markc

Ouch! 🤣🤣

Ties welded to top of beams or bent strap ties bolted or shot nailed onto top of beam will tie the blockwork in.

3 phase supply and only use 1 phase if that covers your needs, if you do have a 3 phase heat pump and want that to run from the battery then you will need a battery on each phase. Or you have the 3ph heat pump running from grid and use a single phase battery for your domestic needs and export any spare to offset the heat pump requirements.

That looks neat, I would fill with a coloured flexible filler / silicon etc. anything on top will be more obvious and as your levels look right, a cover strip would be more of a trip.

At 200mm long you can do it in a decent size vice with 2 pieces of angle to act like a press brake. Bit fiddly to hold until you get vice nipped but it does work. 40x40x3 angle would be upto this. Possibly 25x25 angle as your piece is only 60mm wide

They found that all barks consumed hydrogen, carbon monoxide and methane in aerobic conditions when oxygen is available. But when trees are submerged in water and oxygen is limited, such as in swamps, bark microbes switched to producing the same gases. This is interesting 🤔,

Hi and welcome

I reckon you will have to go for bespoke unit, not too difficult for a job. Alternative would be two doors joined together to make a single unit.

If you are handy with a drill, use same size bit to rout the hole to elongate it in direction needed, bit more fiddly than larger drill but removes less material and only in direction needed. And yes we have all done it … or worse, marked several doors and fitted handles before hanging the door …..handle on hinge edge 🤫

I’m with Nick on this, it is surprising what you can run without any problems, and welding plants are rarely running anywhere near max so the current draw is usually pretty low (250a welding is only around 7.5Kva) and it’s not continuous unless doing big long auto runs.

Instead of sanding (which picks up the fibres) finish by scraping. I use a Stanley (other brands are available) type knife blade and drag along the surface, incline blade slightly towards direction of travel. A few strokes and you will feel the surface is very smooth. You will probably find most of the “whiting” will scrape off as you remove the “fluffy” grain patches

Fast cutting speeds in timber require large teeth gullets, but that means nails or screws can end up in the gullet and jam the cutter. the multi material hole saws tend to break the carbide teeth because most drills won’t spin fast enough to “mill” through nails etc. ive had some success using ordinary bi-metal hole saws (starrett out perform most) with 2 or 3 large teeth gullets cut with an angle grinder . These allow more swarf to be cleared and make cutting faster. Also works well for holesawing aluminium which clogs the small teeth.

Now that’s a term I haven’t heard in many years. We always called the big Makita a rip snorter (used for cutting big glulam beams

Hi @Doz, a lot depends on what is underground, well or borehole. Also what you are wanting the water for? And how often. converting your existing pump isn’t practical, motor, crank connecting to the arm etc. but a submersible or bore hole pump are pretty straight forward and could pup out through your existing fuxture with a bit of modification

You only need a masons mitre if you have a pre formed chamfered or rolled edge. If doing solid top, mitre is great glued and bolted, then if you want a chamfer or rolled edge it can be done with a router after joining.

Hi @slystallone, the wall shoulld have the soil side waterproofed with a perforated pipe running around the bottom “French drain” style and backfill with pea gravel, pebbles or similar to allow any water behind the wall to go down into the perforated pipe and then away around the side. idea is to take any water away to prevent the wall from being a Dam and being subjected to water pressure. It would be worth doing a bit of digging at the wall ends to check for any existing drainage that may have been blocked etc. failing that you are looking at water management which means a lot of digging or back to cutting holes in the wall and then collecting the water to take it away in visible pipes on your side,

To do this right you really need to be excavating behind the wall and installing drainage to take the water away rather than through the wall. A pored wall of that size really should have had the drainage installed, any chance there has been other work at the ends possibly blocking the drains? Drilling holes will reduce pressure and water level but then you will be managing the water on the good side of the wall - with pipework

Road planings work well, not the best looking but consolidate to a solid, tough surface allowing water to drain through.

We find the dewalt corded stuff awkward - battery versions are bullet proof but the corded stuff is like it’s missing the battery to make it balance. track saw, I have an erbauwer one and it’s been great, not Festool smoothness or finesse but at 1/4 of the price it’s a good saw. If I was using it finish cutting cabinets etc. on a daily basis then I would have the festool, but for hobby stuff, trimming bottom of doors and breaking sheets down before table saw cutting I will stick with the erbauwer. corded drills, hand circular saws and grinders - I will only buy Makita. FYI, plunge track saw is a great machine, but heavy and cumbersome for a lot of jobs so a small light circular saw is great

Really, the ones I picked up are 2.5mm, sorry @saveasteading I just opened the link but didn’t check details. You do need 2.5mm2 minimum on the cable at 25m long

Yes, these are decent quality, couple of those so you are running parallel supplies, transformer on each and you are sorted.

+1 keep 110v runs as short as possible. 2.5mm or even 4mm arctic cable for the 240v flexible extension to the transformer or even add another dedicated to the lights … saves going dark when they trip the transformer

If you need to cut into the down pipe, holesaw for round holes, dremel type machine with a cutting disk for straight lines / squares etc

I wouldn’t worry about that, no signs of settling away from first brick course, loads of bearing either side and brickwork above looks good. Lintel looks to be cast in situ so good chance it cracked while drying out.

I reckon this is just wind blown water with you saying stormy weather.