markc

And wrap tape or cling film around end to stop and splashed and odours

An alternative to Glulam especially if you are going to paint it is PSL .. think of OSB in beam form. Dense, doesn’t rot, bend or split etc.

If you have taped both wires together they will not bend .. knot bare cores together to keep join as thin and pliable as possible, once you get the new cable - as above push and pull at same time to ease it around the bend

Gable braces - common in Ag buildings to maintain a wide open gable to just above head (or cattle) height but allow the gable “triangle” to be filled in to provide some shelter. If you want to remove them you need to restrain the gable with a couple of posts in place of the braces

@saveasteading several options for lightweight lifts, know as V.P’s or vertical personnel lifts. Depends how much use it will get, but there used to be a thing called a SkyWinder - purely manual wind up and you assembled it in sections as you went higher. The stabilisers meant it could be light … anything without stabilisers has a bit of weight to it.

Highly unlikely you will have any problems unless there are adjacent buildings where the height would be noticed. If just using FFL, you will (could) be bringing landscaping up at the end of the build so height will still be relative

Are you any good at plastering? If not then I would go for a rolled on finish somewhat like artex or masonary paint.

Small screwdriver to pop the caps out of the tops, remove screw to remove knob and you will then get to take the tap apart. just re read post and you cannot get caps out? If that’s right the whole cap/knob may be held with a snap ring and just pulls off …. With some force ….. or it may shatter!

Fhbrundle is a good supplier, fair prices and delivery is straightforward. i haven’t had key clamp stuff from them but I do buy quite a bit of steel sections and mesh etc.

@marmic .., too many humans …. Couldn’t agree more, now let’s see which groups really care about the planet and volunteer cut the numbers.

Good to see some groups are looking at the climate impact of manufacturing and end of life processing.

The screws are pants, in the past I have drilled the holes and tapped M8 then used M8 stainless countersunk set screws with head for hex key. You could probably get away with M6 but I just had some M8 available.

Oh yes … and don’t hold the wires in your mouth … as I learned as an apprentice

Plus drains sized accordingly … I recently witnessed a downpour onto an industrial shed and the downpipes and gutter backed up because the water couldn’t get away ….. until a chamber lid lifted and the roof water ended up in the yard.

The local Scote-bags around here are experts with hydroponics and grow lamps

That’s a fantastic offer from @Gus Potter. I love steelwork, so designed and fabricated and erected my part-portal garage/man-cave. Roof is 100mm kingspan but why o why did I go for valley’s 🙈. They look great but we’re a pain to make work especially keeping headroom to max by putting purlins between the rafters.

Definitely right handed but now banned due to Max being offended and ridiculed by his work mates.

Nope, that’s a Right handed tape, L/H tapes are graduated right to left.

Water does expand and lose density but only around 40g per Cube metre over a range of +2ish to 30ish degrees C. So I think we can call the water gauge pretty accurate regardless

Agree with @Bonner, plus when you say the vents are staying, I presume you intend extending outward through the cladding and not covering over them.

@phykell all the above is great advice. Just to add, the deep bore report is great for water extraction but not much use for a pool, hence the 5m bores. With a above ground pool the mass (weight) of the pool and water are very important but with an in ground pool it’s very different, the mass off the soil you remove is generally much less than the big concrete tank and fill with water. When you empty the pool the ground wants to push the walls in and any water in the first few metres wants to float your pool out of the ground. If you have a high water table you will be looking at anchoring the pool down rather than supporting it.

Simple answer - No. during high winds the blade tips sweep very close to the masts making guy wires impossible.

Generic - whoever is making your gates

Regular steel posts will not allow a brick covering, post fabricator will fit extended hinges if needed or you can get it done on site. Also be aware that a lot of steel posts are made as cheap as possible and thinner ones often flex with weight of gate (or kids climbing on them), this often cracks the brick or stone covering. make sure the steel post has been sized not to flex or go with concrete core and brick skin.

A small kids ball, tennis balls generally go around the bend but something a bit larger may get stuck. Buying a cheapie endoscope camera would be a good idea here, if not you are into jetting (proper jetting or pressure washer) or digging out