George

I can't see a way to get a lintel where it needs to be without destabilising the arch in the process. Needle beams and props I think.

There's a reasonable chance there's an arched lintel or tension strap in place. I should get a complete understanding of the existing structure first, that will probably need some intrusive investigations and a visit from a SE (or do you have construction drawings?). I concur with there's a potential can of worms that needs to be dodged. I'd then have detailed discussion with a window supplier. Potentially they could support a aluminium infill panel or glazed infill. The extra cost of this would be somewhat offset by not messing with lintels. Simple fix is to remove the arch and put in a flat lintel but it would be lost a nice feature.

The slab is designed to allow for any settlement that might occur in the subbase. However I've got some ideas based on the 'traditional' no concrete foundation (redeveloped by Frank Lloyd Wright) which I'll sketch up when I'm on my computer.

Although there's significant overlap between manufacturers' products, each manufacture could have slightly different criteria for the use of each lintel. So really you should be checking what you need for each particular use case.

Depends on how on the ball the Lead Local Flood Authority is but you might need to attenuate the outflow with a orifice chamber or hydro brake. Although usually just calling the ditch a 'swale' and the drain a 'overflow measure' will do the trick.

Resin anchors should into the middle of the brick. Mortar can have variable strength and so you might not get the full rated capacity.

Sleeved resin anchors is best for perforated bricks but you can get away with non-sleeved for those. I'd just pay the extra few quid for the sleeve. Agree normal plug and screw is fine for the wall starters. They aren't (supposed) to be subjected to any significant load. Use the sliding type on a rail.

You will always get some amount of settlement - the soil under the extension wasn't under (much) load before it was built and when you subject anything to load you will get some level of movement or settlement. Unless it's founded onto rock. This should be fairly consistent over the footprint unless there are differing soil conditions or high point loads. The detail should have been a flexible sealant rather than mortar. However, if the crack is the same width all the way up and there isn't any other sign of distress I would not be concerned. Once the initial settlement has occurred you should be ok to rake back the cracked mortar and repoint.

I should add, builders always say it's a big beam. They are designed on deflection, not strength. This is particularly important for vaulted roofs because deflection at the ridge manifests as an outward thrust at the wall plate, which is particularly not good for masonry.

Don't need to protect roof structural elements in normal two storey house. Beam span is quite large so agree unless you put in a deeper beam then it is about right. I note it isn't a simple pitched roof, there is a flat section so something else is going on which might explain the size. They've also allowed for a splice which may help installation. Glulam is an option but end up being pretty big over 6m or so.

If you can't take off the nut and remove then cut the threaded bar. Failing that, you will probably need to cut the actual blocks and remove them..if you're rendering over a bit of patched up blockwork doesn't matter.

You've shown area loads but not the UDL on the beam itself. Has that been calculated?

I think installing to manufacturers requirements would be equivalent for most of the MCS. Can't see a way around the noise without undertaking a site noise assessment and finding some standard to compare it to.

I definitely ended up with an oversized ASHP. Works fine but obviously affects running costs. However as I have 100% RHI so I'm not too bothered but when that is up I may swap it out for a much smaller system and give the 16kW one to my parents. I found the MVHR made a decent difference as well.

Presumably at -2C it wouldn't be running full power. They can modulate output as well as reducing running time.

Tried Catnic specials? https://catnic.com/products/lintels/special-lintels Else get a steel fabricator to make one.

It depends on what the beam / lintel is. A small lintel means the post is doing some work. But if the beam is capable of spanning the gap then the post won't be doing very much.

I would err on the side of caution and say yes, they are load bearing.

I would approach with these options as required. First get the drains checked. They are a likely culprit and a repair/replacement should reduce effects on the soil. The issues are often linked because tree roots can ruin drains, but I've seen many times a tree isn't causing problems for a long period of time then suddenly it does - this to me indicates the tree has damaged drainage rather than the tree suddenly causing dramatic volume change, even if the weather is unusually dry/wet (this opinion was actually proposed by a correspondent in a recent issue of he IStructE magazine...). Secondly, if the drains are fine and the cracks aren't causing critical damage you could consider installing a root barrier. This will lessen the effect the roots can have on the subsoil supporting the structure. They generally aren't used because they're not infallible, especially for the design life of a habitable structure, but for a garage and to protect a valuable tree it is a good option. Lastly, or in combination, crown reduction can reduce the water demand. This creates ongoing maintenance but done right can keep a tree healthy for longer. Indeed - if I think a tree does need removing I would generally recommend it ideally is done over 2 or 3 years to allow the soils to gradually adjust (although the weather is a bigger factor).

Thought some of you may find this interesting. As in the UK, there are issues in the USA with oversizing gas heating and that makes it appear that heat pumps can't cope. He went to the level of waiting for a polar vortex and using electric heaters to measure the true heat demand of his house. Although I warn you, the test is some way into the video and it's a long one.

I think the extension walls are restraining the outer leaf, with thermal expansion and contraction in the original adjacent length causing a moment couple at the corner. This has cracked the brick vertically. This is a bit like in diagram 4 https://www.nhbc.co.uk/binaries/content/assets/nhbc/tech-zone/nhbc-standards/tech-guidance/6.1/movement-joints-in-masonry-walls-.pdf Wall tie corrosion tends to exhibit horizontal cracking, as the corrosion products jack the bed joints apart.

Chemical anchor or some sort of steel anchor plate that can be cast in then bolted to the beam. It is physically possible to prop the beam insitu (250kg - about a rugby front row) but seems riskier would would get in the way of the pour. I also wonder what is it for? In masonry, you just rely on friction for holding the beams in place. I do spec a anchor bolt but that's really only for temporary stability, in the permanent condition any tie forces would be generated through the floor plate and friction. I wonder if it's a hangover detail from seismic regions.

0.5, 0.7, 1.0 & 1.2mm are the most common thicknesses. 0.7mm being mostly used. I would hazard the crenulations increase the surface area so probably 1mm thick.

25mm thick top plate! Bloomin' heck. Switch to two beams, one for each leaf. Put in a row of thermoblocks if you want but it's not a major cold bridge so long as you can get 50mm PIR around it.

Out of almost all the trades I tend to find groundworkers some of the best. I think it doesn't attract cowboys - it's blokes who like diggers and digging.