matthyde83

52a1 h.pdf 53a1 f.pdf

This is excellent thanks both. Really helps me visualise how to do it! @Iceverge few questions… What’s the outside detailing on the windows? I’d be worried about OSB being exposed? Also how do you seal cavity behind osb for damp and fire? What’s Golcar window positioning? I think I’m following the ceiling detail. So you are sealing bottom of trusses then creating a void for services, avoiding needing to take them through the seal? So why the OSB? How do you create the void dropping the ceiling that far? Good tip on sealing the top of walls where they meet external, not sure I’d have thought of that. Don’t have a detail for threshold yet and have a few of them! Front door, 2x back doors, 2x French doors and Bifolds!

Exposed soffit? I’m looking at what to do for ours. We built the separate garage already and have gone for an oak clad traditional look. The soffits we left exposed and painted with good quality black paint, 8mm ply prior to roof work and all the rafter ends. Then spent money on oak fascia’s and barge boards with galvanised gutter. I’m really pleased with it. Just now concerned how I replicate it on the 5 bed house going next to it!

I’m looking for some general advice… Due to start the main part of our build in February. I’ve had to push the architect thus far and tbh he’s not that knowledgeable on airtightness etc. So I’m working a lot out myself. Have a builder on board to shell stage then I’ll take over and work out with subbies (this is 3rd time I’ve built but not for a good few years and this is now forever family home). So far. I’ve increased cavity to 150mm and planning on blown EPS beads. 200mm floor. Have dormers, vaulted ceilings so will need warm roof detailing there but then 400mm loft roll elsewhere. Windows and doors I’m considering ply boxes as per Denby Dale ph. Everything I’m reading on here talks about the difficulty with getting airtightness. I’m probably being naive so forgive me, but my plan: Tape window/door frames to ply box, boxes to wall Membrane before boarding ceiling on 2nd floor (1st floor also?), taped to wall Walls taped to concrete floor (below insulation and screed) Airtight paint behind boxes, channels etc for 1st fix Grommets and or seal wherever wires, pipes, ducts enter the envelope Parge coat (including before fitting/inbetween joists), overlapping all taped joins Wet Plaster Decent loft hatch Anything I’m missing here??

Hi all - for various reasons I've built the separate double garage first. We're due to demolish our bungalow and begin the main build in Feb, for which I'll have site insurance. In the garage though are tools, peloton sofa etc. I have it secured and alarmed but I'm concerned about insurance. I'm assuming tools will be covered by site insurance but not sure about everything in there?? Can i insure that separately??

Maybe some conduit through the wall for the wires to pass through then seal / fill?

And exterior lighting with cables passing through the cavity?

Sorry to hijack but this is first I’ve heard of a section 80. I have planning to demolish my bungalow and replace with a 5 bed detached. Starting Feb. Do I need to file a section 80?

I’ve just purchased mine through buildsafe. I was sceptical of using a broker but they came up with a price £1000 less from buildzone than I got quoting direct with them so I purchased before anyone changed their minds…

I'm not sure how helpful but we've been on a strangely similar journey. We applied for planning to demolish a bungalow for a detached 5 bed house with an attached garage and room over a few years ago. As soon as planning was granted we go a CIL bill, claimed exemptions etc. For various reasons (plans being copyrighted and I wasn't willing to go with the package supplier) we then had to do a whole new application. This one was for a 5 bed house with a detached garage and room (salon for my other half). Again CIL bill and claimed exemptions etc. Funds reasons we decided to build the garage first so we sent in the CIL form prior to commencement and considered that commencement of development as we effectively started the whole thing by starting the garage. CIL conditions state all we need to do now is submit a form within a certain period after completion. Due to start knocking down the bungalow in Feb now. My theory was we started whole development so CIL stuff needed sorting and also meant we'd started for our 3 year limit (we're within that anyway by starting in Feb so not testing it). Question I suppose is if you never finish will the CIL ever need a completion notice....

Hi group brain - I've bene in touch with thermabead but they don't cover me in Surrey. Does anyone have recommendations??

That is an option. Obviously we lose room size, but not much. I was planning wet plaster for airtightness though so that's going to put pay to that...

Digging out deeper is definitely possible. We are demolishing a bungalow in its place. Is a sand and cement 75mm screed better than going for 50mm flowing then? Just bedrooms (and bathrooms upstairs). We're in Surrey. Standard sized windows on 4 bedrooms, both east and west facing (west to rear). Master in centre with doors to a covered balcony. Yes to MVHR. I've uploaded an upstairs floorplan. Not finalised yet. 53C.pdf

We're in Surrey, just inside M25.

Hi all - due to start on site in February and trying to make some decisions. New build in brick and block. 150mm cavity with EPS beads planned. Current floor build up from architect 150mm slab, 150mm insulation, 75mm screed. Thinking ASHP. Questions - Should I increase the insulation in the floor by 50mm and go for a flowing screed at 50mm? I’m looking at porcelain tiles for majority of downstairs. They’re likely to be 20mm though as have landscaping done and want the same. Recommended UFH supplier/designer? How do I work out if I’ll need heating upstairs? Read a lot of posts and suggestions it’s not needed but the females in my life are dubious…

Thank you for that. Yep I've asked the SE for a quote and what they need. My issues I suppose is its not just the SE cost, I'm fully expecting soil sample as the next request etc. It is what it is though, I'd rather know and do it now than come to a stop before I get going in Feb.

I have just sent them an email ?

The blue circles are the hedge, the report has them labelled as western red cedar (they smell like bubble gum when you cut them). Luckily although the house is called the willows there doesn't appear to be any willow trees! Not that I've ever found anyway. I'm just trying to work out what to do. I have a structural engineer doing the steel work and question is do I get the foundation designed. I've spoken to warranty provider I'm thinking of using this morning and their advice was to buy the warranty (shock) then they can engage the surveyors to look at everything and decide if it needs designing. I hadn't purchased it yet as we are starting in February but it seems like the best course of action to be as prepped as possible rather than find out they want it designed two weeks before we're due to start on site!

Which again begs the question - why get it designed!

yep I’m going to call the warranty provider (that I think I’m going to use) in the morning to work out what’s needed. It’s feeling very much like having a warranty is going to cost a lot more than the warranty fee!

ok… so I don’t have a soil report. That seems like something I’m gonna need… BC and builder didn’t need it for garage. They dug until they got to chalk. BC knows the area well though and commented on that when I spoke to them earlier, told me to allow for 1.8m all round and I will be more than fine.

?? I can work backwards on depth and incorporate necessary insulation. This isn’t the question really…

have SE lined up for steel work. They’re sorting it in next 2/3 weeks. Just wondering whether I get them to do a design, which will then undoubtedly be over engineered compared to BC doing it on site.