j_s

Mobile sim card so pick the mobile carrier you prefer and try and get the cheapest deal you can.

I've just had my GSM intercom replaced with a Hikvision intercom which is poe (power over ethernet). It means it's both networked and powered via the cat5e or 6 ethernet cable when connected to a poe network switch. Mine has a camera, microphone, number pad and proximity tags we can give to family to get in. It also comes with a monitor you fit in the house where it's programed etc. I have an app on my phone as does my other half which allows us to answer and open the gate anywhere we have a data connection. The issue you may have is distance in terms of using ethernet as traditionally it is up to 100m before needing a repeater or switch. The GSM intercom might be an option but there are traditional intercoms I believe that are likely to have some sort of Internet addon.

I'm planning on a 210l cylinder which matches up with the chart exactly, got 2 bathrooms and 4 bedrooms but 3 of us in the house. Thank you 🙂

Hi guys Might be a silly question, can I use a heat pump unvented cylinder with a gas boiler? Was thinking about being heat pump ready in the future. Was looking at Newark Cylinders. Thanks James

Had various trades in over the years for this house and the willful ignorance is off the scale with some of them. Ranging from a house needs to breath so draughts are fine etc to horrendous bodges that I have had to get remedied at huge expense. I'm just lucky that I have a builder who is amazing that has helped fix most of these things. Problem is, he is starting to get on a bit with a few health issues cropping up too and I really do worry who to go to in the future when he retires 🙁

Brilliant idea Mike. Is this why the likes of internorm etc glue the glazing ( I think) in the frames? As per internorm site: I-tec glazing ensures maximum security and safety for your home! The glass pane is fitted into the frame precisely. The remaining gap between glass and window frame is filled with adhesive and afterwards, the glue joint is concealed beneath the cover bead. This creates all around fixing without any gaps, this optimises the, thermally insulated and soundproofed window.

Ply box all round the reveal?

Update. Yes it's taken me this long to get round to it. Removed excess Dritherm insulation. Cut back plastic pipe very carefully with a dremel. Tescon airtight tape around all incoming pipes sealed to plastic protection pipe (stop copper from touching mortar), first used rubber amalgamating tape over cold water feed as the close proximity of me was causing it to get wet from condensation, not much, just enough to stop tape from adhering well. I cut 25mm pir board as best as I could around the pipes and cables. Cut it in 2 to make it easier to fit. Using loads of airtight foam to then fix them in place, including the boards to each other. Let it harden and then foam up all gaps. Trimmed excess foam. Tape pir board joins. Used sticks like **** to fill more likely hairline gaps. Finally, blowerproof airtight paint over everything. Result, draughts gone. I hesitate to say but I reckon it isn't far off airtight there now. Sitting on the dining room we always had a draught feeling as it's open to the hallway where this hole was before. Now, we don't even with the windy weather recently. True test will be when it gets colder of course.

Absolutely brilliant and makes so much sense in the wasted space of some doorways. I wonder if you could somehow make a fire door version. Storage in the utility room and then access to the garage.

I would use an airtight paint on the block work before the plasterboard is attached. A full perimeter of board adhesive on each board as well as top to bottom and left to right in a plus shape on each board. This way the plasterboard and skim are cosmetic and a backup airtight layer. That is if your builder or plasterer plan to dot and dab. I would use an airtight expanding foam like illbruck fm330 or soudal sws airtight foam at the wall to floor junction. This is what I have done in my recent renovations.

Can anyone suggest a good primer please?

Cheers all. I will get a concrete primer too, would Tescon primer do it as I have a new can for other required internal work. Edit: It's the s primer spray that I have. If not, any recommendations please for a primer?

Going to be finishing a garage concrete floor edge, it will be covering the external part of the concrete you see when the garage door shuts. It will also be screwed down too. Any advice on an adhesive to use please? Ct1 was a thought but someone on here might suggest something much better. We are keeping the screws to a minimum due to the possibility of stones in the concrete deflecting the drill bit and making the screw not sit nicely in the countersunk hole. This is a renovation, not a new build a d the concrete edge is not great hence being covered by the stainless trim. A car will drive over the trim eventually. No water will be sitting on it as it will drain to an aco hex drain currently being refitted. Cheers James

If youve got scaffolding up, can you remove/push up the first row of tiles and fix the entire perimeter of wallplate to ceiling junction and cavity to loft insulation join. I did this when we were replacing the soffits and facias. Hell of a job but worth it. I taped and used airtight expanding foam between wall plate and plasterboard. We then added Dritherm 32 cavity batts to the cavity where it was missing as well as enough to over lap the wall plate. We used wall ties to hold the insulation tight in those areas. In the hard to insulate areas where the hip sat on the wall plate I added pir board and foamed it in. We took all the plasterboard off the external walls and used airtight paint and foam from below and overboarded the ceiling. All made a massive difference.

Was looking at reolink poe cameras for my place as now have a cat 5 feed to garage and a separate one on front fence.