crispy_wafer

Same, what they going to do if you forget the digger isn’t a zero tail swing jobbie and you accidentally take out a wall, then because safety reasons the whole structure had better come down.

I was thinking 100mm from hob, 300 from sink.

Would it still need to be plugged if there is a water seal in the drain trap?

22*75/100mm strips of timber perpendicular to the joists @ 400mm centres with packers to make a flat level surface, 75mm/100mm so there’s plenty of scope for not being just so with measurements for board endings. Or you could use res bar and pack out, or mf5 top hat and pack out.

Multitool with metal blade and cut each side of the cable into the grommet holes on either top or bottom whichever is easiest one cable out then the box will come out and the other cable will feed out. Or cut away more plaster and slowly tease and feed the cable backward into a U shape on the outer side of the box and pull slowly and gently try not to snag the cable and hope the rubber grommet protects against the sharp edges. There will be some making good required but that’s par for the course I’m afraid!

I agree with the man that says loctite 55 🤣, wrap it, tighten it, back it off so it points in the right direction job's a goodun. That said, not tried it with metal into hdpe.

Nice, I like this a lot

Can that section of floor be cut lifted and shimmed level? Would be my first thought. If not then slc over ply appears to be the method I read about most often. Only a DIY’er so take my thoughts with a pinch of salt

just to clarify for me, or to confirm, now that the picture shows more, you wanted to plumb the toilet into the the fitting into the cap? So the location of the pan will be there. And all that will be behind boxing when completed, yes? If that's the case I think there's a definately a way you can reconfigure that so you can bring the toilet exit horizontally with a slight fall and have the vertical stack interface so it doesnt impede or interupt the flush. Haven't got my crayons but that's where my mind is heading

Keep going, you’ll get there!

I’m sure I’ve read on here that others have lashed something up that resembles an access ramp to get through building control, then when building control have duly signed off, you can remove and get on with life!

if you can lay your hands on a big fan (machine mart), a sheet of osb or similar, cut osb to fit one of your window openings, cut a hole for the fan. Fan on full whack pointing outside, you’ll soon start to depressurise the house, then stick radio on and wander round finding sources of ingress.

If you mean someone to come out and do a test, I've used these guys in the past for a prelim airtest --> Building Compliance Design & Testing | Welcome to ATSPACE Believe they have testers dotted around the country.

Bit of investigation under the hood, the temp cover plate has stoppers in place, fired out like bullets when I removed the cover. Looks like i have to remove the stoppers and with there arrangement of the rubber edge gasket I can push water through to purge the pipes of any debris. Then I can fit a tap or something on the outlet and test each side with water.

Sorry Nick, I don't follow its one of these, v-box type affairs The inlets are connected and tested, The outlet to the hand held and overhead are connected into the valve. But there's a blanking plate currently stopping the inlets, passing to the outlet, which when finished I attach the hand controls to. The pipework from the outlet to the hand control and pipework to the overhead needs to be tested. --- Aah, could I test it in reverse? Air test it, From the overhead, or handheld outlet back to the v-box?

I've installed a concealed shower valve and want to pressure test the outlet 1/2" connections before tiling over. The inlets, no problem, I can remove the temp cover turn on water then refit the cover and leave the water on for a few days and monitor, or I can use my little air testing kit on the hot and cold runs and monitor. The outlets I've tested the pipework into the wall plate elbows and they are good, but that was before I made the final connection to the shower valve. How can I test the 1/2" connection out of the shower valve? Should I temp connect the control plate, put a stop after the wall outlet, or is there a way I'm not thinking of? Thanks. Marek

Back on this... finally found one close'ish to home so bought myself a 2nd hand - nearly new du-200, looking for disc recommendations please for porcelain 8mm through to 10-11mm, saved a chunk on the cutter so have some funds to invest in a good quality disc.

Thanks guys, I’m doing ok with bagged, not worried about it going ‘off’ really, it’s just I’ve a small amount of tiles to fit to finish off so I guess I need to master the art of a small batch mix.

I know bagged adhesive is the go to, but, for those moments when you are short on time or just fancy doing part of a job outside of a wet zone and don’t want to deal with cleaning down buckets and mixer is there any tubbed adhesive that can be used? Asking for a friend 😉

as suggested, as long as the fall is in the right direction at the base it'll be ok. The risers can be trimmed carefully so that they appear horizontal, like most things easier said than done though.

I'll do my best... starting from the floor Looking at the Block/Beam Floor schematic, we have Floorspan T4 type beams at 440 centres and suggest Medium density 1450kg/m3 blocks inlaid. Cannot recall exactly what they were, but they were heavy/white and dense jobbies DPM - 300mu 150mm PIR - Ecotherm - comprising of one layer. DPM - 300mu 70mm Cemfloor - no mesh, or fibres Staircase weight - I'm told 204kg. - Wooden Treads * 12 @ 18-20kg each I'm quoted, I havent got as far as having these made. The bottom 2 treads are box like bearing on the floor covering the base, before the rest of the treads that are designed to fit on plates. The plans suggest Structural steelwork to EXC3 Baseplate 600*350 * 8mm - the base plate would be perpendicular to the beams, will certainly straddle over one haha, I won't - Got door casings to fit so that's my next week planned.

there's the 4 in question, you know they are there because the staircase is due to have a wind at the base, and I left a nice big gap for a standard timber staircase to bear down away from pipework....

crikey, good job, well done you! I've got a very rough idea where my pipes are... and they are encased in conduit. So if it comes to it I could cut and excavate, but only really as a last resort.

Large plate as a load spreader to minimise point loads? The bottom tread is going/was planned to be an large oak box type affair, so depending on if the plate is recommended by the SE then its likely to be covered... We'll see

Yeah I realise the only real answer is an SE, but sometimes it's good to talk and get stuff out there even if it means admitting to not thinking something through... Anyhoo where there is a problem, there is often a solution and maybe, just maybe somebody on t'internet may have just come across a problem similar to this in the past. Appreciate the comments nonetheless and I don't take anything to heart. Am big enough and ugly enough to meet problems head on. And yeah a bungalow would solve the problem 🤣.