crispy_wafer

Interested to know, because we didnt have any that rodding points on the rainwater pipes that surround the perimeter of the build and nothing was raised when they came out at the time, however, I have heard of some BCO’s wanting rodding points where a run exceeds a certain distance. It might be one of those ‘depends who you get’

I've got these in my black book of suppliers have a look to see if what you want is in there https://stairpartsdirect.co.uk/product-category/metal/

Yep the cylinder is already prepped ready with the 3 port valve. No worries on that! My main queries are what to do at the ufh as I need to finalise the pipe work at the manifold. My manifold and pump set was all supplied and purchased years ago, taking for granted that blending valves and pumps were required. But I’m sure I’ve read that these were not necessarily required as design and thinking has evolved. - then I started thinking that perhaps the fixed flow pump in the HP may be able to deal with the ufh, reducing complexity and pipe work faff.

Yeah it’s one of the R32 with fixed flow rates, picked up cheap a few years back. I think the Chofu manual shows the cooling control but tbh I’ve not looked deeply into it, when the place is habitable it may be a point for experimentation.

Thankyou, that advice works for me

My understanding (please correct me if I'm wrong) to protect the ufh circuit and floor coverings from over temperature should mogwai eat cookies after midnight and turn into a gremlin and takeover the system! Seriously though, I'm trying to learn, this bit of my Self build is a new topic for me! I would put it off for a little longer, but I need to get that last bit of wall boarded over so I can the plasterer in to finish the skimming.

So, UFH fed from ASHP, my design flow rates are approx 17l/m. The internal pump on the Grant can do 20l/m. I don't mind straying from the schematic. So, if I remove the pump and mixing valve from the manifold, then pipe straight into the UFH. In the plant room I'll have the auto bypass and then the two port valve for the UFH zone. Can I locate a blending valve in the plant room, or does this need to be situated close to the manifold?

No, I've planned as just UFH, but... being the chap I am I've run 3 pairs of MLCP pipework for 1st floor rads/fancoils back to the plant room if the need ever arose!

Just running through my Grant ASHP schematic before I start putting pipes together. Schematic wants a close coupled tee, what does it do?

If you have the time and inclination then it’s doable, work out the pipe runs to minimise crossovers and interference from other services if space is tight, go buy rolls of said pipe and clips to keep it tidy and go for it. Many of us have trod this path, and history shows that we do like a good plumbing thread if you are so minded to let others have their 2p worth. Biggest minor issues are how to bring the pipe work tidily into plant room if having individual runs, you can end up with 20 or so individual pipes. And the various wall plate elbows and terminations at the end point. I’m not sure it’s 4 and half grands worth of work in total, but in this day and age where labour costs mucho money then I’d diy it.

We've had some success with Dulux super matt on ceilings, and diamond matt for the walls.

Another with a huepar and would also recommend. Mine went out of level through an accident on my part, a video of me running the calibration test and they sent me a new unit.

Back in the day, we used to use hotspot black grate polish to rub into the castings. The rust would only ever be surface dusting of corrosion on the old hunter and Dunsley’s and would pretty much disappear when rubbing a finger over it.

Yeah, type 1, just to give the slop a bit of body! and a 9t of sand for the brickwork delivered. That was late August, so ground pretty dry, but a downpour raised my pulse level a bit! Then well, I couldnt stop myself, in and out of the trench, when really I should have kept well clear. In terms of concrete, not sure, let the builder deal with that. The concrete firmed up pretty quickly though.

Been thinking about sharing these... Found's werent as longs as yours and no pump, because we had reasonable access all round @flanagaj but if you wanted a quick vid or two, we did have a bit of rain between dig and pour, and we handballed a little slop out when an edge or two fell in. But that's the nature of it. If I remember rightly, we had a surveyer mark out the layout, sprayed blue line paint between the pins. Nothing too technical. We used pins in the sides of the trench for depth management. and a laser with staff for levels!

slight tangent, What blades/discs do you use @Nickfromwales

The manufacturer offers a rectified tile, so I can definitely get a nice straight edge, it's more how they look when crossing over the tumbled edge and grout line, but thinking about it that would be the same as if I selected timber anyway. They also offer a specific skirting tile, but I'd need to speak to the local tile supply man to see how much he can import them for. Quick google suggests £16'ish, if thats for 1 then that's too dear for me, and I choose the cut route.

yeah, nice! I do like the tiled skirting tbh. I think I'm going to wait for the tiles to be laid then I will get some samples cut and see what look we get. The tile we have chosen is a stone effect with tumbled edge, so may or may not lend itself to a tile skirting.

Strangely satisfying though to see a pile of materials almost disappear as they are incorporated into the build. and yeah the odds and ends that need getting rid of when finished that particular task is a task in itself. PIR offcuts I bagged them, photo'd and listed on market place. £20 - take what you want sort of listing. Inundated by people wanting it for sheds and the like, they aren't fussy, foaming and taping it together...

I'm going to bounce into this thread rather start afresh, Appreciate I'm taking from the forum and not giving much back, but same situation! Cemfloor, Tiles... matting required or not. Two tilers been round, middle aged gent asks how long screed been down, I says 2 years, has the odd (3) crack coming out of doorways where expansion joints were not inserted, asks my opinion on anti crack matting me says no idea you're the expert!, he says 'good, 2 years, I don't think you need it' Younger chappie comes round at weekend would rather install matting! Now I've no idea what to do, it's budgeted for, but if I can put the £15 m2 (supply + install) cost towards doors or other fittings then I'd rather do so. But, belt and braces and all that, will I regret not doing so?

More costly, but is tulipwood a viable material?

interesting, I’ve seen this on my holidays in the apartments. how have you interfaced with door architraves? We’ve having a modular rustic tile fitted on the floor, I’ll check the catalogue and see what options they have listed to see if it could pass muster!

To be fair, I did a cut with my old angle grinder last night to go from underneath and round the corner edge of the bathtub, took a bit of doing but turned out good I think. I’ve got an old cheap wet disc cutter but that creates more chips than McCain’s, so reluctant to use it for anything other than wall corners where the cuts will be out of sight.

Hmm... I will be having the floors tiled, so mopping will be happening! Nice personal touch creating your skirting. Inspired me to seek out a video, and I'm now looking at table saws on ebay - lol.

Looked through some old threads and conventional wisdom seemed split between MDF, and timber. We'll be painted rather than wood on show. I'm leaning towards timber, pine or tulipwood, Pine being cheaper than Tulipwood. Any wider thoughts on material choice? And longevity of MDF? Dont know if I should reconsider. If I choose timber, is it worth having them primed? Or is it not worth the hassle! - Backstory, I received some primed window boards and had to start again as the finish was like orange peel. Any decent online suppliers that you've used, I've bookmarked a few that I have come across.