garrymartin

If you continue to struggle (and I think you will given the dimensions and weight), then you could consider glueing a piece of wood on the inside of the door such that when it is closed, it rests on the frame ensuring the door "looks" right when viewed and does not, in effect, sag...

It's more about time on-site than overall time. Time on-site is costly; just think of the savings in scaffold hire as just one example.

Great news. It would be worth naming your location and the name of the builder and merchant if you are comfortable doing so. Always good to have the names of firms that respond in this sort of way and do the right thing where needed.

@scottishjohn It's never really about "warmth", it's more about maintaining a consistent temperature at whatever temperature you want that to be. In the summer months, at least some of the time, that's going to be less than the outside temperature. As the climate gets warmer, maintaining a cooler, consistent internal temperature will be even more important.

Here's the list from my Foundations "note" in my PKM system. * MBC Passive Foundation, which is based on the patented Viking House Passive Slab * Kingspan Aeroground, which is based on the Swedish Supergrund system * Kore Insulated Foundation * Castleform Raft Therm * Isoquick * AFT Passive Building Foundations * Greenraft Insulated Raft KORE: https://www.kore-system.com/ CASTLE FORMS: https://www.castleforms.com/ GREEN RAFT: https://www.greenraft.co.uk/ MBC TIMBER FRAME: https://www.mbctimberframe.co.uk/ VIKING HOUSE: http://www.viking-house.ie/ ISOQUICK: https://www.isoquick.co.uk/ ICF BUILDING SOLUTIONS: https://www.icfbuildingsolutions.co.uk/ PASSIVE SLAB: https://passiveslab.ie/ JACKON: https://www.jackon.co.uk/ THERMOHOUSE: https://thermohouse.co.uk/ ECONEKT: https://econekt.co.uk/ ASPECT NUBUILD: https://www.aspectnubuild.com/ AFT: https://www.advancedfoundationtechnologylimited.co.uk/

On some platforms, using Chrome, you can right-click the image and select "Search Image with Google". Alternatively, you can click "Search by Image" on the main Google search page and paste the QR code in. For now, the URL is https://surreyfahs.eu.qualtrics.com/jfe/form/SV_3Q0AQK2oW2enwii

I'm pretty sure most would be fine tied to rebar in a concrete slab, but if you want an absolute guarantee that that's OK from a manufacturer, here's at least one. WarmUp Forte Grid System - https://www.warmup.co.uk/underfloor-heating/water/forte-grid-system https://www.warmup.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Warmup-TS-Forte-2016-09-29.pdf https://www.warmup.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Warmup-TS-AL-PE-RT-v1.0-2016-09-29.pdf

The pipes are pretty bulletproof and shouldn't be damaged during the pour under normal circumstances. There were some questions in other threads about abrasion against the mesh as people are walking on the pipes. I saw the below use of pipe lagging in a Youtube video and initially thought it was a great idea, but then wondered whether it would cause any issues with such a low compressive strength of the pipe insulation in the slab itself...

IANAL, but my understanding is the LDC is not mandatory. If you have evidence, including records of Building Control inspections, the planning department cannot stop your work unless they issue an enforcement notice. If they have seen your evidence, I doubt they would take that course of action. They can *ask* you to stop work while you apply for an LDC, but to the best of my knowledge they a) cannot force you to stop work just by asking and b) cannot force you to apply for an LDC either. By all means, apply for the LDC to keep everyone happy and to be able to authoritatively respond to any future queries from interested parties, but for now, I'd say carry on...

Yay! 🙂

You use the @ sign in your reply, and then the name of the person. As you start to type the name, a popup box will appear and you can select the person you want to respond to. So @Cookie, you're welcome! 😉

"Part S came into force on 15 June 2022. However, it will not apply in relation to building work where a building notice or an initial notice has been given to, or full plans deposited with, a local authority before 15 June 2022, provided that the building work is started before 15 June 2023."

Correct. In effect from 15th June 2022.

What FCUs are you using @Dave Jones? How have you installed them?

@Nickfromwales I'd settled on PE-RT / AL / PE-RT in my notes but this thread had me questioning myself again! Thanks for the clarification.

That's my understanding - EV charge point required. The only time you could install ducting or cabling instead is if you can prove the total cost would be in excess of £3600 as I read the regulations.

I keep reading different opinions on this one and I'm struggling to find a definitive answer (is there one?), specifically relating to in-slab UFH where I'm likely to do the pipe installation myself. @Nickfromwales UFH Direct only seem to sell PERT pipes but you mentioned you prefer PEX? @Nick Laslett has previously mentioned that Wundatrade recommend their Pert-Al-Pert for over floor systems,and their PexB-Al-HDPE for screed. But when researching this topic, he found very little to confirm a specific pipe for going into a concrete insulated slab foundation. @PeterW has previously mentioned that "PERT and PEX are broadly the same thing - a polyethylene pipe, the difference being PERT has a modified binder to deal with continuous high temperature (ie 55°C plus) which isn’t needed in most UFH installations. The AL layer is key to oxygen diffusion but has nothing to do with the flexibility or tightness of bends etc." @JohnMo noted that "Pert-al-Pert pipe is nice to use as it has no memory unlike PEX" but @Nickfromwales seemed to prefer PEX because it *did* have memory. Is there a simple table or decision flow that would see me getting to an answer based on some parameters like pipe spacing and whether it's tied to a grid or stapled to insulation etc? Bit confused right now...

Just means that one party can't sell without the other's knowledge and agreement. If you both agree to the sale, and are joint tenants, then you don't need court approval.

Depends very much on the title and ownership. If they were joint tenants, the property would have been owned in equal proportions between the three of them and there is a "survivorship destination" where the share of the property of the person who has died will be split equally between the two remaining owners. If this is the case, then there should be no issue with a sale as the father's share could not be left to someone in a will. The two brothers are now the joint tenants and own the property. If they were tenants in common, the property could have been split differently (perhaps 50:25:25) and shares do not automatically transfer to the surviving owners. The father's share could have been left to someone else in his will.

So first off, regardless, you can legally put it on the market, but you might not be able to complete a sale until probate comes through. However, because your names are on the title, my understanding is that you could legally sell the property before probate, but whether you could keep the proceeds in full would depend on your father's will and any conditions/allocations in the title itself that may prevent the sale. I know we never like to spend money, but really your best course of action is to ask a solicitor and answer their specific questions. It shouldn't cost that much to get a qualified opinion and will set your mind at rest and allow your position to be very clear as you market and sell the property.

I don't know whether it appears differently on other devices or platforms, but for me on a Mac, it's in Account Settings. Try https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/notifications/options/ and you'll find the settings there in the "Followed Content" section.

If the conduit you have is rated for underground, you should be good. Otherwise, it's worth checking Facebook Marketplace - someone usually has small lengths left over from a project.

Not really, PVC and LSZH SWA aren't designed for the described ground conditions where it's likely to be wet all (or a considerable amount of) the time. You can get special MDPE-coated cables, but they're more difficult to obtain and expensive. That's the way to do it. Proper underground cable duct too, not the flexi you have at the moment.

That was going to be my advice, but I asked about the mortgage as that can sometimes cause issues with splitting the plot as the value of the existing home drops. Depends on the mortgage value of course. If there is no mortgage, then I'd split the title. The OP will need to do that at a future point anyway.

Do you own your current home outright or is it mortgaged?