markc

A breeding pair of brikkies … ok, I’m mentally scared now

I cannot build anything on my green belt area unless it is skid mounted and can be moved around. PD application on the curtilage and planners and wanting me to keep my workshop/garden room under 100sqm (I wanted 160sqm) to prevent future conversion into a dwelling. They are presently looking at possibly allowing me to build 2x 75sqm with a 1 metre gap between them.

Even barns are difficult unless you have over 5 hectares

@croboy we are in a similar position at the moment, having been looking for a suitable plot for a new build for many years, last year a bungalow with 1.5ish acre came up for sale in a great location, (with possibility of buying a further 10-15 acres later on). it had been built by the two farmers for their parents who passed and then sold to another family (who I purchased from) who knocked down the old barn and applied for planning for a replacement barn - refused, then re applied for a oak framed triple garage - refused, appealed and again refused. We bought the place, used a local architect and applied for a man shed on the paddock area - no chance, re applied with the shed moved onto the garden area to replace some old stables - nope! We reduced the size to 150sqm but still no, planners are now willing to discuss a possible design for 2x 75sqm (so they are unlikely to become dwellings in the future) under permitted development. hoping to get a go ahead in next couple of weeks so I can build my man-sheds.

Hi, welcome and well done

Hi @lord mud of the flyes better to always use a primer to improve adhesion to the surface wether it’s bare or paint, aerosol etch primer is good stuff. body shops often have primer/base coat/laquer - mainly due to metallics which really need a clear coat over the top. black is a solid colour so no laquer/clear coat needed. Most areas have a place for car painting supplies and these are your best bet for the paint.

Several options for metal paint, depends on what the surface is like now. Hammerstein is good if you don’t need a good finish or to do any/much prep. if you are going to put a bit of effort in then flat, etch primer and then rattle can or brushing enamel (all available from vehicle paint places).

Loler cert is like an MOT for lifting equipment and often isn’t worth the paper it’s written on. Likewise training certs tick boxes but mean very little. if you were employing or hiring out an operator then a training cert tick the box that you have ensured they have a basic knowledge and proficiency with the machine and loler cert says that the equipment is safe to use in the manner it was intended, and/or the requirements or recommendations for repairs in a given timeframe. your own equipment for your own use - have fun!

If the extension is a warm roof then you definitely don’t want your cold roof ventilation going under the insulation of the new bit. warm roof part should be blocked off to prevent cold air entering but you need to maintain the ventilation on cold roof - with 3 other sides there shouldn’t be any problem.

A few months ago a friend asked me to look at a new lighting circuit tripping problem. Turned out to be some replacement LED GU10 downlight bulbs (lamps) her dad had convinced her to put new ones in because they are more efficient now … I put the old ones back and hasn’t tripped since.

1) you don’t need a total station unless you are setting out / checking specific positions on complex geometry - which can still be done with distance and plumb etc. but takes far too long. 2) for a new build house etc. FFL will be dictated (usually) by the surrounding ground level, or a specific point that the roof level cannot go over etc. For a datum, a solid fixed point that will not move, be dug up etc. a point in a road, pavement or concrete slab etc. is usual and you then give this a figure (can be Above Sea Level but not necessary unless there are multiple sites and locations working together, roads, bridges, shopping centres etc.) Then use a dumpy level or water level from this point. 3) plan setting out is straightforward using tapes / large square / diagonal checking etc. - loads of YouTube stuff showing how to do it.

It can be very difficult to find and seal leaks in shower screens, often the water is getting under or behind the metal frame and travelling to where it comes out/appears to. Silicon on the outside rarely works because the water is still getting out of the shower area. Quite possible it is the frame to wall connection which usually requires removal of the screen and sealant applied before fitting the frame back against the wall and base.

Hi and welcome. Finding plots is/can be a long and tiresome process. For what it’s worth I have been looking for around 5 years and still not found anything suitable - although I am looking for something particular and will continue to look until I drop on it. But there are those who drop on something pretty quickly.

A UB (universal Beam) has a thin web (vertical) and thicker top and bottom flanges making it stiffer when vertically loaded. As mentioned above, adding a bottom plate to Box section will greatly improve its resistance to deflection because you are increasing the bottom flange

As John said, plus RHS isn’t the best section to minimise deflection as the “flanges” are only 8mm top and bottom agains the added self weight of 16mm of web (2x8mm sides. yes a RHS looks better but it would really need a pre camber before install.

Hi and welcome, yes there are some good traddies but there are even more cowboys (no woke politically correct crap from me). everybody has to start somewhere and learn as they go on.

In this instance I would say GL (a) as this is the highest point adjacent to your new structure

I don’t think there is much, if any good info. Even our suppliers give sketchy answers.

Regardless of degradation, 0.8kWh battery would require just under 1kWh of input to charge it and you could expect maybe 0.7/0.75 kWh back out of it. Battery round trip efficiency is generally around 80-85%

Good morning any welcome, loads of info, tips and tricks on here in past threads, but if you can’t find the answer - ask away.

Has the hinge moved or is it the plastic frame that has gone out of square? Is the hinge side still vertical/parallel to the frame? If so then you don’t adjust the hinges, you “push” the frame back into square by packing the glazing unit.

Hi, do you have any pics of the structure, loads of ways of adding bracing to prevent racking of a table. If one edge of the roof is fixed to a wall you can add diagonal braces in the roof - timber, metal or tensioned wires to hold the other edge rigid at the top. Side braces or if you are wanting to keep the structure clutter free then you are looking at holding it be the joints between posts and top members. Loads of options and no real right or wrong.

Pulling a post into square before fixings will help it to stay put, but without bracing a “table” structure will sway and pulling one leg into plumb generally results is it pulling another leg half way so the stresses balance.

Obviously no slope/fall to drain the surface, a level area will always puddle to some extent. Your only real option here (apart from taking up and starting again with a fall) is to drill one or more drainage holes in the area of the puddle.

@PCurtis for a quick fix you could use a tanking/liquid membrane - Aquaseal or similar, goes on like thick paint and cures to a flexible rubber like layer. You can apply to damp surfaces (cellar walls etc. but much better if it’s dry - heat gun or hair dryer work well).