NandM

I think just laziness on my part! I'll bury it and keep the pipe overground for now as per the blue line.

I wasn't planning to bury the mdpe underground to start as I have a run of around 65m to the front garden. Current temporary plan is to follow the hedge up the garden and then through the back of the garage and into the main inspection chamber at the front of the house. Once we have the new sewers put in as part of the house extension, I could route underground like the blue line and have the mdpe terminate into a 110mm pipe underground.....and bury the station. But I need everything working before the demolition starts.

Above ground sewage stations seem to come at a premium, so I'm wondering if I can use a below ground one above, or even partially underground to save on the digging. The bathroom I'm adding to the garden room is currently about 30cm above ground level - I could probably raise this another 10-15cm internally. I've seen some of the underground stations that have the inlet very close to the bottom - so if I have the drop, then what's stopping me from using one of these above ground? e.g. clickity and click

I had my first trader (bricky) over yesterday and he mentioned there may be difficulty in getting an inspection chamber in place because of the available space. Between the outside wall and the neighbours wall will be our alley way of approx 850mm width. I've had a look through Document H and couldn't find anything specifically about IC and how close they can be to a wall. I was also looking at Diagram 8 and for clarity, as the distance of the new drainage will be less than 1m from the footing, how much lower does the new drainage than the footing? This also seems contradict some posting I've seen that say the footing should at least go to the lowest part of the drain pipe.

That's brilliant - thank you!

According to this, I'll need two rodding points, one in the loft and one on ground floor.

@ToughButterCup - what about treslous? So I've moved the I/C's - but I'm wondering if it would be possible for one water drain for the ground floor, from the kitchen to the basin in the WC.

@johnhenstock83 - did you managed to find the answer to this?

For our extension work, I've designed it so all the bathrooms are above one another and on the same side, to help simply the drainage. With regard to the toilets - what's the recommendation within having multiple toilets into one waste pipe? Something to avoid...or should be fine? The drains on the outside will be in our alley way, but I'm really unsure about how many inspection chambers and rodding points. At the end of the front garden there is currently a fairly large inspection chamber - it would be great if I could get rid of this in the new design so I can make better use of the drive.

My plans have dragged on a bit...but I'm hopeful to start this Spring. I've received the SE drawings for extension we have planned and have a query about the beam design for the ground floor. The current design is single beams with a plate as required. The left hand beam will support the original cavity walls, which have a 50mm cavity, and a bedroom upstairs. The beam on the right will support a new wall that will go all two floors up to form the wall for the dormer. This will have a 200mm cavity. Just thinking about making the build easier and minimising cold bridging - would it be better to have two single beams, especially for the one on the right?

3 core confirmed (blue, green and yellow). Looking at the TCL calc, the cable should be fine for what I have planned. This is helpful as I can buy a perm new induction hob, rather than get something temp and ebay it later.

From memory it was three core, but will check tomorrow. It's partly fixed along a brick wall and then goes down under a 100mm slab for about a meter, before popping up in the greenhouse. In the greenhouse I've wired it up into an IP66 junction box and from there into a switched RCD socket. At the house end, it's just connected via a junction box to an old extension lead I had - and this is plugged into a socket when needed....but the bodge at both ends will be fixed by a someone who knows what they are doing. I'll check out the links - thank you.

As part of my prep for the main extension project next year, I've decided to upgrade some outbuildings to use for temp accommodation. We currently have a 10mm armoured cable (19mm OD) from the garage to the greenhouse that I was using to power some fans. At the garage end I've just converted the armoured cable to an extension lead as a temp fix. I now plan to use some of the greenhouse (4m x 4m space) as a kitchen/utility room as the house will be unliveable and would like to understand what my options are re hot water and appliances. The UVC that we currently have will be disconnected, so I'm thinking about sticking it in the greenhouse and running it off the mains at night. I also plan to have the dishwasher, washing machine and tumble dryer all connected in the greenhouse as well. And finally, a hob and mini-oven (or one that runs of 13amp plug). At the end of the garden, approx 60m from the house and 35m from the greenhouse will be another building that will have an area to watch TV etc. and a non-electric shower (how water from UVC in greenhouse) and a saniflo toilet. We will also have one electric heater and a bunch of lights. There is an armoured power lead here also, but looks too small for the distance from house...I haven't investigated the size, but I the OD looks to be around 10mm. I'm thinking about a new cable from the greenhouse to this building. The greenhouse has the highest power requirement with the current design, but what I'd like to know is what level of power would be possible without changing to a larger cable (as this is temp for 6-9 months)...and with a sparky connecting it up correctly at the house end. Would I need to ditch electric hob and oven and go LPG instead? Likewise with UVC?

I have a similar conundrum and will most likely do as @torre....although I'm also contemplating on removing the final two steps and 90 turn to have the staircase face a different direction.

Oooh - can you share details of who gave you the third quote? The best I've had is £2.5K for 28m3.

That's a good point!

I've raised the question with our council planning officer and will report back.

Agreed - i've seen some simple setups using a compressor and vacuum gun that also works really quickly. I think you could bodge together one of these vacuum guns with a paint spray machine for the pva and have both hooked up into one outlet.

I had another quote at £4.9K and just as I was about to give up on using an installer, I had an Ecobead Platinum approved installer quote me £2.4K. I haven't thought about warranty - would this be applicable to an extension? I have found someone selling almost 20m3 (I need 28m3) of grey beads for just under £300, but delivery doubles that to £600. If I add to that a half-decent setup for the installation, then financially I'm looking at under a grand to do two-thirds of what I need. Which made a lot of sense with the previous quotes I had, but still tempting with the lower quote....plus storage would be a nightmare.

So I've had around three quotes so far for blown-in EPS (150sqm of wall @ 200mm cavity) and they are all within the £4K - £4.5K range...this is much more than I thought it would be given some of the historic quotes on this forums (2021/2022). Which brings me to the question of using non-"branded"/BBA/KIWA certified EPS beads and going down the DIY route as per the other thread. Would there be any push back from building control if I was to use beads without a certificate?

@jayc89 - how did you end up using and how much did it cost in the end?

I've just had an email from warmcell also advising not to use it. So EPS it is then

After reading the DIY blown-in EPS beads thread, I started looking into DIY blown-in cellulose. I was/am planning to use it for the cavity walls and also flat/pitches roofs....but: 1) I've had a very helpful chap (Jasper) over at X-Floc tell me that cellulose is not suitable for brick/block cavity as "There is too much of a risk of interstitial condensation and risk of water penetration from the outer layer." When I asked for more information, he said " When it is a timber frame there is always a ventilated void on the outside before the brickwork or indeed any other rainscreen layer. Also, the frame itself has a vapour control level on the internal side at least 5x higher than the external side which helps prevent the interstitial condensation risk. The other equally risky factor for a fully filled brick and block cavity is that external brickwork can leak, water gets through mortar cracks or porous bricks into the insulation layer. Worst case this causes degradation to the insulation and dampness internally or just diminishing the insulation performance if it is wet." 2) I also read the FAQ in the Thermofloc website, which again doesn't recommend using cellulose for brick/block cavity (last FAQ in the list) I know forum members here have used it in a timber frame - but has anyone used cellulose in brick/block? Does the reasoning from Jasper make sense and would it be less riskier with EPS beads?

I've been looking into DIY blown-in cellulose and have had a quote from Markham Sheffield to hire a Turbisol 56/2 for £225ex vat. I've asked about additional accessories...but the price for the machine seems quite good.

For now, I've registered here: https://www.alertr.co.uk/account/profile Not sure how well it works or whether it'll just be a spam bot....