crispy_wafer

When i knocked mine out, i spoke to huepar about whether I could adjust it. They asked me to send a video of me running the calibration check, they agreed it was off and sent me a new one FOC, it was within a year of buying it, but still, that surprised me.

There’s enough on this forum to get a good grasp of what to do, if you are minded to give it a shot. in fact, I remember reading the forum in it’s early days there were many buildhubbers mapping out schematics and getting hints, tips and advice on how to go about it. I won’t be rude and say that it’s just a load of pipes, because beyond there’s much more to it, and it does require thought and planning, but like above, sometimes just gotta back yourself get tooled up and get stuck in. Then have a good holiday with the savings, or put the money towards something in the build where you definitely need a professional pair of hands. I would add, that with the technology and systems available on the market today it’s easier for the DIY’er to certainly tackle the basics.

initial thoughts are - I'd remove the bricks and the pir that's up against the screed, get some xps (marmox/jackoboard) etc cut and bond a couple of layers together so it's like a long plank put that into the cavity, create an upstand against the outer leaf and bond that to the plank you dropped into the cavity then fill with screed. Alternatively bond more layers of xps up to just under the screed level and pour some self leveller over it.

I do like them Beadmaster socket and switchbox covers, my only problem was cutting the holes for the backboxes too tight for them to fit so I had to spend a morning wizzing round trimming and cleaning up.

Yep, albeit on a pre-plumbed HW cylinder that never appeared. Easy and painless for me once I'd opened a claim and forwarded any communications I'd had with the supplier.

I'm looking at this and thinking if it would it be too simple to just forget the rafter extensions, insulate with PIR Board under the rafters then screw 3*1 or 4*1 timber through to the rafters above to accept plasterboard?

no, but you can fit a fan coil unit which uses the warmed ( or cooled) water from your ASHP CH system.

Thanks for that, I've got an overflow filler and a deck mounted showerhead. My main grumble is trying to reduce the amount of control clutter on the bath edge. Think I'm going to concede on this TBH and just look out for some dainty levers.

Anybody used a Mira or aqualisa digital control as a bath filler control, to be used with an overflow filler? Positive/Negative thoughts. For me I'm not overly bothered about the smart features, but rather the less cluttered look on and around the bath, which I'm aiming for. Ended up submitting twice as I backed the browser and submitted again - @mod please could you delete one

Anybody used a Mira or aqualisa digital control as a bath filler? Positive/Negative thoughts. For me I'm not overly bothered about the smart features, but rather the less cluttered look on and around the bath, which I'm aiming for.

Pradovent trimless, slightly more expensive, but look a bit more forgiving for installation. My plenums we installed a bit tight to joists so the ergovent became too much of a challenge, so I’m going to give the Pradovent a shot.

Another happy user with Starlink, anywhere between 180-290Mbps down 25Mbps ish up. No issues with it at all. Lad plays his games over it, fifa or whatever it's called, fortnite etc. Latency is not an issue.

OSB + PB, or just Fermcell, skim it and swallow the cost. Make it a nice space to use and work in, and give the walls the ability to hold tools/bike racks/ladder hangers.

I wonder if Ubiquiti would have something, without looking I dont know. But for the record I've just put in a couple of Wave Pro @ work to bridge a LAN to two in buildings that are on different sides of a road. Most bridge units use POE so the wired LAN is made use of for more than just comms.

looks logical, the cone chimney adapter seals the flue and directs any falling soot or detritus into the fire chamber. Regards smell, I'd probably make sure you have a flue temp sensor, and make sure there's a carbon monoxide sensor in the room. My stove smells a bit if I'm burning too hot for too long.

Dunno, hows your risk appetite? Check Ali express, i need to get some blinds for a triangle window. Custom size, and angled drops etc etc. They all Look very similar to ones being showcased on expensive uk websites. You do lose installer backup though if that’s important, for me I’m not bothered and take most things on at my own risk.

Without knowing the correct way yet…. I’d either fix my top u channel through plasterboard to the mf5 if there is a piece in the right place, or drop a piece of ply off-cut above the plasterboard to fix my top u channel too, it would mean putting the ply onto the plasterboard as the ceiling is going up, but where there’s a will there’s a way.

only bosch kit I've encountered is the bosch professional range, but that's woodworking/joinery, not groundscare/maintenance, sorry!

Shame about the existing 450, I know the image isnt to scale, but my thoughts before seeing the ‘existing’ text was spin it around, get it in line with the 300 and stp, have the two outlets from the house come in on side branches, with the main through flow run straight through from the 300 to the STP. Regards the tag on the treatment plant thread, Sorry, I’m still knocking my way through the build so it isnt in use yet.

Others may, or may not agree. But my honest opinion is to go for a ‘brand’ for tools to do this kind of job. Stihl, Husqvarna, Tanaka, Echo, Honda etc. This isnt borne out of snobbery, but rather all that wasted effort, and sore elbows/shoulders spent trying to start and use machines that are poorly built have crap weight distribution and whose carburettors need swapping after 2 years because they are cheap pattern parts from some low cost country. A lot of my equipment is ex council/grounds clearance company bought 2nd hand from the same shop on eBay, so can be done on budget. I’ve been bitten by the buy cheap buy twice thing. Mculloch chainsaws, Ryobi 2 stroke split shaft trimmer/brushcutter multi tool thing, cobra long reach trimmer! Hire something for the weekend, smash through it. Keep on top of it. Spray it with a selective weed killer when it shows signs of coming back ( Grazon something or other) is what I use, then mow it, and keep mowing it! Been at this game for long enough, and reading replies from others they have similar experiences too!

Yep, but still expect it to be tough going, long stuff likes to tangle and snag round the head. Patience and technique.

Spray it and tear through it with a small excavator, small tractor with a bucket or ride on mower is what I’d do. If I couldn’t do that then the brush cutter with blade would come out to play! Being honest, the Plastic grass trimmer isn’t the tool for this job.

CT1 or adhesive and a bit of batten straddling the trim, screwed to the wall above and below, until the adhesive is set, - The batten wont touch the wall, and you will need longish screws. Fill holes and make good afterwards.

You have a right to be concerned, but does it really affect you? Personally, I'd just let them get on with it. Like the fella on a motorcycle wizzing past me at 90mph plus (guess), concerned - yes, affect me - no, let em get on with it.

Love it, well done.