the filler underneath then I brush it down. Photo below - any advice appreciated. The filler doesn't look so bad in this photo but there are other walls with filler which are!

thank you!

HI, thanks for the advice but what does IIRC mean please? Ah, got it. googled it. I'm not update with my acronyms!

Hi All, I am due to line my walls to be then painted or papered. I was watching some videos online and I didn't know you could hang your lining paper up horizontally! Do you hang the lining paper up vertically if painting and horizontally when papering over it? Any advice would be appreciated...I'm not looking forward to hanging at all as my previous attempt many moons ago, while it wasn't so bad, still isn't something I enjoy doing. I think the last time I put the lining paper up, I didn't leave time for it to soak and as a result, the paper 'grew' and I had overlapping paper ?

will do! haha, no I don't but it is better than nothing! we have stone walls and apparently, it is a bugger to drill and insulate or the tradepeople actually refuse to do it because it is too much efforts. I previously used the red label for one room when I was a student and couldn't afford wall rock - not that it I can now but I'm not looking to keep doing it so thought this time I have to try wall rock! ha ha

Hi, Does anyone know if I still need to neutralise wood (doors), which have previously been stripped using a paste. But then I have sanded it down with sandpaper and also a sander. Do I still need to apply some neutraliser at all - since I have sanded it?

I purchased a power roller to try!

Hi All, I wondered if anyone could help with a question I have. I recently applied some sealer/primer onto a newly skimmed ceiling (underneath with plasterboard). I used a brush as advised on the instructions, and now I have applied the top coat but there seems to be something going on which I do not understand why it is happening. Please see the image - this is the ceiling and I have highlighted this patch that seems to repel the top coat paint. Does anyone know why this is happening? It has had now three coats and this does seem to get better with each coat, but now I have three patches on the ceiling that has this happening whilst the rest of the ceiling is properly done with the coats. I used the roller because I wanted a nice smooth application versus the paint markers left by the paint brushes. But in some areas where I have painted with the roller I can see brush strokes - could this be because of the sealer/primer application? and hence the reason why I am also getting patchy areas that is repelling the top coat? Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks.

thanks for this. I'll check it out!

quality and durability would be it. I wouldn't want things to break a couple years down the line and have to replace it all, as it isn't cheap to install. I've been recommended victorian plumbing for the en-site and mira showers and bristan taps?

ah , i see. we're getting ready to do ours at some point!