JohnMo

Duplicate post advertising another post - ignore go to the one with a proper description and photos

Replace with exactly the same thing. Last lot lasted 26 years. Mini digger will make light work of it. Dig trench place posts back fill with an almost dry concrete mix. Add an open membrane to the back of the posts, to filter the water as it makes it's way out the raised area.

It will only take you a couple of days!

If you read proper install manuals for good wind turbines, the distance required from say a roof to the bottom of the turbine blade is huge. In a domestic situation, they can almost never be installed correctly, so output generally is the best part of zero. Big turbines well away from stuff are great, small one near stuff, utter rubbish.

Our house at one point, only had Rockwool Flexi in all the internal walls, and woodcrete external walls - deathly silent. Was a shock as the plasterboard went up, lots more noise etc.

We have a similar sized room. Soft things is key. We did look into that, but they took away from the clean lines, and doing the actual sizing I needed huge amounts of panels, and they wanted huge amounts of money. If you are having curtains they will knock huge amount of echo off the room. Rugs (even thin ones) the same. Soft stuff is good, hard stuff not so good.

House already have it, under the same section as heat pumps.

Inside or outside the frame?

That's brave. Every time I've tried to remove a tile from plasterboard, I ended up replacing the plasterboard as well. Almost impossible to remove cleanly.

If that's the case the normal would be an airtightness of 3-5m³/m², so not really airtight in the grand scheme of things. With MEV you should have trickle vents as well - there are improvements you can make there (new thread) To get a timber frame airtight you need to use a membrane behind the plasterboard. I would find a double socket and unscrew from wall, clip out the pattress box and have a feel and look about. Then report back. Switch of the electric off - if you are messing about near electric.

Use ubbink joints then. Suspect the terminal is designed to go through roof from a cold loft that is outside the airtight envelope. If your doing some different you may have chosen the wrong product.

Are you re using the hole to mount the shower head there again, or moving shower head and want to seal the old hole?

So what did they actually promise? Any figures? What ventilation system did they install? MVHR? dMEV? Intermittent running fans?

Why don't you use ubbink foam duct? Ubbink website states Designed to fit Aerfoam 160 mm & 200 mm, with adaptors available for 150 mm and 180 mm

Maybe watch the news. Everything else is going up, looked earlier in the week, the panels I bought were £76 including vat, today £88, when I bought £67 and the prices dropped the next day.

Sorry no clue to the real answer, but don't sockets have to be a minimum given distance from the floor, so wheel chair users etc can use them? So are you allowed floor sockets?

I have 500W (x2) and 460W (x12), suspect they travel down the same production line, get a test at the end and go in either one of several piles, depending on actual measured output. Production from the panels is good. Seem nice solid ,well made panels. Prices are going up daily, so do don't hang about in procrastination mode

I would and did, stainless mesh screwed up and stuffed in, and the spray foamed it all together. Next get bait traps with this in there https://amzn.eu/d/0fyW3NPc It's a one time eat and their dead.

Heat output is pretty poor on low flow temperatures, you don't really want to be flowing 50+ on the cold day. I would be doing 3 or 4 not 1 or 2. Or better still a proper fan coil that is wall mounted. Design them to provide enough heat at 30 to 35 degs and then run fixed flow temp. Suspect towel radiator output at low temperature will be almost zero, they have almost no surface area. My opinion is if you want to run high flow temperature in a low heat loss house, don't bother with the heat pump, save on capital spend, just go direct electric or storage heater. Use the money saved on heat pump and buy a battery, use octopus storage heater tariff at around 10p per kWh from April. We did UFH, you don't know it's there.

Are you planning on just 1/2 small fan coils and towel rads? Or do you have UFH/radiators as well? The kick space coils, I would look at the spec, as they will most likely have a flow temperature permissive to run the fan, this could be based on a boiler flow temperature and not suitable for a heat pump. Are you doing cooling also, that will make a different answer.

Maybe not - panel may generate something, but not enough to trigger anything to work like your inverter.

Watch your flow temperature, your Vaillant is likely to give long run times, so set to a fixed flow temp, no lower than 16 to 17 degs, otherwise you may get dew point related issues - assume UFH, not direct to fan coils.

If you are getting the bifocal version they are glass / glass. Also watch as I found the datasheet and actual panel size where different, datasheet saying they were bigger (long side) than actually size.

If they are heat only thermostats, and not settable to cooling mode, you need to fudge the system to think there is a call for heat. So you need turn up to a high temperature. If your thermostats can do cooling you need to set to cooling mode. But you controller may fight against you depending on how that interacts. With a Valiant you would be better doing everything through the controller and not the third party thermostats for heat or cooling. There are other threads on here that discussed the same issues

My Cosy rate drops to 10.82p (from 1.33p) per kWh and is fixed until 1 October. And will get paid 12p for export. So that's a win. Not sure the difference in price is worth export from battery though. So will continue with excess PV only.