markc

If you are handy with a drill, use same size bit to rout the hole to elongate it in direction needed, bit more fiddly than larger drill but removes less material and only in direction needed. And yes we have all done it … or worse, marked several doors and fitted handles before hanging the door …..handle on hinge edge 🤫

I’m with Nick on this, it is surprising what you can run without any problems, and welding plants are rarely running anywhere near max so the current draw is usually pretty low (250a welding is only around 7.5Kva) and it’s not continuous unless doing big long auto runs.

Instead of sanding (which picks up the fibres) finish by scraping. I use a Stanley (other brands are available) type knife blade and drag along the surface, incline blade slightly towards direction of travel. A few strokes and you will feel the surface is very smooth. You will probably find most of the “whiting” will scrape off as you remove the “fluffy” grain patches

Fast cutting speeds in timber require large teeth gullets, but that means nails or screws can end up in the gullet and jam the cutter. the multi material hole saws tend to break the carbide teeth because most drills won’t spin fast enough to “mill” through nails etc. ive had some success using ordinary bi-metal hole saws (starrett out perform most) with 2 or 3 large teeth gullets cut with an angle grinder . These allow more swarf to be cleared and make cutting faster. Also works well for holesawing aluminium which clogs the small teeth.

Now that’s a term I haven’t heard in many years. We always called the big Makita a rip snorter (used for cutting big glulam beams

Hi @Doz, a lot depends on what is underground, well or borehole. Also what you are wanting the water for? And how often. converting your existing pump isn’t practical, motor, crank connecting to the arm etc. but a submersible or bore hole pump are pretty straight forward and could pup out through your existing fuxture with a bit of modification

You only need a masons mitre if you have a pre formed chamfered or rolled edge. If doing solid top, mitre is great glued and bolted, then if you want a chamfer or rolled edge it can be done with a router after joining.

Hi @slystallone, the wall shoulld have the soil side waterproofed with a perforated pipe running around the bottom “French drain” style and backfill with pea gravel, pebbles or similar to allow any water behind the wall to go down into the perforated pipe and then away around the side. idea is to take any water away to prevent the wall from being a Dam and being subjected to water pressure. It would be worth doing a bit of digging at the wall ends to check for any existing drainage that may have been blocked etc. failing that you are looking at water management which means a lot of digging or back to cutting holes in the wall and then collecting the water to take it away in visible pipes on your side,

To do this right you really need to be excavating behind the wall and installing drainage to take the water away rather than through the wall. A pored wall of that size really should have had the drainage installed, any chance there has been other work at the ends possibly blocking the drains? Drilling holes will reduce pressure and water level but then you will be managing the water on the good side of the wall - with pipework

Road planings work well, not the best looking but consolidate to a solid, tough surface allowing water to drain through.

We find the dewalt corded stuff awkward - battery versions are bullet proof but the corded stuff is like it’s missing the battery to make it balance. track saw, I have an erbauwer one and it’s been great, not Festool smoothness or finesse but at 1/4 of the price it’s a good saw. If I was using it finish cutting cabinets etc. on a daily basis then I would have the festool, but for hobby stuff, trimming bottom of doors and breaking sheets down before table saw cutting I will stick with the erbauwer. corded drills, hand circular saws and grinders - I will only buy Makita. FYI, plunge track saw is a great machine, but heavy and cumbersome for a lot of jobs so a small light circular saw is great

Really, the ones I picked up are 2.5mm, sorry @saveasteading I just opened the link but didn’t check details. You do need 2.5mm2 minimum on the cable at 25m long

Yes, these are decent quality, couple of those so you are running parallel supplies, transformer on each and you are sorted.

+1 keep 110v runs as short as possible. 2.5mm or even 4mm arctic cable for the 240v flexible extension to the transformer or even add another dedicated to the lights … saves going dark when they trip the transformer

If you need to cut into the down pipe, holesaw for round holes, dremel type machine with a cutting disk for straight lines / squares etc

I wouldn’t worry about that, no signs of settling away from first brick course, loads of bearing either side and brickwork above looks good. Lintel looks to be cast in situ so good chance it cracked while drying out.

I reckon this is just wind blown water with you saying stormy weather.

I’m guessing detergent .. looks too white for anything else

Inchworms are the larvae of geometer moths … 2.54cm worms doesn’t have the same ring to it.

You should use max. “Potential” voltage or open circuit voltage

I use Tapo plugs and you can control by app but also turn on/off using the button, nice bit is that if you manually over-ride, the next schedule cycle reverts back to auto control.

I would go simple heater (thermostat) and add any control for timer etc. far too much stuff now that requires an app to use it. i have just put two oil filled rads in my workshop but controlled with smart plugs for timing

A guy I used to work with was ok in metric as long as they were whole numbers in 100mm increments - everything else was an imperial add-on. 3500mm - 3.5m 3600mm - 3.6m 3612mm - 3.6m and 1/2 inch it made setting out conversations interesting to others.

Generally you don’t want any “pooling” points in ductwork, but if air is always moving then any condensation that does form should be quickly moved as it evaporates again.

Really depends on whether you need the drain, if it’s all redundant, seal it up. You don’t need to excavate anything if the end is in your house and it’s not used, just pour some concrete in. If you cannot get to the end that’s in your place, dig as close as you can, find the pipe and break it, then backfill the hole.