crispy_wafer

And… if you haven’t already have a browse of avforums.com the forum bit, and classifieds

Upgrade’ itis is strong with av use it to your advantage when looking at richer sounds/sevenoaks av.com, peter tyson etc they often have ex demo, trade in stuff at useful prices.

I went straight to floorspan, they did the design for me, supply only, or supply and install. Install is an easy task with two pairs of hands and something that can lift with a sling or two. End of the day, they are just like long concrete fence posts... image attached from back in the days before covid! approx 200sq/m

yeah, but, being the daft smart arse i am, I've already boarded half the wall upto 1.2m, as I could handle the 20mm ish runout. Good idea though! I'm thinking I could slap some bonding coat on the wall, but I dont know if (A) I can d&d over it (B) if that is the right product to use?

Morning folks, I’m creeping slowly towards the end of my dot and dab journey, saving the best till near the end. I’ve got a block internal wall that runs out of plumb by approx 35mm. I’m confident enough to handle 20mm out of plumb without over pressing the board into the dabs, but 35mm is too much for me to deal with. I’m thinking if its possible to trowel something onto the wall to take out the worst of it say 10-15mm or so before attempting to board it. If so, what bagged product should i ask for at the merchants? Thanks Marek

Got the dewalt battery first fix gun myself, I find it heavy, but don’t know how it compares. It’s ok really! Have a think, if it’s a job you are going to rip through and complete in a week or two, then hire. If you are going to bit and bob it, then buy one for the convenience.

Most situations have been handled before, pavingexpert is pretty damn good on this sort of stuff. Is it a catch pit chamber you need?

Quick example of a backdrop to go with the example image above Got two inspection chambers with inlets from the build at two levels (excuse the weed’s) drops 300mm ish for another inlet before heading to the treatment plant. Hopefully it gives you a brief idea of what’s going on! Hardest bit was sealing of the stopper pipe through the riser. Liberal use of BT1 smeared on both sides before backfilling.

It’s very achievable, the only problem being time, don’t set unrealistic time targets. I’m not flogging myself into the ground either, as a family we’ve got to live life too, that’s how I’ve gone about it. ive made mistakes, but nothing expensive in terms of material cost, just time! Be prepared to learn, mistakes happen, but hey, so what, we keep fighting, and we’ll do better next time. If you get p’ssed off, tools down shut the door go and have a cuppa.

Brick/block 200 sq/m and about 215k flooring/kitchen/skimming and bathrooms to finish and this is me diying it from watertight. Targeting < 250k, but we will be taking a kitchen from rehome etc as this will see us through 5 years or so till I’ve got money for replacement, but even saying that if we choose wisely it could be longer. Not really skimped on anything other than trades so far. 5yrs and counting 🤣

Thanks @Nickfromwales, So I think a nice wide stripe of adhesive at about 900mm and about 2000mm from FFL should tick the boxes for now.

Looking to start dabbing the kitchen this weekend. I'm getting pretty good (i think!) at laying the adhesive on the walls as a frame with intermediate stripes of adhesive vertically at 400 and 800. With me moving onto the kitchen should I be considering adding more adhesive in horizontal stripes for fixing cabinets?

if you are speaking to the dno, they may well be fitting 3ph cutouts as standard now, you'd probably only need 100A for domestic use. However as time goes on you may end up with electric vehicles, faster charging may be a nice to have, so being able to pull from the 3 phases would benefit

Pretty much set and forget, set the firmware to update once a month, do a backup once a month, have a spare on the shelf ready to go JIC. Job's a goodun! Needs no extra input from me, just as it should be!!! VLANS set on the l3 switch passed through to the AP's for various subnets work no problem. Pretty happy with it to be honest.

access points on POE switches is how I do it at work. I run Unifi network server as an app on a general purpose utility server VM. Run a mix of AP's across the factory and offices. Switches for what it's worth are all HPE or Aruba

I’ll bag a t shirt or two… 5 years in here, cliche, but want to be in for this winter, well the heating season, I’ve had enough of overwintering in the bungalow. Had ideas at the start, that we’d get watertight then I’d manage trades, but then a financial reality check with how much trades want to charge and a big I can do that attitude! Means I’m doing it myself, the grunt work, like running cables, routing plumbing, installing mvhr, knocking up stud walls, res bar, mf ceilings, battening out for a flat plasterboard surface, boarding ceilings etc. Why the F would I pay someone to do that, I’d only be sat on my arse putting on timber. &nbsp The slowness of my pace has allowed me to do jobs and pay for materials out of my salary, leaving the build fund in the bank for emergencies. Truth be told though, I’m about ready for a holiday!

Lovely job, I like! Suits your place nicely.

Indeed, right of passage for any self builder. Sounds like you have plenty of room to practice.

Christ alive, indeed, yes, I’m sure it can be done cheaper, so what about 20m2 ish, quick search suggests 150 per m3 for crates, but i bet cheaper if bought from your local civils place. Then backfill with pea gravel, hire in a machine for a weekend. Back of hand calcs suggest less than half your 8k, or am i being optimistic

yep this, like most things, would these days cost more in labour than materials.

You'd need to run the pipes into something to allow the rainwater out, so some form of soakaway with crates, terram, and gravel should suffice. What would you deem as expensive? Have building control indicated anything size wise?

Yep graphite stuff will be your friend for this. This is what I have to use on my locks once a year to keep it smooth. https://www.ultion-lock.co.uk/product/ultion-lock-lubricant/

You will be fine, I remember mine being like a scene from a submarine movie when I put water into it the first time... It's all good experience in the bank.

Mine was accessible, but then I was in with the screeders with my wellies on taking pictures and videos of the pour slopping around in it. It was only after a few hours when I went to have a look at my screed did I clock that the temperature had risen and I ought to check the ufh to double check we hadnt done any damage noticed the gauge was now at a higher bar number than I'd left it, so I cracked it a touch to relieve some pressure from the system.

yes, plenty tough! You'll do well to damage them to be honest