crispy_wafer

Polypipe, hit your local civils place, often worth their weight in gold through experience and advice.

did you try or think about what @Nickfromwales suggested eps at the bottom of the cavity, xps board against the outer leaf to insulate against the cold bridges then fill with concrete.

use a 135 junction and shove a 45 in the end of it.

I did similar, kept accessible, because I’ve put stop taps on the two feeds off the main. Saves me having to go out to the road to kill the individual tails. I’m in the process(2 years, because not important just yet) of building up a chamber, it’ll be something along the lines of 700*1250 ish so I can get into it should I ever need to. There’s probably a better way, maybe theres a manifold for mdpe which could simplify matters, haven’t looked tbh.

Just be mindful, I wasnt... With trusses you may get cross bracing included! makes insulating a pain in bottom as the bracing can get in the way, it can be done though, just takes a little more time.

I’d say that he’s right to concerned that screw/nail holes can be affected by rain/moisture, no different to the board joints really, so put a small dob of d4 over the nail/screw will help. A floor scraper when watertight to lift the foam.

AICO, should cover most, if not all needs

I cant add too much, but in the first instance i'd ask, does the HP have a pump built in, if it does, then does it have enough grunt to supply the needed litres per minute for the install.

Personally, under the slab I wouldnt run copper, i guess many have done in the past though, Me, I'd run a 110mm soil pipe and push 25mm mdpe through it, rest bend where it comes back out of the slab. No pipe joints where you cant get to them.

Nice idea, yeah I'd run it past your SE for peace of mind, or even @Gus Potter might lend an ear for his thoughts. I cant help too much, because I've gone with central spine, however when time comes for manufacture, assuming you don't fabricate it yourself, don't be afraid to look up local fabrication firms and joiners for treads.

downpipe at one end or in the middle of the run?

🤣 appreciate the last couple of posts, I've been eyeing up steel baths too...

Would it be easier to just batten with 3*1 or 4*1, using the lowest spot as your zero point, and shim out the battens at the high spots.

we did Engineering bricks where above external ground level to dpc then facing bricks above dpc, below ground level was heavy concrete blocks.

Wont lie, got two, one had to be swapped 4 times because of stone resin that had set on the underside of the drainage outlet that I wanted to use, I was unwilling to sand/grind it off incase I fubar'd the tray. The company I purchased from were first class in dealing with the issue for me, even though the tray had sat for 6 months or so without me unpacking or installing. This was the first time I'd actually rejected the replacements before they even got off the delivery van. All good in the end though. In terms of the tray, yeah it looks good, don't even notice it now!

Had the same issue - I ended up fitting a Kudos Connect2 tray to get me out of bother.

Ufh downstairs from the ashp, with separate ducted split ac, downstairs and upstairs - ducted AC in bedrooms, wet, or electric towel rads + electric ufh in bathrooms. Flexibility, heat downstairs cooling upstairs, or vice versa, cool in one bedroom warm in another… that sort of thing. How often this’ll be done though who knows.

Not really following this thread too much, but if its a sales pitch, it's because it's true, air to water heat pump can heat as well as cool. They are designed to do just that, just like air to air. Customer just needs to choose a preferred method, make a choice of a wide range of emitter types for air to air, or mounted fan coils/underfloor for air to water system. In this country, it's more of a mindset and grant issue, rather than technological. Having one box outside is a cleaner/sleeker look, having two, gives some redundancy...

I did Copper tails out of manifold to into hep couplers and 10mm sockets here. You can buy brackets like they use for UFH manifolds, cant see why this wouldn't work.

Just sealing up of the blockwork, filling up the visible pores and sealing over the mortar joints of the inner face of blockwork with either a product called sound coat, or a sand and cement mix. Not needed if you go float and set (wet plaster). But if dot and dab its a secondary measure to cover your backside if the brickies haven’t been quite as diligent as they should have been. A couple of days labour for me and the mrs, but if paying someone I may have thought twice about it, doesn’t need to be neat!

🤣 I Parged, then I d&d because i didnt have anything better to do with my time. As above, ensure enough adhesive in the correct places. Work out your main hanging points so extra adhesive can be added here.

Like what you’ve done there, save’s having to paint the ceiling I suppose. Pretty sure you can get sensors that mount horizontally, saves having to prop up that tile at the back.

any good

Not sure I’ve ever had a cupboard that I couldn’t see into,the only caveat I could think of is perhaps as above - under the sink, or those cupboards in corners where you may need to look round a corner if you didn’t want to open them up fully. So perhaps limited specific ‘that’s a good idea’ use rather than a blanket install.

I guess it depends on the building design, however your neck of the woods flemish bond would be the traditional go to. Mortar colour and finish style makes a big difference too.