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Hi Lofty. thanks for getting back to me. I've figured it out now thanks to a follow up call with Vaillant. Room temp mod was set to inactive. From what I understand this will ignore the scheduled desired temp completely when reached, this seems to be the case as per reading https://protonsforbreakfast.wordpress.com/2024/10/18/vaillant-heat-pump-controls-part-2-room-temperature-modulation/ I have radiators throughout in 1 zone only for whole house. Unvented Newark "Heatgeek" cylinder set to priority I believe, that is scheduled for 5pm daily to 48c with a legionella cycle every Friday at 5am. I have now set room temp mod to expanded and this has got the system running to how I want. I've notified the installer of this. I have the setback temp higher now at night and leave the daytime time set to what I want for the entire day. The house is never going to be super efficient unfortunately, but a lot of time and effort has been made by me to get it performing to the best it can, Triple glazing, mvhr, airtight in most places with 2 rooms remaining to be worked on but both have the window reveals properly sorted now so thermal bridging is much reduced.

Current and very new setup is Vaillant EcoTEC Plus 630 System Boiler Controls Vaillant Senso Comfort RF Pack (10036826) Vaillant VR940F / MyVaillant Connect (10037346) Vaillant weather comp module Had some weird teething issues with it in that a while back when we had a cold day or 2 in September the heating came on when the wireless Sensocomfort control had heating set to off. It didn't do it after the outside temps went up again so I thought nothing of it, did mention it to installer but he has assured me it's all fitted as per instructions. Fast forward to the last couple of weeks and now it's more heating season, the heating is overshooting the set temperature by up to 4c and heating is still on and off after that. Heating goes off when it reaches the end of the schedule at night and appears to be off over night, rads are cold when I go to bed late anyway and I have randomly checked the boiler if it's on or not. I spoke to Vaillant today and they don't seem to know why apart from told me to get installer back but he is adamant it is set up correctly, Vaillant told me to change the external temperature switch off to 99c which makes no sense to me so doesn't fill me with confidence. It did seem to stop the heating within seconds of that but then came on a while later. I've then switched heating to off via the Sensocomfort which turned it off for the last 5 hours but it's come on again just now and internal temperature is still 3.5c above the desired set temperature. I've got a 0.7 heat curve on it and the flow temps are inline with the curve. There doesn't seem to be a way of seeing what triggers the boiler and it is in heating mode. All settings seem to be as they should be but something is triggering the heating and I'm at a loss as to working out what is. If I go in to the installation menu on the boiler itself there is nothing there in terms of settings without triggering a setup wizard which I'm staying away from. Don't get me wrong it's a nice very warm house but it's a complete waste of energy and money, I prefer it cooler then dial it up if needed. Thank you.

Mobile sim card so pick the mobile carrier you prefer and try and get the cheapest deal you can.

I've just had my GSM intercom replaced with a Hikvision intercom which is poe (power over ethernet). It means it's both networked and powered via the cat5e or 6 ethernet cable when connected to a poe network switch. Mine has a camera, microphone, number pad and proximity tags we can give to family to get in. It also comes with a monitor you fit in the house where it's programed etc. I have an app on my phone as does my other half which allows us to answer and open the gate anywhere we have a data connection. The issue you may have is distance in terms of using ethernet as traditionally it is up to 100m before needing a repeater or switch. The GSM intercom might be an option but there are traditional intercoms I believe that are likely to have some sort of Internet addon.

I'm planning on a 210l cylinder which matches up with the chart exactly, got 2 bathrooms and 4 bedrooms but 3 of us in the house. Thank you 🙂

Hi guys Might be a silly question, can I use a heat pump unvented cylinder with a gas boiler? Was thinking about being heat pump ready in the future. Was looking at Newark Cylinders. Thanks James

Had various trades in over the years for this house and the willful ignorance is off the scale with some of them. Ranging from a house needs to breath so draughts are fine etc to horrendous bodges that I have had to get remedied at huge expense. I'm just lucky that I have a builder who is amazing that has helped fix most of these things. Problem is, he is starting to get on a bit with a few health issues cropping up too and I really do worry who to go to in the future when he retires 🙁

Brilliant idea Mike. Is this why the likes of internorm etc glue the glazing ( I think) in the frames? As per internorm site: I-tec glazing ensures maximum security and safety for your home! The glass pane is fitted into the frame precisely. The remaining gap between glass and window frame is filled with adhesive and afterwards, the glue joint is concealed beneath the cover bead. This creates all around fixing without any gaps, this optimises the, thermally insulated and soundproofed window.

Ply box all round the reveal?

Update. Yes it's taken me this long to get round to it. Removed excess Dritherm insulation. Cut back plastic pipe very carefully with a dremel. Tescon airtight tape around all incoming pipes sealed to plastic protection pipe (stop copper from touching mortar), first used rubber amalgamating tape over cold water feed as the close proximity of me was causing it to get wet from condensation, not much, just enough to stop tape from adhering well. I cut 25mm pir board as best as I could around the pipes and cables. Cut it in 2 to make it easier to fit. Using loads of airtight foam to then fix them in place, including the boards to each other. Let it harden and then foam up all gaps. Trimmed excess foam. Tape pir board joins. Used sticks like **** to fill more likely hairline gaps. Finally, blowerproof airtight paint over everything. Result, draughts gone. I hesitate to say but I reckon it isn't far off airtight there now. Sitting on the dining room we always had a draught feeling as it's open to the hallway where this hole was before. Now, we don't even with the windy weather recently. True test will be when it gets colder of course.

Absolutely brilliant and makes so much sense in the wasted space of some doorways. I wonder if you could somehow make a fire door version. Storage in the utility room and then access to the garage.

I would use an airtight paint on the block work before the plasterboard is attached. A full perimeter of board adhesive on each board as well as top to bottom and left to right in a plus shape on each board. This way the plasterboard and skim are cosmetic and a backup airtight layer. That is if your builder or plasterer plan to dot and dab. I would use an airtight expanding foam like illbruck fm330 or soudal sws airtight foam at the wall to floor junction. This is what I have done in my recent renovations.

Can anyone suggest a good primer please?

Cheers all. I will get a concrete primer too, would Tescon primer do it as I have a new can for other required internal work. Edit: It's the s primer spray that I have. If not, any recommendations please for a primer?

Going to be finishing a garage concrete floor edge, it will be covering the external part of the concrete you see when the garage door shuts. It will also be screwed down too. Any advice on an adhesive to use please? Ct1 was a thought but someone on here might suggest something much better. We are keeping the screws to a minimum due to the possibility of stones in the concrete deflecting the drill bit and making the screw not sit nicely in the countersunk hole. This is a renovation, not a new build a d the concrete edge is not great hence being covered by the stainless trim. A car will drive over the trim eventually. No water will be sitting on it as it will drain to an aco hex drain currently being refitted. Cheers James