markc

An Engineer over engineer something? … never! 🤫

If I am doing panels I dowel them at the bottom with plastic washers as spacers to keep them just clear of the floor to prevent water soak up. 6mm stainless threaded rod works well inserted into holes in floor and underside of the panel. Invisible and nothing to snag appliances

Do you have any details? Are they required to prevent racking of the structure or to reduce wind loads on brickwork, glazing etc.

@Dazz71, hi and welcome, we have an 80’s bungalow with decent insulation but quite draughty and we often leave the door/s open so Air tightness and MVHR doesn’t make much sense, but earlier this year we had 3x A2A heat pumps installed and they have made a massive difference. Blown warm air goes down well with my wife and the added bonus of air con has been great, plus running costs have been surprisingly low especially as there’s only the two of us so heating and cooling the whole place isn’t necessary.

It would but pretty sure you cannot have “reachable” lead now .. we were doing an old listed place and the lead trays around windows had to be trimmed back flush with the frames to prevent kids, animals or other intelligent locals from picking or licking the exposed lead.

If you already have fat joints below then even more reason to take them down, make the joints thinner and finish on an extra course.

Cappings are usually custom made or cut from tile etc.

@Alan Ambrose the sheet suppliers will have pre cut/formed fillers. Do you need the ridges to breath? Composite panels make like so much easier than separate liner trays, insulation / rails and then loose top sheet.

Eaves over hang or “cut back” is generally 50 or 75mm which is usually sufficient to keep water from travelling back on the underside. Fold ups at eaves are done to prevent blown water going over the top edge if not stopped by the filler. Eaves fold downs are more aesthetic than functional. eaves flashings are usually L shaped but do often have a small kick in for looks. gutter flashings can look nice … or terrible! And tend to collect leaves etc..

Here you go, one of many places that do hire them without an operator.

Forget the goats, Defra compliance is a nightmare. for brambles and rough grass, hire a walk behind flail mower (often called a Scag mower although that’s just a manufacturer of several rough mowers) or even local farmer should have a flail or topper that will cope with anything upto a sapling.

Area behind water butt looks wet. Is this over spill from the water butt or from gutter etc. hitting ground and splashing? Also appears to be moss where patterned concrete? meets wall. If it is concrete it really should have been finished short of the wall.

Blasting of lead paint in open areas is done wet to prevent dust, the liquid and sludge is collected for disposal. ice blasting is great for car parts like alternators, manifolds, cylinder heads etc but unlikely to be effective on old lead paint, plus very slow progress. definitely do not go near an old beam with a laser, might as well use a blow torch.

Dry lining box or set metal back box in foam maybe

And wrap tape or cling film around end to stop and splashed and odours

An alternative to Glulam especially if you are going to paint it is PSL .. think of OSB in beam form. Dense, doesn’t rot, bend or split etc.

If you have taped both wires together they will not bend .. knot bare cores together to keep join as thin and pliable as possible, once you get the new cable - as above push and pull at same time to ease it around the bend

Gable braces - common in Ag buildings to maintain a wide open gable to just above head (or cattle) height but allow the gable “triangle” to be filled in to provide some shelter. If you want to remove them you need to restrain the gable with a couple of posts in place of the braces

@saveasteading several options for lightweight lifts, know as V.P’s or vertical personnel lifts. Depends how much use it will get, but there used to be a thing called a SkyWinder - purely manual wind up and you assembled it in sections as you went higher. The stabilisers meant it could be light … anything without stabilisers has a bit of weight to it.

Highly unlikely you will have any problems unless there are adjacent buildings where the height would be noticed. If just using FFL, you will (could) be bringing landscaping up at the end of the build so height will still be relative

Are you any good at plastering? If not then I would go for a rolled on finish somewhat like artex or masonary paint.

Small screwdriver to pop the caps out of the tops, remove screw to remove knob and you will then get to take the tap apart. just re read post and you cannot get caps out? If that’s right the whole cap/knob may be held with a snap ring and just pulls off …. With some force ….. or it may shatter!

Fhbrundle is a good supplier, fair prices and delivery is straightforward. i haven’t had key clamp stuff from them but I do buy quite a bit of steel sections and mesh etc.

@marmic .., too many humans …. Couldn’t agree more, now let’s see which groups really care about the planet and volunteer cut the numbers.

Good to see some groups are looking at the climate impact of manufacturing and end of life processing.