garrymartin

So you had an actual refusal, not just an email or similar saying they were minded to refuse it, and then they've reconsidered and now approved the application? Didn't even know they were allowed to do that once an application had been refused. Regardless, glad it's worked out for you of course.

They're not a replacement for the backbox or dry-lining box - they go over the top to make plastering easier and, when then cut out, the hole left much cleaner. See https://www.beadmaster.co.uk/ and you'll quickly get the idea. £1.50ish for a single gang and £2.20ish for a double with further discounts in bulk. They also do a downlight version now.

If the *internal* floor area is less than or equal to 15m2, even within 1m of the boundary, the "substantially non-combustible materials" element does not apply.

In my research notes, I have a comment that Nordan are not highly rated - @Kelvin and @saveasteading have them and may be able to provide their views. They are on my "B" list of companies, as are Nordvest but I have no notes or commentary on Nordvest. Rationel are on my "A" list but I would expect them to cost slightly more. Have you looked at Norrsken (also on my "A" list - made by Viking Windows)? @Thorfun @Russell griffiths @Tosh and @MikeSharp01 have them and might provide some opinions.

Amazing property. Recorded the programme whilst on holiday and watched it on our return. Well done. Can I ask, is it wet underfloor heating throughout using the ASHP? If so, what is your first-floor build-up?

18 mph apparently.

No AI's were harmed during this answer... 😉

I'm guessing from a quick look on Insta that it's because it was a Paragraph 79 build.

If the plywood is screwed to the trusses, then my guess would be someone thought it would be sufficient to provide a storage platform. Then they started to worry about it coming down on anything stored in the garage and so added the two joists and the joist hangers as an afterthought. Any weight on the plywood would likely just pop any screws put into it so the joists just add a little bit of extra help to stop that happening. Only two screws in them though... 🤣

I believe RC2 is only applicable to windows. For doors, my understanding is that it needs to be RC3. https://georgebarnsdale.co.uk/blog/what-do-we-mean-by-secure-windows-and-doors/

As a self-builder, you're exempt from the legislation that requires at least 10% BNG. In my area there is still a policy requirement to leave conditions no worse. This, by definition, implies "at least some biodiversity gain" so I don't think it is an unusual condition. Just be careful about how they will want it measured and proved in order to discharge the condition.

Not strictly true... NPPF Paragraph 38 "**38.** Local planning authorities should approach decisions on proposed development in a positive and creative way. They should use the full range of planning tools available, including brownfield registers and permission in principle, and work proactively with applicants to secure developments that will improve the economic, social and environmental conditions of the area. Decision-makers at every level should seek to approve applications for sustainable development where possible."

If I can provide any photos of my install or anything that might be useful for you, just let me know.

I have a WB Greenstar 30CDi Classic System boiler. If it's the integral diverter kit you are looking at, it needs to be fitted before the boiler is fixed to the wall so you need to take that into account. Download the instruction manual for the diverter and it will show you what's involved in fitting it.

No. Doors typically have a solid lipping on the sides, top, and bottom. The thickness of the lipping generally depends on the quality of the door - my XL Joinery doors have 20mm solid oak lippings. The hinges you mention would screw into the solid oak lipping as per the diagram below.

I can 100% recommend XL Joinery for internal doors. Fantastic quality and prices available from distributors are generally very competitive considering the quality. I replaced all our internal doors with Suffolk Oak from Travis Perkins, including FD30 doors.

Be careful here; you must still complete the CIL forms. Sometimes, your approval might be *because* it is a self-build. It's common, for example, when the LPA has not provisioned sufficient self-build plots to meet the demand on Part 1 of their Register and so the "tilted balance" can be argued and applied. With CIL, even if you've filled in the forms, you can still sell the property right away and just pay the CIL charges. What your LPA is probably looking for is a Section 106 agreement to secure it as a self-build if that is the reason for the "balance" tipping your way in relation to approval. My local LPA seems to have a standard Section 106 document drafted by their legal department to cover this, and also for Affordable Housing Contributions. Some mention a requirement for the person to also be on the self-build register, but some don't. Either way, it's very easy to apply to be on the register. I've attached an example. Apr_06_Ridgers(1).pdf

Fits inside a 60mm Euro box, but no idea why they are so expensive.

If you want a really slick, integrated solution, you could look at something like https://displine.uk/products/displine-poe-converter-22w But if you're happy to have an adapter in the wall, you could use something as simple as this https://www.amazon.co.uk/DSLRKIT-Active-Splitter-Female-802-3af/dp/B073P7J1KR/ with an appropriate cable of your choice. It doesn't need to be a higher-powered quick charge (PD or similar) as your tablet will likely be permanently connected. If you're trying to do something without spending a fortune, and have or know someone with a 3D printer, there are also lots of 3D models for tablet wall holders on various sites.

Gotcha. Let me find something appropriate

Wrong technology. That won't work to provide power I'm afraid. @markharro Can I ask what it's to be used for? That might help narrow down the right solution/technology.

Only time and the decisions you make will tell 😉 I always keep a really long CAT6 cable around for exactly this type of testing. 1. Re-terminate connectors. If still the same issue... 2. Buy a long cable. If the issue has gone, then the *cable* in your walls is likely damaged and you'll potentially need to replace it. If the issue is still there, it's not the cable... If you get to the point where you have determined it is damage to the cable and it is difficult to replace it, then I'd be looking at where I could get a cable to for a better wireless access point - perhaps a ceiling-mounted one.

+1 - almost certainly the issue unless the cable has been damaged in some way. Assuming everything else is constant except the cable, then logic says it has to be the cable. Just make sure everything else is constant and you're not connecting to different ports. Albeit unlikely nowadays, older routers used to have a mix of 100mbps and 1000mbps ports. For your sanity, the other option is to buy a long cable from Amazon/eBay and test with that.

Most of the people who discuss a single ground-floor UFH zone will combine that with electric underfloor heating or electric towel rails (or both) in first floor en-suites and bathrooms, and perhaps fan coils in the first-floor bedrooms.

I can't help with a location where you can see the floor buildups, but I'm keen to understand more about the loving area. I've not got one of those in our plans and feel I may be missing out... 😉