garrymartin

It's always the last place you look, isn't it? 🤣

I get that - I just question whether it meets the six tests, especially the "reasonable..." one. If you look at the model conditions, they are much more straightforward... "Approval of the details of the siting, design and external appearance of the building[s], the means of access thereto and the landscaping of the site (hereinafter called "the reserved matters") shall be obtained from the local planning authority in writing before any development is commenced"

It's an Outline Application at this stage, so the conditions relate to information that I must provide and gain approval for at the Reserved Matters stage.

I've asked for some to be removed in my appeal paperwork. It seems like the planning officers just randomly tick from a long list of standard conditions with no regard to the size, scale, or application circumstances. As an example, I have landscaping conditions applied to my single dwelling that would be more appropriate to a large commercial scheme in terms of the detail of information required and the monitoring and commitments over a 5-year period! Everyone should definitely check their conditions carefully and challenge any that do not seem appropriate using the mandatory tests.

https://www.nationalgrid.co.uk/documents/tech-info/design-standards/low-voltage?page=4

National Grid can provide 100A on a single-phase in some circumstances, but 80A is standard. There are notes somewhere that an 80A fuse can cope with a 100A load for 4 hours, so they don't generally do 100A on a single-phase, but would look to do 60A on three-phase instead where possible. Lots of NG documents refer to this including SD5A_6 and SD5G_5Part 1 (where the images below come from). What are your specific requirements for 100A? Do they meet the conditions specified in those documents and in SD5D?

Minor corrective point, but as I understand it, you aren't entering into a legal agreement to live in the house for three years. You're agreeing that should you not, you cease to be eligible for any of the exemptions for charges that you didn't have to pay for things like CIL and BNG, and any other associated things. I've seen on here that some mortgage lenders are spooked by that, but in the context explained, I can't understand why, to be honest.

It's based on two things, I believe - not more than 50% of the garden, and subordinate to the main dwelling.

I always advise people to take a look at the John Cullen webinars to get a feel for how lighting should work and what a lighting designer might be able to help with - https://www.johncullenlighting.com/events/#webinars

Going to depend on your blinds. What do the manufacturer's installation instructions say? Assuming these are 230VAC versions, most will require a 3A or 5A fused plug on the end of their cable, or a fused connection unit (FCU), so that they can be electrically isolated for maintenance, etc. Some manufacturers require that you only have one blind powered up at a time when configuring, but this may not be an issue for you. If it isn't, and provided you understand the load requirements in both startup and use, you could wire more than one blind from a single FCU.

We used Red Grandis on our garden room. Lovely material. https://co2grandis.co.uk/ The two photos are 2 years apart. The black staining on the second photo is just from the construction behind. The weathered look is best seen as the top boards before the roofline.

I remember fondly bringing all the 2400mm boards from the front of the house to the back garden, and I *especially* remember the 12.5mm full boards on the ceiling! Even with a lifter, because we were gluing them, it was a challenge that required help from good friends, and there were many curse words that day!! If we ever build, I'd be looking for min 2700mm ceilings, so as you say, the 2700mm boards would be ideal, but I'm with you on the manual handling - not sure I can face it 🙂

I have a guide pinned in my notes, but it seems very similar to this one online now https://fermacellplaksnes.lv/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/fermacell_Montazas-pamatprincipi-griesti-sienas-jumts-ENG.pdf The 2 stages are the edges and the screw holes with joint filler, then the FST skim. It's difficult to tell from your photo, but is the problem related to slumping on the initial fill? If so, the FST should cover this; however, you may want to check your mixing on the edge filler.

A template and a pattern-bearing bit in a router are also great for this.

It's a two-stage process - even says so in the Fermacell guides on filling. It's nigh on impossible to do it in one go without excess sanding afterwards. But once done, as you say, it's bulletproof. My entire garden room (including the ceilings!!) is full board 12.5mm, and it's as solid as anything. When the boards are glued together, there's also zero movement, and there are no cracks visible anywhere after at least eight years.

Not singling out @saveasteading specifically, but they posted last... 😉 The thread started with questions about both CDM and the new Building Regulations related PD role, but has then focussed almost entirely on the CDM responsibilities. For the BR side, it's not all about safe working, it's about ensuring compliance to BR in design activity.

Which came first, the building or the main... 😉 You are spot on that you need to talk to the water company. There are special rules relating to existing situations and special situations. Let's say there was a water main 1m from a town centre row of buildings, but there was supposed to be a 6m easement (3m either side of the main). It is acceptable in these circumstances for a 1m from the buildings and 5m at the other side in these special circumstances. Generally it's just the amount of space that contractors would require to safely work on it. And as you've found out, the centreline isn't always that accurately surveyed! Just speak to the water company; they will be able to advise you on what you need to be aware of.

Generally, you will have a deed that stipulates an easement strip. The size of the strip depends on the water company and the size of the pipe. The deed associated with my plot stipulates a 10m strip (5m either side) for a 3-inch PVC water main, but the local water company have confirmed in writing that they would accept a 6m strip (3m either side). In this strip, you can't build anything. Example wording from the deed attached for your reference. Looks like you would probably be with Scottish Water, and for an 18" (450mm) main, you'd be looking at 6m either side, 12m strip in total - see https://www.scottishwater.co.uk/-/media/ScottishWater/Document-Hub/Business-and-Developers/Connecting-to-our-network/All-connections-information/190718AssetPolicyStandardWaterMainsProtectionDistanceFeb16.pdf?utm_source=chatgpt.com

Quick update. The LPA Statement of Case was quite poor - they even misrepresented my "brownfield" status by saying residential gardens are excluded according to the NPPF, but only residential gardens in urban areas are excluded, and we aren't in an urban area. You would think professional planners in Local Authorities would know these things, but apparently not... I have provided a robust response to the points they make in my Final Comments, and also found several appeals that agree with my position that I should not be required to pay an affordable housing contribution, which was fantastic. One particular appeal directly references the points I made in both my application and Statement of Case, so I have included that as a reference. Should save me £12,797 if the appeal is allowed! Now we just wait. Current determination timings are 27 weeks (median) and 29 weeks (mean). From our start date, that would be 21st October or 4th November. Fingers crossed it is earlier.

@Roger440 I see from another thread that you had been quoted for a non-residential connection for three-phase instead of residential. Just popping that note in this thread for any future readers. I assume your new quote is more to your liking? 😉

I think there is a nuance here, a little like the digger and driver scenario. If Electrician 1 does a design for you, but electrician 2 installs it, only the second electrician's services are zero-rated. If Electrician 1 does a design and the installation for you (under a single contract), my understanding is that the whole amount can be zero-rated - i.e. design and build, supply and fit...

When I submitted my previous appeal, it took 178 days for it to be deemed valid and to get a start date. For my current appeal, it took 11 days, so at least the time taken to get to the start seems to be much quicker, even if the statistics still show the same sort of determination timings. My previous appeal start date to site inspection was 127 days, and then the decision came 32 days after that. We were never told who the Inspector was and only found out when the appeal was dismissed, and we were sent the paperwork. If you're in a queue waiting for an Inspector to become available, then I assume all appeals that don't have an Inspector allocated will be waiting similar times. Whether you get the jump the queue if you need a reallocation, I doubt anyone will know.

I note in another topic that Buildhub have enabled blogging for you @Great_scot_selfbuild so you should see the option now.

Starting a Blog Many members choose to record their project by using the forum’s blog facility. A blog is a great way of recording your progress and sharing it with others. The blog functionality can be enabled via a request using the Contact Us link at the bottom of the forum. Once the functionality has been enabled you will have the ability to ‘Create Blog’ from within your user profile.