James94

Before I start I’d like a little advice, going to help my sister board her loft out for extra storage space.Here is a picture of her loft I wonder if we could utilise the rafters running down each side by fixing runners to them at a height above insulation and span across and board out just supporting centre all the way down. I know there is those loft storage stilts,not sure how easy these are to use or if worth using any advice would be much appreciated. Regards. James

Sorry for not replying sooner, are you classing the cheek as the stud wall that sits on the block work up to the ceiling? Is that the proper name for it? I assume the 50mm is to stop cold bridging through that stud? The only issue with that would be creating a difference in levels to the blockwork, and encroaches to much on window frames. Thanks James

I’m going to buy the blower proof for joist ends just to be safe. The drawing below shows a partition wall leading to a vaulted ceiling. This is how I had planned it. I would like to know if we should insulate the stud wall with PIR for thermal insulation down to ceiling level and acoustic for sound insulation down to the wall plate as these stud walls separate bathrooms from landing. Whilst maintaining the VCL. Thanks James

Could you not put a 2x4 frame and staple a decent polythene? Regards. James

I had considered blowerproof around joist ends, it is pricey though. So my understanding was these tapes offer a key for the plaster(see photos attached). Would you say that EML offers a better key and could I then go for a standard air tightness tape or do away with the tape completely? Thanks James

Joists are on hangers, I hadn’t heard of tony trays at that stage so missed the chance to install them, now I’m going to try my best to seal around these. I presumed the air barrier on the photo I attached was the parge coat that laps over the membrane to create a continuous air tight seal.

I am going to either PIR the ceiling and tape all joints or use a avcl membrane then use a tape such as the fentrim 20 or pro clima contega (any other suggestion would be great) to seal to the blockwork and parge up to. Similar to this photo I have found. Do I need a VCL on the walls? Over the parge coat? Standard cavity wall build up by the way. Thanks James

Mark around them all and number each of them, thin drill screw and plugs. If you ever want them off again, less mess and just fill holes. Regards. James

Thanks for all your replies, looks like we’ll have to rethink the wooden gates and go for metal. We have quite a long drive so privacy isn’t to much of an issue.If we are to concrete over the services and drain for the pillars is there anything we should do above the ducting and drain, maybe some sort of bridging to transfer weight? Regards. James

Not really ready for gates just yet but need to sort this out soon as possible, we’re about to back fill the service trench but I need to sort my gate pillar foundations. As you can see from the pictures it’s directly on top of the services, will we be ok going over the top of these ? If so can you recommend best way to back fill over ducting when its in. There is a drain on the other side which will run under the pillar I think it’s about 3” down, will we be ok to go over this too? Gate pillars will be 2/3 bricks wide and 6” or so in height with electric wooden gates , the span between pillars will be approximately 3m. Regards. James

Does it make any difference to the u value if you choose to multiple thicknesses of pir to achieve required depth or any advantages, would it be cheaper? Got this stage still to think about at a later date, would love to see some pics of flooring stages and methods. Regards. James

Roofers been round and he agrees with the GRP route, we’re going to leave it all to him. We do want some lead so probably the up-stand and hopefully lead coming round the front part if it needs to be on show, not sure how it’s going to look yet. You mention the weep holes as per drawing, your right no you can’t see them because the stupid bricky has put them below the roof line, so we’re just going to grind them back and fill them in, not sure if this is right but it’s a little late now. Thanks for all your help. Regards. James

A certainly interesting topic, one that I will recall to when We eventually get to this stage. Although I think the time that our builds taking I hope should of settled out, similar to prodave’s experience. Regards. James

Is the GRP something I can do myself or best left to the roofer? Certainly don’t want this leaking.

I have no idea, is there a standard arrangement for this scenario? The original design with the connection to the house showed a earth rod 50m down the drive. Is there anything I will have to put in place for earthing?

I’ve looked at the cross sectional drawings, we’ve got the roofer coming round Friday to have a look at what we’ve got. The Bricky has been round today and this is how it currently looks until we’re sure how to finish it. I’m assuming we just need to create a fall from the far end parapet wall, to this end where it will meet the front gutter. Whilst having 150mm lead flashing up stand.

Just finishing this part of the build off, trying to get it done before winter comes. Got a retired brickkie round to do a few mornings but he’s not sure how to finish this section of utility. We have an abutment gutter running into the house wall which we think is going to be made of lead, but not sure how to finish the part where the brick and block gable is. The only help we have had is this picture from the architect. Also added a couple of pics too, any help would be much appreciated. Regards. James

Thanks for the help guys, 35mm it is.

Correct me if I’m wrong here, but it’s a 18Kva connection so that is 78.261 amps. I believe we will just use an 80 A fuse?

Have used the calculator and it’s saying 25mm SWA will be ok to use for a 75m run. Both quotes are for me to dig and reinstate on my land, they connect up to the meter points. They was quoting for 50 meters of wavecon 95 which is around £50 a meter so that’s a big chunk of the £3700. The gas meter is situated at the top of the driveway so I thought it would be easier having them together.

Hi all, I’ve had northern power quote me £3700 for an electricity connection, or £1300 to a boundary box and then I build a kiosk, supply the cable and pay an Electrican to wire it up from there. It will be a single phase 18Kva connection with a 80amp fuse I believe. Now I’m just trying to calculate how much savings are to be had if I go down the boundary box route. The total distance from boundary box to consumer unit is roughly 75m, I can check exact measurement later. I’m trying to work out what size cable is required, taking voltage drop into account. As on the original design it showed 50 meters of 95mm wavecon and then a 35mm service cable into the meter. I will attach the Original plan. Thanks James 72B Humberston Ave plan.pdf

One or two original cables which are the ring main these are slightly deeper than the ones we have laid in the wall. Not sure if capping will fit very well was hoping we could just plaster them in.

Just helping a family friend to hide some new tv and lighting cables in a dot dab wall. The question is can I just fill gap straight over the wires with plaster board adhesive, will it cause any harm to wires and would I have to apply a coat of plaster over the adhesive or would it finish similar to plaster for painting. regards. James

Looking good, main thing is is only temporary so use owt you have lying around. No never said owt about the tap, it was just the cheapest from Screwfix, end unscrews. Regards. James

Yeah he came round yesterday to inspect it and said it was all ok, there is no need for the double check valve and stop tap that is shown in the diagram above. They just connect to the end of our pipe, he said something about a small chamber to gain access to the connection valve at a later date when we switch over from temporary supply or we could just bury it our choice. regards. James was looking at the date on your picture says 2010 but maybe that was just the design date.