daiking

If it is more than 15sq m then building regs may apply, not just a planning concern. Think this is current for England https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/43/outbuildings/2 I am working on the basis. However I have only just realised that I have 13sq m floor area the roof is significantly bigger. Says nothing in the regs about roof area ??

Ok, “free” is perhaps confusing. It is the felt the cabin manufacturer provides. At the time there was no discount if you upgraded to epdm, hence I took the get now for no cost and will buy epdm in the future (and fit an OSB deck for that) I’m saying this roof is a bit flat but the fall is only 1:120! What’s that? 4.8 degrees? ( tan A = 1/120, so A = tan-1 (1/120) ) it falls 40mm in height over the 4800mm front to back. In a proper installation this felt does have a proper under layer but nothing like that is provided. It’s just felt and you stick it on till it fails. There are 6 rolls, 40+ sq m, for a 23sq m roof so there is plenty to overlap but I wouldn’t double this stuff up, it’s so thick.

I’d be quite happy to get a tin of cold felt adhesive and use that - I’ve run out after doing the playhouse and shed many times. The felt is a wierd one it’s some IKO stuff you use to make the valleys and hip things when you use shingles. Looks/feels very different to the shed felt they do. I just don’t want to stick it to the insulation. “iko armour valley” https://www.iko.be/sites/default/files/valleys uk.pdf

What joist centres have people used? I’ve seen 300mm recommended for some boards but obvs 400mm would be easier - although 450mm would have been ideal for my overall sizing but that’s too far for this generic hollow decking

The detail on this is a bit sketchy. You put your sheet insulation on top of the roof boards and then your roof material on top of that and fix through. Simples. The log cabin roof is 18mm tongue and groove timber planks, my insulation is 50mm PIR and my roof material (first time round) is some thick felt and I don’t have anything for a top wooden deck on the insulation. the cabin is a modern design, the roof is very flat with a tall fascia surrounding it. So, can I get away with fixing the felt to the wood with nails on the side overhangs but across the top of the roof just gluing the joints of the felt overlap with a tube roof/gutter seal and not attached to the insulation? To stop the felt from lifting (unlikely) I could lay battens over the felt, secured to the inside of the fascia structure. Its just that the roof felt was free with the cabin and I only intend to put a proper epdm roof on it in a few years when I shall sort it all properly, probably an OSB deck to fix through the PIR and glue the epdm to. (then there’s the wierd fascia board internal timber detail that gets in the way of the insulation that I need to work around)

How about the other CCJs could relate to previous sub-standard work? The guardian are only publishing the parking ticket as that has no bearing on any claim.

Just remember that if your extractor has the controls at the top then don’t put it too high either.

I'm not too fussed now, although the pigeons have bombed it, leaving holes to fill later. Its warm and sunny here so I've just watered it and pulled over a plastic sheet thats almost as big as the slab, will take it off tonight.

The ones I’ve seen like that have a hidden slot and a particular hidden edge fixing. At the moment I’m more concerned that I think I need 60 off 3.6m 6x2s which is £1050 ? from my new preferred merchant. can I use 4x2s? ?

For the floor, I had anticipated floating p5 chipboard on 25mm eps. Not sure I fancy that after the experience of the eps for the blinding. Will probably use some timber bearers. already had 18mm flooring delivered, 22mm might have been ok direct on the eps ?‍♂️

With the ‘extra’ concrete, I dig out the back and dropped it in against the back of the blocks. Not wildly impressed by our tamping skills but the forced labour wasn’t speaking to me. I am pretty sure it is not my fault but everything is certainly not fine. So it’s as good as we’re going to get ?

Problem solved

I wouldn’t go that far and I’m quite happy to pay a reasonable price.

Basic premise is here: not intending to hard wire a hot tub. house CU was installed in 2015, not metal cased. conduit in place for swa cable between house and cabin.

Lol, just been quoted £2,000 to wire it up. And I’m supplying the light fittings and Quinetic receivers.

Early finish tonight

Got this far. Sub base wasn’t exactly level so the thin jablite is not sitting unless you crunch it down onto the stone. So the main layer is a bit up and down wobbly in places. I’m a bit high as well, probably only 75-80mm in free height left for the slab. Hopefully thicker in places where the jablite bends a bit. need to go out and put the DPM over it and backfill the trench so my blocks don’t fall over

I should remember the old adage that no plan survives contact with your family.

Just had 45sq m of generic composite decking delivered £40/m2 including fixing clips. Planned the deck size around multiples/fractions of the 3.6m board lengths. Joints will be fine if joists are doubled up so lots of planning to minimise extra work. Still no tidy edge feature. The proper bullnose board seems out of stock everywhere.

I’ve seen aluminium joists but unsure of how to adequately frame it. Probably going to stick to timber with lashings of blackjack bitumen paint for a ground level deck.

I’ve been out till half 10 tonight (only started at half 4). Nearly there, standards dropped significantly but should be ok for the role. Concrete booked for Wednesday afternoon, hence the need to get done today. Will get up early to finish off 2 blocks. worried about them being set before the concrete pour. tomorrow night I’ll be putting the eps insulation down and membrane + significant backfill out side the blocks to keep them in place. 2 sides are pretty trenchy so I will slide to bricks in to prop them off the solid ground. The 2 more open sides will be banked up with a few planks and soil. I’m sure the instructions I’m following say blind the sub base with a 25mm layer of jablite. This is what I’m doing as there’s no time to get sand delivered now. Was just going to put the DPM above the jablite. But have to buy a massive amount so could put it under the main jablite layer as well as on top but don’t see the point unless anyone can enlighten me.

Not usually although she did put a shift in on Wednesday. She was having a day off after cooking non stop for 2 days. I’ll get a photo of the fence she painted on Wednesday though ?

Still persevering with the blocks but held up by rain today. Managed one side just by laser marking one block at a time. Plenty more to do. Also need a mate as only mixing tiny amounts of mortar by hand and stopping to reload takes time.