markc

Hi and welcome. Finding plots is/can be a long and tiresome process. For what it’s worth I have been looking for around 5 years and still not found anything suitable - although I am looking for something particular and will continue to look until I drop on it. But there are those who drop on something pretty quickly.

A UB (universal Beam) has a thin web (vertical) and thicker top and bottom flanges making it stiffer when vertically loaded. As mentioned above, adding a bottom plate to Box section will greatly improve its resistance to deflection because you are increasing the bottom flange

As John said, plus RHS isn’t the best section to minimise deflection as the “flanges” are only 8mm top and bottom agains the added self weight of 16mm of web (2x8mm sides. yes a RHS looks better but it would really need a pre camber before install.

Hi and welcome, yes there are some good traddies but there are even more cowboys (no woke politically correct crap from me). everybody has to start somewhere and learn as they go on.

In this instance I would say GL (a) as this is the highest point adjacent to your new structure

I don’t think there is much, if any good info. Even our suppliers give sketchy answers.

Regardless of degradation, 0.8kWh battery would require just under 1kWh of input to charge it and you could expect maybe 0.7/0.75 kWh back out of it. Battery round trip efficiency is generally around 80-85%

Good morning any welcome, loads of info, tips and tricks on here in past threads, but if you can’t find the answer - ask away.

Has the hinge moved or is it the plastic frame that has gone out of square? Is the hinge side still vertical/parallel to the frame? If so then you don’t adjust the hinges, you “push” the frame back into square by packing the glazing unit.

Hi, do you have any pics of the structure, loads of ways of adding bracing to prevent racking of a table. If one edge of the roof is fixed to a wall you can add diagonal braces in the roof - timber, metal or tensioned wires to hold the other edge rigid at the top. Side braces or if you are wanting to keep the structure clutter free then you are looking at holding it be the joints between posts and top members. Loads of options and no real right or wrong.

Pulling a post into square before fixings will help it to stay put, but without bracing a “table” structure will sway and pulling one leg into plumb generally results is it pulling another leg half way so the stresses balance.

Obviously no slope/fall to drain the surface, a level area will always puddle to some extent. Your only real option here (apart from taking up and starting again with a fall) is to drill one or more drainage holes in the area of the puddle.

@PCurtis for a quick fix you could use a tanking/liquid membrane - Aquaseal or similar, goes on like thick paint and cures to a flexible rubber like layer. You can apply to damp surfaces (cellar walls etc. but much better if it’s dry - heat gun or hair dryer work well).

If that’s the boards we can see then it’s not grp, even laid over wet boards grp would be a hard rigid layer that is pretty bomb proof - think of a fibreglass boat or kit car. I reckon you have some sort of fabric with a paint or resinous coating. As above, it really needs sorting or it is likely to peel off.

Hi and welcome, looks like an interesting project

Good morning and welcome, I like the “I know what I don’t know” lots of knowledge and experience on here so ask away - can be easier to search past threads and topics first.

Birds should not be able to damage grp, can you post a pic?

Traffic management come under chapter 8 - basically signage and safe routing of pedestrians etc. depending on the crane, (size, side reach and load being lifted) you may not need anything more than a person directing / escorting pedestrians around the crane and assisting traffic management especially if it’s a fairly quiet road.

Hi and welcome

Have a look for drop bolt, loads of variations

Odd for a GRP tank to have a concrete lid but you could take off the lid (assuming you want to reuse it) lay a concrete slab and build off that then put the existing lid back on. If the concrete lid is a disk with an inspection hatch, remove the hatch and put a new plastic chamber on top of the existing disk.

If it’s bare metal then I would use an etch primer followed by a zinc rich undercoat. Galvafroid is very good but can be expensive.

Another Ego convert here, I was sceptical but the big mower and strummer have surprised me, should have spent a bit more and got the brush cutter.

If you need to move the material any distance then you really need a dumper with the machine or a “JCB” (backhoe) to break it up then use the bucket to move it. difference between 3 and 5 tonner would be negligible, while you are paying the extra transport an 8t machine would be the better option. Unless the slab is thick or reinforced then you probably don’t need a pecker, especially with a JCB type machine as it will pull up the slab in chunks

@Originaltwist great post, you just saved me a lot of typing regarding the importance of angle for the “feel” of a stairway while using. 😃