garrymartin

Oh, OK, didn't know that. That's really interesting. I understand that, as you describe, you essentially have two spurs, rather than a spur feeding two sockets, but I thought you were only allowed one spur from a single accessory; "Only one unfused spur, supplying either a single 1-gang or 2-gang socket-outlet, should be connected to any accessory forming a part of the circuit (Appendix 15 of BS 7671 refers)." https://electricalapprentice.co.uk/connecting-equipment-to-a-socket-outlet-circuit/?utm_source=chatgpt.com#:~:text=Only one unfused spur%2C supplying either a single 1-gang or 2-gang socket-outlet%2C should be connected to any accessory forming a part of the circuit (Appendix 15 of BS 7671 refers). But then Appendix 15 of BS 7671 only states that "an unfused spur should only feed one single or one twin socket-outlet only" - it doesn't explicitly say you can only have one unfused spur from a single accessory, even if that is commonly accepted...

But there is already a spur (C1) off C, so it isn't permissible to also add a FCU spur feeding an additional socket (C2). Without seeing the cable routes, these appear to be the two easiest solutions: 1) disconnect C1 from C, add the FCU as a spur next to C, and then connect both C1 and C2 to the FCU 2) insert the FCU into the ring by disconnecting the cable between C and D, connecting that cable to the FCU along with a new cable between the FCU and C. You can then add as many extra sockets as you like off the FCU B1 and D1 are fine - you can add a single spur off an existing socket on a ring.

Should be fine. Just bear in mind that if it is fibre, it may be a pre-terminated cable of a particular length, so the inside diameter of your PEX needs to be sufficient to take the connector, and the bend radius you employ needs to be appropriate to the connector length too. I installed 20mm flexible conduit from the external box (City Fibre in my case) to my internal comms cupboard and we just fished the cable through when they did the install. No issues.

Not that it will help now, but going into a plastic box, potentially outside, I'd always go with the correct sized Storm gland... https://www.electricpoint.com/swa-storm20s-lsf-armoured-cable-glands-m20-20mm-ip68.html

I find the problem with economics and market value generally has much more to do with plot prices than with how much work you do yourself. Inflated land costs often *lead* to a requirement to do more work yourself to make the sums add up.

+1 very clever

If the issue is that they submitted a S106 that wasn't signed and witnessed by all appropriate parties, that's an easy fix... Is that the issue @Katbuild?

I don't understand what a "witnessed planning obligation" is, to be honest, especially if, as you mention, your planning consultant submitted a Section 106 document with a self-build undertaking in it. My personal experience concerning Unilateral Undertakings is that even if you use a format the LPA has previously signed off on, they will still say it isn't acceptable and will give you some new text that probably doesn't make grammatical sense and that isn't legally enforceable. Nevertheless, you should ask the LPA for an acceptable document template specific to your case. My Unilateral Undertaking included the following for your interest. You'll need some similar words (agreed with the LPA), but in a complete, legal document format; Note that it has to be signed and witnessed by everyone with an interest in the land. If the person(s) applying for permission don't own the land, not only will they need to sign it, but so will any landowners, and any mortgage companies with an interest too. You'll possibly also be asked to provide the Title Deeds for the land so that any interests can be checked. I'd include these as they may be requested, adding further delays.

OK, so that's modern equipment running above maximum specified temperature, so not great. What else do you have in there that's generating that level of heat though?

I'm with @JohnMo - how hot does it get when the door is shut? Two things to consider... 1) most electronic equipment is certified to run between particular temperatures (upper, lower), and it's usually a lot hotter than you would think (we run a lot of datacenters much hotter than we did 10 years ago) 2) it may be more cost-effective to replace the equipment that is pumping out lots of heat with something more efficient that runs cooler My comms cupboard at home runs above 30 degrees in the summer heat, and the equipment has no issues with that.

Are you single-phase or three-phase?

They don't connect per se. The soil will travel uphill at an angle and will then drop off onto the next one. If you Google "soil removal conveyors", there will be lots of photos and videos showing how they operate.

Can't see it costing £30K to be honest. As mentioned earlier, if you have somewhere out the front to move it to for collection by a grab lorry, and assuming you can create a fairly straight exit run through the house, I'd be getting the builder to hire some soil removal conveyors. Set as many as needed up in series through the house, fill them in the back garden and have them depositing to the front. A week's hire for a 4.5M one is about £200-250, so depending on how many you would need, less than £1000 probably with no filling and emptying of bags - either straight into a skip or on to a front garden for grab lorry collection.

OK, so you don't need solid lipping (which is more about aesthetics, to be honest), you need a "solid core door". These are typically made of solid or laminated timber on the stiles and rails and main parts, so you should be good to route your channel and screw down into it. Do a search for "solid core doors", and you should get a good selection allowing you to find something that will match the rest of your decor.

Not that it makes a difference to your search, but the channel is at the bottom normally, so that you can insert an aluminium channel into it that guides the door. There is no stress on this channel, so most doors should be fine to be honest. Are you sure you need a channel at the top? If that's the case, could you link to the Eclisse pocket product you are using. For my own doors (including my pocket door) I used ones with a 20mm solid lipping. XL Joinery Suffolk doors.

Is that so that you can have a smaller gap at the bottom of the door, as the top will aid with the airflow requirements? Or for some other reason?

The consensus is that they are compatible, provided you use the correct pipe inserts. The official responses are below. The official response from Wavin... "Are Hep2O fittings compatible with the JG Speedfit system pipework? We cannot guarantee that all push-fit plumbing brands are made to the same standards for the internal diameter, so we cannot say that Hep2O fittings are compatible with JG Speedfit pipework. We always recommend that you to use Hep2O push-fit plumbing pipe with Hep2O fittings." And the official response from John Guest... "Are JG Speedfit fittings compatible with the Hep2O system pipework? Yes, as long as the correct manufacturer's pipe insert is used. However, JG Speedfit fittings are designed and tested to be compatible with JG Speedfit pipe. JG Speedfit cannot guarantee the specification of other manufacturers' pipe therefore mixing JG Speedfit with Hep2O is not advised."

It's always the last place you look, isn't it? 🤣

I get that - I just question whether it meets the six tests, especially the "reasonable..." one. If you look at the model conditions, they are much more straightforward... "Approval of the details of the siting, design and external appearance of the building[s], the means of access thereto and the landscaping of the site (hereinafter called "the reserved matters") shall be obtained from the local planning authority in writing before any development is commenced"

It's an Outline Application at this stage, so the conditions relate to information that I must provide and gain approval for at the Reserved Matters stage.

I've asked for some to be removed in my appeal paperwork. It seems like the planning officers just randomly tick from a long list of standard conditions with no regard to the size, scale, or application circumstances. As an example, I have landscaping conditions applied to my single dwelling that would be more appropriate to a large commercial scheme in terms of the detail of information required and the monitoring and commitments over a 5-year period! Everyone should definitely check their conditions carefully and challenge any that do not seem appropriate using the mandatory tests.

https://www.nationalgrid.co.uk/documents/tech-info/design-standards/low-voltage?page=4

National Grid can provide 100A on a single-phase in some circumstances, but 80A is standard. There are notes somewhere that an 80A fuse can cope with a 100A load for 4 hours, so they don't generally do 100A on a single-phase, but would look to do 60A on three-phase instead where possible. Lots of NG documents refer to this including SD5A_6 and SD5G_5Part 1 (where the images below come from). What are your specific requirements for 100A? Do they meet the conditions specified in those documents and in SD5D?