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I've tried and an e14 bulb doesn't fit. There are some cheap e12 to e14 adaptors, but they are pretty ugly and will impact what was quite an expensive light fitting. Options are to either rewire the fitting and hope i can squeeze in a bigger e14 bulb holder or to try and find a e12 to GU adaptor and cage, something like this but in an e12 size:

I measured the diameter of the screw base and it is 12mm. Does that correspond to an E12 bulb? Cannot seem to find it anywhere in something with a frosted golf ball glass or similar. It seems only E14 are available here!

I have a problem. Wasn’t banking on the light bulbs the fitting is designed for being a funny American size. This is what came with the fitting: anybody know what the UK equivalent of a G16.5 bulb is? Been googling it for a while and they appear to be conflicting answers.

Why, what did the salt do?

What stone do you recommend for the steps then? I need something fairly light coloured, a light grey or off white, that isn't too expensive and has good slip resistance. No, the driveway is completely granite and completely impermeable. I was also confused by this, but having looked up the local requirements it seems my council only "recommends" that it is permeable. The reason for this, i suspect, is that the entire borough sits on London clay which is notoriously impermeable to water, so if I were to have a permeable driveway, all that would happen is the water would drain down through the cobblestones and then sit somewhere on top of the hardcore underneath, as below that is dense clay which just does not let water through. I consulted a RICS surveyor about this and he recommended making sure I have sufficient drainage channels both at the top of the driveway and at the bottom, so we've gone for an aco drain channel top and bottom as well as a french drain at the bottom. Actually, it's worse than a 1/10 slope. A 1/10 slope, if I understand you correctly is that for every run of 10m there is a fall of 1m. The inverse tangent of 0.1 is about 5.7° and my slope is closer to 10°. Not much I can do about that. Nice entrance!

Yeah, issue is that my setts will be laid on a 10 deg slope. We will have a separate stone staircase, probably made of sandstone, for accessing main door of house from street, but to get to and from the car will require traversing the inclined gravel. Interestingly, the attached document from Westminister council says they have "excellent" slip resistance. It is absurd. We get a 16% discount through a friend, but it still works out crazy expensive. I will look elsewhere!

okay, but was it a smooth surfaced granite you slipped on or a tumbled / riven surface?

hmmm... what kind of granite was it? The one we're looking at is either this expensive one which has the following on its data sheet: Slip Resistance 89 Dry / 79 Wet Or this one which has a cropped surface but no data sheet. Obviously don't want to slip in the rain, but the impression I got from both suppliers is that the rough edge ensures they are not slippery. Am i mistaken? Sorry to hear about your hip and Pentax. Did the pentax sustain any damage? As K-5 owner, I have been surprised how hardy they are. I dropped a wide angle lens on a hard airport floor once and nothing (discernible) happened to it.

We are laying a patio out of rough edge granite setts (or cobblestones). One supplier, London Stone, is quite expensive and has also recommended their pre-sealing service where they seal all faces of the granite sett with Dry Treat Stain Proof so that they are delivered ready sealed. Their marketing blurb says: "Sealing stone prior to installation will help to protect against efflorescence (a white ‘bloom’ which appears on the surface of the stone after installation as a result of salts from the bedding layer travelling through the stone to the surface). Sealing prior to installation will not completely eradicate the possibility of efflorescence occurring, however it will reduce the risk significantly in comparison to unsealed stone." Another supplier, has said that they don't pre-seal and that sealing all faces is also not required. Instead, they recommend installing the setts and then sealing just the exposed face with a product called "Wet and Forget". This is significantly cheaper than Dry Treat Stain Proof, and the supplier is also quite a bit cheaper. What have people on the forum who have laid granite outdoors done about sealing? Do you do it before or after installation? And how do you stop weed growth? Is it simply a case of laying a geotextile membrane between the hardcore and the sand and cement bed for the granite?

Good advice. It’s actually not that slippery, so at least for the time being we aren’t going to do anything.

Incredible, thank you!

I'm not too bothered if it is rocker or toggle. I just need it to be screwless, architrave, retractive one way, matt black and preferably with rounded edges.

Thanks @Temp. This one looks like it could work. When it says it needs to go onto panel mount. Which mounts are compatible?

And there I was thinking you guys could out-Google me. But you can’t. You are all just as bad (or just as good) at using Google as I am.

I don't think there is a difference. Retractive switches come in two types, a one way or a two way. I need a one way, which is in off mode by default and can be pressed momentarily to on, but retracts to off as soon as depressed. A two way is in off, but can be pressed on in either of two directions. A two way is what you would use for a blind for example. Had a look at the Farnel website. It's impenetrable.

As far as I can tell, I would need to get a retractive module from the MK Electric Grid Plus Grid System and then fit it in a front plate. Although they do black modules, their front plates are only white or silver and not in architrave size: https://www.discount-electrical.co.uk/section.php/110463/1/mk-electric-grid-plus-grid-system

very funny, but not sure SWMBO will like it.

I'm trying to find light switch that meets the following requirements: matt black screwless curved corners architrave size retractive toggle switch. It can be be a dolly or rocker switch but it must be a retractive one of the on/off variety, like a door bell. Effectively, I need a matt black version of this: https://www.corston.com/products/1g-architrave-retractive-toggle-switch-bronze I've been looking for 45 minutes and still can't find one, but I know that @SteamyTea, @Onoff, @PeterW or someone else have much better skills than me!

Just wondering where everybody buys their LED bulbs these days? I'm looking for an online supplier of high quality dimmable LED bulbs in various sizes, all with 2700K to 3000K colour.

So SE has said it will take him 7-9 hours to design a change and wants to charge me his hourly rate. Seems excessive to me. Can a design change really take that long?

I can’t see anything wrong in the photo, but It might be that she is not happy with a couple of minor details that could be “fixed” or, more accurately, changed. Before getting all legal with her. So I would ask what her dissatisfaction is based on specifically.

thanks. I think that at this rate the only person who will sell my house is my trustee in bankruptcy!

Thanks @Gus Potter. I think what you are saying is that this is all a very deliberate design that can’t be changed? At least not easily!

I think you'd really struggle to find a unit big enough for your house that cost less than £2400. You want to oversize the unit so that you can run it really low. Add all the ducting and some nice looking lindab airy valves, booster switches and humidity sensor and you're going to getting close to £4k in materials. If you design and install it yourselve you could save a few thousand, though I think I'd want a professional to design it for me. Some do basic designs for free as part of their "marketing".

I didn’t know that. Is the BCO’s flow rate / Air Change requirements excessive then?