gaz_moose

Back when it was cheap as chips i just used to leave it on low all day. I think if i did that now id be forced to just eat tap water all winter. With this current Wiser setup i was just concerned with it sat ticking over at high 30's and the radiators being luke warm, As when the heating turns off im then left with cold rads and a cooling down house, Hence why i asked if there was a way to make it cruise along at a higher temp that still falls within the condensing boundaries. I will watch to see what it does when the weather turns colder. Maybe look into buying a Dehumidifier Mr Steamy Tea. Just watch for the operating temperatures as some only work well above 20 degrees.

it does heat the house to a warm temperature. during the week its on a schedule, 2 hours in the morning then 4 hours in the evening. the house is 40 years old but the whole heating system is 3 years old. I guess its just alien to me having the boiler bumbling along giving me luke warm radiators. Guess i am just used to the old method of it producing radiators hot enough to melt a Nazi's face off, then the boiler clicking off and giving me rads that slowly cool down keeping the room warm. I had storage heaters once before and i was getting flashbacks of lukewarm heat sources. My energy consumption seems the same as it was the start of the year with me just turning it on and off when i felt cold/hot which is what has me worried as outside temps in january/febuary are colder.

I have the type 1 kit, With the wireless thermostat and controller. I don't have any of their TRV's fitted. The thermostat is upstairs in the box room/office. I have the opentherm wired into the boiler and it seems to be working fine apart from the low temps. Ive the APP and that is working too. I've not tried ECO mode as i wasn't sure what it did.

The weather has been quite mild at 15 degrees so I've had it setup to be 19 degrees in the morning and evening when im Home and just off during the day time. What ive noticed is when it switches on and ramps up the water temp is 55 and when its sat just cruising (condensing mode?) its 38 degree. This is looking at the water temps on the boiler display panel , The radiators only ever get warm and not hot, My old 'Dumb' controller had it heating at 65 which saw the radiators pumping out heat. Is there a way to increase these temps? As i think when it actually gets cold i will be buggered.

Id over specked my radiators as I've a mixture of those fashionable tall radiators that are a bit rubbish and modern radiators that cool down quickly. My old control unit didn't have a universal back plate. I got it all wired in this morning. I spent ages looking at all the wiring diagrams and instructions prior to starting and got myself all confused, then I actually looked at it and figured it out instantly. Now i just need to dial in some killer settings so i can save tonnes of money 🤣

Blimey, Ive not even taken mine out the box and i was the one who needed it the most. Center RF Wireless 7-Day 5/2 Day Programmable Room Thermostat White | eBay UK this is my current one that needs to go in the bin 😁 I don't have nice wiring coming out of recessed boxes, i have surface mounted with trunking that goes into the side of the unit (The shame of it), On the 'universal mounting plates' it looks like i can knock the bottom out and feed the wire in from there, Is that right? or have i got to knock up some kind of adapter? Ifound this when on my travels Drayton Wiser Room Thermostat Wall Mount by alias7113 | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Industrial Paint Supplier & Manufacturer UK - Trusted Nationally | BC Paints Black country paints, 2 part floor paint was what was recommended to me when i did my garage floor. It withstands trolly jacks etc.. Id buy some cheap carpet or lino by the roll and do the whole house in the same stuff. With lino I've stuck it down with just spray glue around the edges of the concrete floor the double sided tape over the glue once its gone off. Id be more inclined to use lino as i wouldn't have to mess around with gripper rods and stretchers.

My neighbour always uses bleach on his.

I bought the drayton wiser one as suggested. The magic pixies might be responsible for installing it as its illegal for a non gas safe engineer to remove the cover or something like that.

sounds like we share the same kind of luck.

I didn't see the point in the TRV's, who actually goes round adjusting them all the time?. Seems you lads are swaying me to get a Wiser unit.

I read somewhere that tado were charging a subscription for their advanced features but i only need the basic stuff which is free. I did look at that one on screwfix but its out of stock round here. how do you find yours? for easy of use/ installation etc..

Brilliant, Thank you for your help.

a baxi 800, Which google suggests is opentherm compatible. It has a wire coming out that goes to the receiver of the wireless thermostat. i assume i just wire the receiver of the new thermostat to that?

Ive only just started using the heating again and kinda forgot that this thermostat was playing up which is why i was just turning it on and off. I do need a new wireless thermostat though as this one randomly switches its self off. I set the time at 10:00 last night and it now thinks its 5:35am when its actually 9:35 So into the bin it will go. I was looking at the Tado X

The brick facia boards are probably why the labour charges went up.

Can someone recommend me a smart thermostat that's easy to use and doesn't incur a subscription fee etc.. I have a 3 bed house with a combi boiler with all the radiators on 1 circuit for upstairs/downstairs controlled by TRV's. My current Plumbase wireless thermostat is starting to play up so its time to upgrade. Id like something that i can control via an app or similar where i can turn the heating on when im out and about so its warm for when i get home. Im the only one who lives here full time and my time at home varies from day to day so i just turn the heating on when i want it on and never use a timer. I know nothing on this subject and some of you guys seem to have a PHD in it 😁 so i figured you might help to steer me down the right pathway.

its 60 bricks per square meter of single skin wall. 10 blocks per square meter of single skin wall. you just need to ask the roofer to build you a roof and not worry about beam thickness etc.. as that's what your paying him for. it would be worth asking the bricky about bricks/blocks as they will get a deal at the suppliers.

ive only done 2 epdm roofs so am far from an expert. it looks like your epdm is set to somehow go over the top of the edge trim. with the plastic stuff the edge trim goes on last then you pull the epdm downwards and trim it with a stanley knife. theres loads of videos on it by a youtube guy called oakwood garden rooms, thats how i learned it.

as mad as it sounds, I quite like the velcro idea.

those fillet strip details look fiddly. the plastic kurb edge trim just gets nailed on with poly top nails and looks kind of naff. I guess you could nail it along the top edge so you dont see the fixings.

I've put this little kitchen in and it has freestanding fridge and freezer to go under the counter. i was going to put an end panel on the side of the drawer base unit then and end panel between the appliances. This leaves me with about a 50mm gap between the last unit and the wall, My plan is to scribe an infill panel but im stuck on how to fix it. If it was a cupboard i would fix the infill to that. I obviously need to fix it to the wall but id like it to go in after the appliances to give me some wiggle room when sliding them in. Hafele Drawer & Panel Connectors Cream White 10 Pack - Screwfix I've seen these fixing that look like they are what i need but are they a fit and never come apart setup? As id like to make things a bit easier when taking the appliances back out again etc..

if you waterproof them and water does get in then how is that water going to get back out? I waterproofed some fence panels with some waterproofer from screwfix, the water just beads off it like a waxed car. some areas of concrete fence posts got sprayed in the same stuff and would repell the water. (i should really have a look to see how it is holding up when its next raining but not minging) I did read in the reviews that some mad man used it on a brick wall with good results.

i drive a few Citroen Ami's regularly and i would never recommend to buy one to use as an actual car.

i bought a 'rollerdoor' one off ebay. the cheaper ones with the shorter slats are thinner and less insulated/ more flimsy than the taller/thicker slats. i installed it on my own in a few hours. id got quotes from 2 local places to install near identical items and i think they wanted about 2 grand more than i paid for the door only. NODS one looks better as it has those white guide wheels in the top corners whereas mine just has the top bit of frame bent into a curve (which i had to bend to adjust as the door was catching the top box inner cover). id just buy it and fit it yourself unless you cant be bothered. they are really easy to do.