dangti6

Grateful if I could rack some brains. I am going to dig a soakaway fed by 2 rainwater down pipes. I’m looking to branch off using a 45degree fitting as shown below. Each down pipe will enter bottle gullies. Is a 15 degree bend a common angle to connect to each gully to give me the fall? My entry points are fixed. Is there another way to achieve what I need that I have overlooked, perhaps running 2 straight pipes in to the soakaway to avoid the branch? Also I ordered some geotextile fabric and explained it was for wrapping soakaway crates and they sent me some Groundtex - essentially weed membrane like this. Not sure I’m comfortable using that so may buy another roll of proper non woven stuff unless I am worrying too much and should just use it.

How old are you and how long have you been in the rental? (just trying to determine if it could be age related changes and not the toilet)

I have a length of soffit board which runs under a steel beam (garage door opening). It is held on an external frame behind the fascia, but before the door frame goes on rendering access difficult, I’d like to add some adhesive between the steel and soffit for insurance. I have some pink grip adhesive to hand which states not for use with plastic laminated foam board. I checked the tube as I feared there could be a case of show through, melting etc. Solvent free adhesives require one material be porous. Superglue is my strongest contender at the moment. Could anyone recommend an adhesive for this application?

I agree with once a timewaster, always a time waster, however - do you have any idea on the availability of Builder B or if he's as equally poor at communication? If you stick with A and August turns into October, are you going to wish you'd appointed B? I'd be asking builder B his availability and make a decision based on that. If he says he can't get to you until the end of the year, you are no better off. I had pretty much the same experience with my groundworker. Visited in June and took a couple weeks to 'quote'. Asked for that in writing which took another couple of weeks - which is absolutely fine, I realise people are busy and that part isn't what frustrated me. When he initially visited I asked on availability and was told 8/10 weeks. Turned out to be double that. Not an issue per se, but it was the poor communication and constant unknown as I would ring him and ask how many jobs he had in before me, and he couldn't (or wouldn't say). I was no doubt being pushed out for other jobs. I could accept that if it was actually communicated to me, not 'you're next I am just finishing a job' to then a few weeks later hear 'just doing a patio and then be with you'. Towards the end I was contemplating going elsewhere, but this guy did come as a recommendation, I had seen his work and was learning that communication is commonly poor and I'd no doubt have faced the same issues and even more delays so stuck with it in the end. EDIT - Skimmed past the fact he hadn't returned your calls or emails - sack him off in that case. Cynic in me wonders if people come crawling when they are otherwise light on work. These people are always on the ball enough to get home and ping out your invoice within an hour of leaving site on the last day aren't they

I agree with once a timewaster, always a time waster, however - do you have any idea on the availability of Builder B or if he's as equally poor at communication? If you stick with A and August turns into October, are you going to wish you'd appointed B? I'd be asking builder B his availability and make a decision based on that. If he says he can't get to you until the end of the year, you are no better off. I had pretty much the same experience with my groundworker. Visited in June and took a couple weeks to 'quote'. Asked for that in writing which took another couple of weeks - which is absolutely fine, I realise people are busy and that part isn't what frustrated me. When he initially visited I asked on availability and was told 8/10 weeks. Turned out to be double that. Not an issue per se, but it was the poor communication and constant unknown as I would ring him and ask how many jobs he had in before me, and he couldn't (or wouldn't say). I was no doubt being pushed out for other jobs. I could accept that if it was actually communicated to me, not 'you're next I am just finishing a job' to then a few weeks later hear 'just doing a patio and then be with you'. Towards the end I was contemplating going elsewhere, but this guy did come as a recommendation, I had seen his work and was learning that communication is commonly poor and I'd no doubt have faced the same issues and even more delays so stuck with it in the end.

Currently leaning towards giving it a punt myself, but still not at that stage yet so no doubt I’ll sway either way multiple times until I need to do something. I have taken down the end of the wall and noticed that the existing slab is floating in this corner. I’m assuming that’s just where the hardcore base slid down in to the front trench dug along the original door opening. I’ll know more as I knock the rest of the wall down when I finally have the garage door installed. Rather than cut that section out, would you push and whacked the hardcore against the void to fill it or perhaps allow the new concrete to spill under there to make it up? Don’t want it to crack when a car drives over it. The mind wanders when you have time to overthink rather than just get on with a job!

I have nearly finished putting up a 40sqm ceiling. I used 9.5mm sheets (to match existing, and it's only a garage), straight edged (merchant doesn't supply tapered in 9.5). Therefore I have a fair amount of joints, all butted. I am looking at taping and filling. I bought some Gyproc 'FibaTape Xtreme' mesh tape as it's supposed to be nice and sticky. The existing section of ceiling boards are fibre backed paper taped. Would you remove the paper and replace with the mesh or just fill over the tape? It's quite well stuck so I am tempted to leave it unless renewing with FibaTape is likely to give a better chance of a half decent finish. Filler wise, I am looking at using this Gyproc stuff. British Gypsum Gyproc Joint Filler 12.5kg | Wickes.co.uk No idea how far this stuff goes when mixed. Potentially how long is a piece of string, but how many bags would you grab as a starter to give you decent chance of having enough? Does the filler and or plasterboard need sealing before painting over? I have considered having it skimmed to save the effort, but it's a garage and I need to reign it in.

Started a ceiling at the weekend. Hadn't anticipated the noggins taking longer than getting the sheets up. Not helped by the fact I had a few boards up before I noticed the sag and had to climb in to the loft void to retrospectively fit

My garage is accessible via the house and naturally fairly full of stuff, so I have had it extended with the intention to knock the existing outside wall down when the garage door has been added, which means the slab would be the last task. In hindsight maybe I should have built a partition running along the inside of the wall so it could be knocked down sooner, but it is what it is now. I will lap a membrane up against the existing slab and under the skirt that runs along the DPC of the new walls. I'm allowing for ~4" of concrete. Initially I'd intended to get someone in to lay and trowel the floor 'nicely' to match the existing as best as possible as I thought it may be beyond me to get a nice smooth finish on my own as I'm not particularly familiar with trowelling concrete. I am now wondering whether I could do it myself in a way where I am more likely to get a better result - perhaps tamp it as best I can and then self level over the entire floor for a seamless finish between old and new. What I would pay in self levelling compound would surely come in less than the labour element of having the slab laid, and may give me an overall better finish. My concern with the self levelling is the front edge threshold for driving over. Perhaps add a rubber seal to ramp over it so it doesn't crumble, or is it as firm as concrete? What would you do in my shoes? Opinions and other options to consider would be appreciated.

Something like this will do you: DeLonghi 0148512201 De'Longhi DEX212F Dehumidifier, White, 300 W, 12 liters: Amazon.co.uk: Kitchen & Home You don't need 3. Move it around every now and then.

Thanks nod.

I have had a quotation for rendering my garage, and would appreciate any feedback on whether there’s anything to query/change in terms of the method proposed. I asked for it to match the finish to my porch as far as possible so it ties in. “Fit angle beads to all angles as required, fit battens to Dpc line ready to form a new bell cast, apply a 10mm scratch coat of sand and cement render to exterior of new garage with a built in waterproof additive, when cured apply a 13mm render coat of sand and cement, again incorporating a waterproof additive, when cured remove batten from under the newly formed bell cast and apply a sand and cement Tyrolean finish to all new render to finish” All sounds fine to me apart from expecting some sort of bead along the bottom rather than a batten to form the shape. Is that an old school way which gives a better finish or a cheaper lazier method? (He did say Tyrolean is a finish in its own right vs sand and cement but suggested sand and cement would suffice as I’d be painting it to match) @nod probably one for you

Man has needs. Man has lock on door.

I have had walls built up before the concrete floor has been laid for one reason or another. An ‘apron’ of DPM for want of a better word was added in at the DPC level to enable the DPM to be lapped up when the floor slab is laid. The walls are single skin and therefore I have a few piers along the way. Whilst most of the corners are tucked in as in the the first image - one or two are not, and I’m wondering how to get around this. This is a garage, so I’m not going to plaster/plasterboard the internal walls. Intention would be to add some skirting board or similar to cover over the membrane as the finished slab level to the DPC is about 140mm inside. Slightly past the point of pulling it out and redoing it as the walls are to wall plate now. What is likely to satisfy the BCO as a resolution? Cut and shut with various strips and DPC jointing tape is the only way I can see around it other than cut it all off and have the DPM for the floor lapped up the walls beyond and above the DPC.

Makes you wonder whether it’s to entice people to buy a bag of Redland branded nails. I found a document online somewhere previously, can’t put my finger on it now but have it on file somewhere which made reference a British Standard and how often they should be nailed. Recall mention of clips also. The tiles are Redland Grovebury interlocking tiles. Will take guidance on nailing every tile and do that for belt and braces.

Redland suggest I require 70mm x 3.75 aluminium nails for the tiles I will be using. These appear tricky to get hold of, presumably not a standard size also. Websites I have found are either out of stock or chuck the default £100+ Redland delivery charge on. Tried a couple of merchants and the roofing supplier where I ordered the tiles and they offered a 3.35mm thick version. What’s a gnats todger between friends? Going against Redlands specification is the sort of thing that would keep me up of a windy night ? Anyone care to rub my back and tell me it will be ok or point me to a supplier I haven’t come across?

Your anger and constant frustration is not healthy. I'd hope you are not sat typing in the manner which you often come across. There's jest within parts so hopefully not. It's a case of give and take when you rely on people trying to help you. If you are vague, unclear or misleading in your explanation and when questioned are unable to respond without challenging them aggressively, the quality of subsequent information is going to muddy the waters further as peoples efforts will reduce when they see previous attempts to help have been partially ignored or disputed without reason. If you cannot explain because you understand, take photos. If you don't understand what you are being asked to clarify, say so and be polite and appreciative. Help people to help you. You'll get out what you put in. There's so much fluff in this thread that I could start now saying have you done this or that, but it's probably been asked and shrugged off so people perhaps assume it's not worth the lip service. One thing I can see helping you is for this thread to go stale and fall off the activity list and you coming back and engaging with a fresh mind and clear answers to questions asked throughout to engage people. Bullet pointed, so it's clear what's been tried and covered so ideas aren't repeated. People with experience may see areas they perhaps otherwise assumed you'd tried when suggested before that perhaps you didn't pick up on, or simply didn't think was relevant for whatever reason. At the moment it just looks like you are winding yourself up arguing the toss of what balancing radiators entails and losing focus.

I’m looking to have UPVC fascias and soffits fitted across a garage door opening. (The trusses over the beam will have the same overhang as existing ) The intention is to run the soffit along and underneath the UB. The soffit depth either side is 300mm and distance from the fascia board to the rear of the lintel is 500mm so it should all go in nicely. Due to the (over spec’d?) height of the UB I will have to bring the fascia height down - couldn’t have it any higher due to wall plate. A 250mm tall fascia should do it. A 225mm version would probably angle the soffit down otherwise. Just hope a 250mm fascia doesn’t look too excessive beneath the guttering. Any ideas or thoughts I may not have considered? I’m thinking to bond the 9mm thick soffit panel to the underside of the Beam. In addition I am thinking I could run a strip of timber along the inside edge of the UB and attach some F trim like this to ‘hang’ down and hold the edge of the soffit up tight to the UB. (In hindsight I should have dropped the beam down and had a brick infill or rendered along the top between the door and soffit but maximum overhead entry height may come in handy one day to get something tall inside)

I'm experiencing the same - waiting on some roof tiles, 7 weeks in to a 12 week wait and I'll be surprised if they do arrive by then based on how vague they are being today when I chased progress.

Alternatively if it’s no use to you offer it for free on eBay, Facebook, Gumtree etc etc

Very smart. Is that K rend? I may well take the plunge and have a go myself. I wonder whether something like a roughcast finish may be better for a DIY effort.

It’s not a cavity wall, 215mm block on belly garage wall. I imagine the benefit of setting it back in further is more surface area for render.

Is there a ‘standard’ for the depth within the opening a window should be positioned? Here I have placed the window about 25mm in which looks fine. I am going to have the exterior rendered, which would add say 10mm or so? Therefore to retain that depth once rendered I should fix it about 15mm inside by my estimations. Does that sound about right? Also on a similar subject, I see people usually cut the sill to the width of the window when not having it overhanging each end. Is there any benefit to me cutting the sill straight, but a few mm wider than the window to make it neater when the render overlaps? (Opening is several mm wider either side to allow for expansion/packing etc).

Do you have a builder ready to start as soon as permission is granted? If not, I think you need to be realistic about having this done before May if that was your intention.

I have had an extension built over an existing soakaway and need to either reposition it or route the surface water to the front of the property as an alternative. At the front I believe the surface water goes to a drain rather than front soakaway. My rear garden is not technically large enough to run a soakaway as in whichever direction I was to point, when 5m away from the building I am within 2.5 metres of the surrounding boundaries. This rather lovely drawing visualises my thoughts, running around the garage extension to join up with the drainage at the front. I'd intend to fit roddable bottle gullies for the downpipes at the front and rear which would hopefully allow access to those sections between bends. The two 87.5 degree bends at the corners cause a run down the far right side which is inaccessible in the event of a blockage. Would a rodding point at one end of that long run suffice or do I need inspection chambers at each end?