crispy_wafer

to be honest this is the quicker, and possibly more wallet friendly option. Tenner a tin, he'll get the VAT back, and also be able to use it for sealing those penetrations for lights, cctv cameras, external taps, outside sockets etc. I get the 'Got to be sure' thoughts you are having, sometimes to just have to have the feeling that you've done all you can. All in, it's probably a couple of pots of paint and a couple of hours of time. I don't think there is really a right or wrong here, both methods will do a job for you. I haven't foamed the base of the boards, but I might do, it would stop the crap accumulating under the boards! Sort of job that could be done in 20 minutes whilst I'm pressure testing plumbing...

yeah, i did... Soudatight lq, onto floor and wall, then soudaltight membrane squashed in with a couple more coats of lq over the top, paying attention to the edges. if you are geared up to spray, then there is a sprayable paint that will cover the junction. Thinking about it, if the dpm and dpc is taped correctly all round, should this junction even an issue?

Yes to brick and block, yes I had a prelim air test done last year, but I cocked up, left a fist sized hole into to the cavity that I’d forgotten about. The air test did highlight a number of areas for attention though, mainly with air leakage around and behind the roof straps, and a velux which needed some extra attention. My build is a dormer style build, warm roof. So well taped up, membrane down over the wall plate, soudatight onto blockwork membrane stuck into this and painted over, soudatight liberally painted above ceilings, joists foamed, ct1 sealed and taped at penetrations through blockwork. Windows all taped up to inner leaf, blockwork again painted with soudatight and then the tape painted over on the inner leaf with soudatight. Basically anywhere I had tape touching blockwork, there was soudatight before and after. Parged with British gypsum soundcoat to all block walls. Cable holes or pipe holes made with a core drill, then a waste pipe used as a sleeve, foaming glue used on pipe before shoving it in the hole, foamed on the inside and painted over with soudatight again. When cables passed through the pipe would be filled with our favourite illbruck foam then the ends would be ct1’d or ebt’d, and finally a kaflex epdm what’s’it stuck over for good luck! I’ve plasterboarded the place myself dot and dabbed 1 bag to 2 boards, picture framed the boards, stripes of adhesive at 400 and 800 all round the sockets etc. Tried my best, probably not as bob on plumb as a pro, but I’m not far off! Reckon the windows and doors will be the weakest link, round the seals. I first spoke to AB 18 months ago, but couldn’t come to terms with the cost, but as time has passed and I’ve now got to the point where I’ve got a spread coming in Jan, I needed to jump one way or the other, so sod it we’ll miss out on our Christmas trip to the sunshine and the lad’s ski trip just got cancelled by the school so that will cover the unbudgeted cost.

I've certainly taken my time getting to this point, i cant keep putting it off! 🤣

Will be letting the AB guys loose on my build in the next few weeks. I've Parged, taped, soudatighted and done a pretty decent job I think. AB will be the icing on the cake before everything gets skimmed over.

double boarding the wall will give you a bit of extra depth, alternatively a more expensive option - install a digital shower (Mira platinum + other brands)

Bit of a legacy issue here, bit of a cock up during the build means that my first floor is at different levels, a section when drop measured is between 18mm and 23mm lower. I've now finished kicking the can down the road and it's time to do something. The flooring that was put down is the Egger or Caberdek type grey topped boards which are 22mm? It's about 30m2 to go at. What options do I have to bring the levels up? We'll be carpeting upstairs if that makes any difference to a solution. Would something like no more ply and then a suitable SLC be the way to go?

When i knocked mine out, i spoke to huepar about whether I could adjust it. They asked me to send a video of me running the calibration check, they agreed it was off and sent me a new one FOC, it was within a year of buying it, but still, that surprised me.

There’s enough on this forum to get a good grasp of what to do, if you are minded to give it a shot. in fact, I remember reading the forum in it’s early days there were many buildhubbers mapping out schematics and getting hints, tips and advice on how to go about it. I won’t be rude and say that it’s just a load of pipes, because beyond there’s much more to it, and it does require thought and planning, but like above, sometimes just gotta back yourself get tooled up and get stuck in. Then have a good holiday with the savings, or put the money towards something in the build where you definitely need a professional pair of hands. I would add, that with the technology and systems available on the market today it’s easier for the DIY’er to certainly tackle the basics.

initial thoughts are - I'd remove the bricks and the pir that's up against the screed, get some xps (marmox/jackoboard) etc cut and bond a couple of layers together so it's like a long plank put that into the cavity, create an upstand against the outer leaf and bond that to the plank you dropped into the cavity then fill with screed. Alternatively bond more layers of xps up to just under the screed level and pour some self leveller over it.

I do like them Beadmaster socket and switchbox covers, my only problem was cutting the holes for the backboxes too tight for them to fit so I had to spend a morning wizzing round trimming and cleaning up.

Yep, albeit on a pre-plumbed HW cylinder that never appeared. Easy and painless for me once I'd opened a claim and forwarded any communications I'd had with the supplier.

I'm looking at this and thinking if it would it be too simple to just forget the rafter extensions, insulate with PIR Board under the rafters then screw 3*1 or 4*1 timber through to the rafters above to accept plasterboard?

no, but you can fit a fan coil unit which uses the warmed ( or cooled) water from your ASHP CH system.

Thanks for that, I've got an overflow filler and a deck mounted showerhead. My main grumble is trying to reduce the amount of control clutter on the bath edge. Think I'm going to concede on this TBH and just look out for some dainty levers.

Anybody used a Mira or aqualisa digital control as a bath filler control, to be used with an overflow filler? Positive/Negative thoughts. For me I'm not overly bothered about the smart features, but rather the less cluttered look on and around the bath, which I'm aiming for. Ended up submitting twice as I backed the browser and submitted again - @mod please could you delete one

Anybody used a Mira or aqualisa digital control as a bath filler? Positive/Negative thoughts. For me I'm not overly bothered about the smart features, but rather the less cluttered look on and around the bath, which I'm aiming for.

Pradovent trimless, slightly more expensive, but look a bit more forgiving for installation. My plenums we installed a bit tight to joists so the ergovent became too much of a challenge, so I’m going to give the Pradovent a shot.

Another happy user with Starlink, anywhere between 180-290Mbps down 25Mbps ish up. No issues with it at all. Lad plays his games over it, fifa or whatever it's called, fortnite etc. Latency is not an issue.

OSB + PB, or just Fermcell, skim it and swallow the cost. Make it a nice space to use and work in, and give the walls the ability to hold tools/bike racks/ladder hangers.

I wonder if Ubiquiti would have something, without looking I dont know. But for the record I've just put in a couple of Wave Pro @ work to bridge a LAN to two in buildings that are on different sides of a road. Most bridge units use POE so the wired LAN is made use of for more than just comms.

looks logical, the cone chimney adapter seals the flue and directs any falling soot or detritus into the fire chamber. Regards smell, I'd probably make sure you have a flue temp sensor, and make sure there's a carbon monoxide sensor in the room. My stove smells a bit if I'm burning too hot for too long.

Dunno, hows your risk appetite? Check Ali express, i need to get some blinds for a triangle window. Custom size, and angled drops etc etc. They all Look very similar to ones being showcased on expensive uk websites. You do lose installer backup though if that’s important, for me I’m not bothered and take most things on at my own risk.

Without knowing the correct way yet…. I’d either fix my top u channel through plasterboard to the mf5 if there is a piece in the right place, or drop a piece of ply off-cut above the plasterboard to fix my top u channel too, it would mean putting the ply onto the plasterboard as the ceiling is going up, but where there’s a will there’s a way.

Shame about the existing 450, I know the image isnt to scale, but my thoughts before seeing the ‘existing’ text was spin it around, get it in line with the 300 and stp, have the two outlets from the house come in on side branches, with the main through flow run straight through from the 300 to the STP. Regards the tag on the treatment plant thread, Sorry, I’m still knocking my way through the build so it isnt in use yet.