markc

Excavation costs come down to access and muck-away, obvious proximity to water means constant pumping until concrete is water tight. But your “big” item here is the coffer dam to hold the canal away while you finish the approach and gate etc. CRT (canal river trust) can be a pain to work with on something like this. i would be erring towards the upper end of @Conor estimate

In an off grid system you take the neutral and earth back to the inverter terminals, no need for any earth spike etc. - this is similar to an inverter in a motor home or boat etc.

You could start by asking where all the rubbish has come from? They may say other jobs and we are lumping together to then get one grab wagon etc. (more efficient than lots of small skips). If so then you should have been consulted and you will expect a discount and/or the area made good at their cost.

Gutter on outside of the envelope and then cladding in front with access to downpipes if needed (removable cladding section etc). haven’t read rest of post/s so might be barking up the wrong tree

I have been in a few jobs where the piles under a pool were to hold it down, not up. Many of the boat shaped fibreglass pools have recommendations to build the earth around then rather than plant them in the ground.

Hi and welcome, a 4”” sewer won’t be from many or only one property so a move is not difficult at all. If it was a bigger one that would be a different matter altogether.

I am just installing a pretty big system using Victron inverters etc. from EnergyMonkey

I used garage doors online and bought a sectional insulated door from Teckentrup, had to fit myself but it’s a good door and garage doors online were really good.

Loads of places have high water tables and digging a hole results in a pond, but filling the hole prevents water from collecting so it’s not noticed. You would only need a drain if you had water coming into a basement etc. go ahead, fill the hole and lay the toppings.

That has to be more than a coincidence 🤔

Good used machines are hard to find, plant hire companies rarely get rid of good machines so you need to beware of track drives and slew bearings. Leaking/chaffed hoses are easily replaced and rams can be generally be re sealed at reasonable cost but engines, pumps and slew bearings are expensive to replace.

How about build the new bit slightly wider and then over board the existing to get everything plumb and flat

If you don’t want the external handle to work you take the bar out, but then how do you open the door from the outside?

Interesting bit of design. To rescue this I reckon you need a good GRP roofer who would strip back and effectively form a waterproof and tough trough to prevent any more water getting under the tiles or flashings and funnel it to the gutter / down pipe

+1 if you are concerned, clean off a small patch of the top coat to see what’s underneath … very good chance it’s just a bright green paint (or paper) that’s now grinning through.

Good morning and welcome, we all have to start somewhere and BH is a great place to get info and advice from people who are doing it rather than just making videos for YouTube etc.

You need to be budgeting much more than £2/m unless you are doing a lot of the work yourself. It’s a relatively small build, quite a bit of messing about tying into existing etc. if this was mine I would be estimating at £4-5k per metre.

@Handra, sorry only just seen this. nothing wrong with thinking outside the box, but I am struggling to visualise your suggestion at the moment. Any chance of a sketch or doodle?

Dependant on which way your roosts run, you could support the ridge with tied rafters (the tie being between or part of the joists). Or you could use steel rafters with a suitable connection at the ridge (this wouldn’t need ties). I have just done a similar thing on my new man shed - stone and block walls and didn’t want portal frame columns so the rafters work like a portal but with foot plates that land on top of the walls.

As above, soil type is everything, then you look at the depth of excavation and what works will be done and proximity to an unprotected face which will all be included in your risk assessment.

Local planners refused a barn / workshop (my address is a farm but I don’t farm it). But no problem with a building within the curtilage but it had to have a small kitchen and a toilet in order to be ancillary to main house 🤷🏻‍♂️

Paper scraper or thin wide chisel will get the bead started in the middle. Once you get a small gap opened it will come out easily

Squirt of silicon in the holes for peace of mind?

🤫 glazing is much easier to measure correctly

Quick check of auto level accuracy. set in middle of room, mark laser position on opposite walls. Turn laser around 180 degrees and points (or difference in points) should be the same. laser receivers are not that accurate, when checking floors it’s easier to set laser low and use a rule or tape to check height