markc

Simple answer - No. during high winds the blade tips sweep very close to the masts making guy wires impossible.

Generic - whoever is making your gates

Regular steel posts will not allow a brick covering, post fabricator will fit extended hinges if needed or you can get it done on site. Also be aware that a lot of steel posts are made as cheap as possible and thinner ones often flex with weight of gate (or kids climbing on them), this often cracks the brick or stone covering. make sure the steel post has been sized not to flex or go with concrete core and brick skin.

A small kids ball, tennis balls generally go around the bend but something a bit larger may get stuck. Buying a cheapie endoscope camera would be a good idea here, if not you are into jetting (proper jetting or pressure washer) or digging out

If you push the hose up from the chamber, how far does it go? Trying to identify if the blockage is in the pipe or the trap (u bend). My gut feeling this is a ball that gone down when the water was low and then pushed round as water flowed in … if it is a ball they can be a pig to get out.. jetting with a good hose or pressure washer back towards the house would be my preferred approach.

Yes the connections have some movement as the seals are not on the end. Laser, water level or site level to check pipe height at both ends to check you have correct fall.

Some chanber bases have built in fall - from the fan towards single outlet. But the small diameter of a domestic IC means fall isn’t worth considering … only fall on pipe runs between points.

If only 24v then no precautions necessary - good practice to mitigate fire of course, terminals can be exposed .. as in vehicles etc.

I have seen the permeability test “sorted” after a site used type 1. Contractor drilled holes and filled with clean graded stone/pebbles. … and no, it wasn’t me!

I was just about to say a couple of small A2A hp’s - they work well and give heat, cooling and de humidifier (unit depending). electric shower and small under basin water heaters?

Omg! Far too many years dealing with heavy power and never seen one of those meters with a disconnect - would have saved me countless hours with insulated drivers and juggling live tails - then again it’s all been industrial stuff so most work was done live.

To disconnect you remove the faceplate to access the terminals, but they will be live unless you (insert suitably qualified person) pull the service fuse first.

Try FH Brundle, or a local gates and railings place could sort them for you.

Grid frequency is rarely 0.2% above or below (+/- 0.5% is the statuary limit) so makes very little difference.

Your best friend for levelling is a long cheap spirit level, otherwise you can use a plank with a spirit level held or attached to it but this will be quite heavy and you have a lot of reaching and scraping level to do. also depends on accuracy of finish you are looking to achieve? If

Cutting the beams is drastic and not straight forward. First I would be investigating where the water is coming from, looks like the gap around the bean has been filled with mortar - if this is bridging the cavity then you could be pulling water from outer leaf onto the beam which should only be sitting on inner leaf. Maybe the water is coming from above … leaking pipe / drain etc. more investigation …. Less cutting!

Parts need replacing when they break down, what’s stopping you “repairing” your system with modern components.

Superlec direct are pretty good for CU’s, SWA, cable tray etc.

Dry screeding is DIY able if you get yourself organised first … or it can go horribly wrong. At 50mm thick, 21sq will be around 2100kgs so you are looking at 3200kgs (ish) - a lot to move for 1 or even 2 people. levels / flatness are your next concern. Set out your finished level around the perimeter.. small blocks screwed to wall work well. You can then use a long spirit level as a screed bar and work from your level blocks. get the screed mix into place and compact it well by walking around and/or an electric compactor. When it’s upto (slightly high) level, scrape it back to level and flat from the level blocks. ….. or just use wet screed and save a lot of effort.

A mate of mine was Electrical Shift Engineer or similar at the new Keadby gas fired station. Some government official at a presentation saying burning gas instead of coal would provide the lowest cost energy possible …hmmm 🤔. Then I did a load of work on Drax where burning local Reeds would be almost free fuel …. Not difficult to see that a few hundred acres of reeds wont burn for long and takes time to grow again.

Well done - one of those jobs you could have brought someone in and they would have bodged it again.

They are Carrier units, I should have provided local rotary isolators but couldn’t do it before they started so agreed an extra £200 for them to sort it.

I have just had 3 stand alone air to air (heat and cooling) units fitted for £4500.00 that’s for the 3 fully installed and they did a fantastic job.

I thought all plasterboard sheets were about 1/4 inch undersize - I assumed you were supposed to leave a gap to push plaster into (I’m def not a plasterer).

A friend of mine did herringbone in a L shaped kitchen and lined up with a wall - looks great in one part and terrible in the other because of straightness / right angle discrepancies.