crispy_wafer

Aico are about 150mm Dia, so a 50-60mm hole for hiding/retrieving a driver should give you room for fitting the smoke alarm base, if you cant use the manufacturers holes then I doubt you’ll get shot for making your own fixing holes.

As my MVHR unit is loft based, I constructed a small floor to ceiling cupboard in my sons room for shoes and the like. At the back of this is a 300mm*500mm void which I pass a bunch of ducts and an SVP stuffed with sound insulation as best i could. All through egger ontop of posi's. Personally I wouldn't cut each hole individually. Edit, All this is within the heated envelope of the house.

I’ve not seen a base like that one tbf, being pragmatic about it, if it’s grey water and it flows without stalling then I don’t see a reason to change. Don’t understand why you’d need a swept bend, the chamber is fine as that provides a bend between in and out.

Just trying to figure something out and could do with some confirmation. I have an island and it will have a worktop downturn at both ends. Do I still need end panels? I'm thinking not. But I've been sent a couple, and am trying to work out whether to raise a return or not...

used 22*100 rough sawn here, 22*75 may have been better, but it gave plenty of scope for board ends... Other thing I'd note would be working out lamp, mvhr duct, aircon, speaker placement beforehand to eliminate any potential clashes.

Trimmed some end panels and have some non faced edges that I’d like to protect. once upon a time it used to be pva that was used to protect them. But since times have moved on and it’s been shown that pva is no good around moisture could I paint on sbr instead? I’m guessing at this point so please put me straight 👍. ta, marek

Cheers, I'll have a go at that...

When joining kitchen units together, is there a standard practice for placement of connectors. I'll be putting one connector behind the back panel... Ta

Straight away, so likely my fault, or has been pointed out the wrong washer used!

Probably not... Application was both gerberit, and grohe cisterns...

I didnt have a great deal of success with those fittings, I'm sure they are fine but this ham fisted eejit had a failure on the washer. I used the 1/2" to 15 female coupler with a street elbow instead.

potentially use a 2 gang socket extension to bring out the metal work form the backbox that you use to fill into and upto, then remove when all filler is dried. ML Accessories | 2G16EXT | 2G 16mm Galvanised Steel Skeleton Extension Box | Superlec Direct

Number 4 for me

5, if the same as jackoboards, their instructions suggest one in each of the corners and 1 to the middle.

Apologies for butting in, this PVA, is this the same as the contractors liquid PVA that you dilute down, or is this special thicker stuff specifically used as a glue?

I've taken to using a spare empty/clean 10l paint tub and a drill attached paint mixing tool to mix up small batches. Just made peace with the fact that there will be a bit of wastage. Bag of adhesive @ £18 vs CT1 @ £13, my wallet says stay with the bag of adhesive.

gpt reckons vinegar, or citric acid and leave for 10 minutes to try and dissolve the calcium deposits... Might need a few repeats.

bigger plantpot = what stain 🤣

Upstairs Bathroom floor, leads onto landing. Bathroom floor will be tiles, landing will be something else and there will likely be a transition strip. The door casing is such that the door will be inward opening. I'm trying to set out the tiles for the floor, but am coming a little unstuck on where the transition from tiles to the other flooring ought to be... What do tilers usually do? Tile to outer edge of door (Landing side)? Inner edge? To the Centre line?

when sat into a worktop and supported on all 4 edges it'll be fine.

What have you used for the grey panel?

Same here, but I’ve added utility sink too just because rising main is under there and I couldn’t think of a compelling reason to soften the utility cold.

used mlcp for my upstairs bathroom rad installs, used geberit press chrome pipe tails. used mlcp because roll ends left over from ufh install. Already have a press tool, so found and bought the required jaw from ebay. That said, I'm not sure I'd go out my way to specifically install mlcp, I only did to get rid of them 15-20m sections of pipe I had left over!

Better!

what the feck on earth is that?