crispy_wafer

I've given that some thought too (the framing, that is)! I've got a smallish wall in the dormer bedroom to attach, couple of sheets trimmed down will do it, I cant really bugger that up. That'll keep the Mrs. happy as then it's one area that'll look something like a room 🤣. You'll have to pop your thoughts in your thread about the wall liner system, ease of use, gotchas etc. I've got a block wall downstairs that will be lined as I've got 28mm copper pipework to my UFH manifold down it to conceal as my staircase is now going to be an open tread jobby and don't want to my lovely pipework on show..

Simple really, what's the best/easiest trowel to use to get the muck from the bucket onto the wall? Had a go with a plasterers/finishing trowel and hawk which is all I have and while I managed to get adhesive on the wall I struggled with consistency in size of the dabs... I mean the finished result was fine, just felt a harder job than it ought to be. Could be this apprentices cack handed technique too! Many Thanks Marek

would say any of the cement fibre boards eg hardie and others would be suitable. No experience myself so would wait for someone who has trodden this path before to chime in. What's the substrate?

I think if you attach your gl1 bracket quite low/close to the track that would give additional support to the pu glue

pu adhesive I think @nod has suggested in the past, when peeps dont want to drill because of UFH pipework under studwalls, is this for the wall liner system?

We used APR in the ceilings along with res bar, saved the RWA for the walls. RWA in the ceilings would have been a ballache... RWA is fairly rigid so offcuts will hold when pressed against each other, however once you get a row in place I'd recommend you be careful if you try to adjust it's positioning as it'll all move!

Very nice, You've still maintained symmetry so it's not so bad, Maybe just space the windows further apart so that they are above the sidelights on the downstairs french doors instead. Once it's built though, you'll not really notice after the first few months!

Beams are typically placed on blocks over here and spaced out to suit the loading above and length/width of block infill. Cutting a channel into foundation blocks for the steel? Got to ask why? Is this structural engineer designed?

Yes, same thoughts as being a potential customer. I was looking into reducing the overall volume that a HW cylinder would take up in my plant cupboard, Sunamp would be ideal, however not so much if it ends up as landfill and costing me £'s in disposal and cleanup is relatively short time.

Illbruck fm330 is the go to, Soudal do one aswell.

Haha no, it’s all good 👍

What I did, now curious to see @nod response what I did do, was make any joints so they all didn’t appear in a line so on one row of mf7 the join would be near one wall, and the next row, the mf7 join would be near t’ other wall

if it's two sets of identical staircases, I'd be tempted to give stairbox/tk or one of the others a call, might just get a discount on account of only a single setup of the cnc machines. Nice project to go at if you've got the skills and tools, but one wrong cut could consign material to the use that for something else pile!

I've used efans, and ventilationland aswell as bpc and blauberg.

Any use?

I suppose if you make sure your plasterboards are cut above the floor, so no danger of sucking up moisture then as you say, protect and crack on.

So making a bit of progress. Busy working with the design guy at the fabricators. Here's a drawing that I've coloured in. Not spectacular, but I think will be a nice feature when complete. Got the balustrade to think about. I'm thinking steelwork, 3 flat plate, or bar per step with an timber capping. Not a big fan of glass, too much to clean.

Something I'm looking at too, so far I've landed at about £1100 for a single custom sized door. Vufold I think it was, no idea if they are good/bad/in the middle. That's as far as I have got, so will delve deeper and find others when the time comes.

SE - Structural Engineer Topo - Topographical survey

If you are fixing into blocks you won’t need hammer on the drill, I’d be tempted to just try an hss bit somewhere, or just get an sds bit and stick that in the Chuck of your normal drill, an sds machine might just be a bit brutal.

can recommend the the blue bosch expert drill bits, brilliant! saves having to climb up and down ladders to fetch or carry 2 drills, especially when metal and masonry is involved.

A google search for internal steel doors reveals some good results, good pictures too, which give me an idea of what I might be looking for.

👍 for the plan of attack, 🤣 for having to spend time with the family

Seasons greetings. Might be one for the OMG why’s he done that thread… Anyway, the house is coming together very slowly and I’m now starting to really think about doors and stuff. Downstairs is pretty open, no private rooms as such apart the w/c which will have a conventional wooden door liner and door, all other rooms, it’s open season and glazed doors will be the plan. My opening depths range from a couple at 150mm to 300mm through a cavity wall. I don’t mind wooden door linings, it’s just I’d like to consider alternatives. Rather than hit up the tried and tested timber door linings, I fancy something different. Is there a narrow door frame system that would say fix into the opening, allowing me to plasterboard through the openings? I got this idea when I was sat looking at the my external aluminium external door, the frame isn’t very deep, and this look appealed to me. Is there such a door product for inside?

my first hangers were about 300mm ish, as I screwed to joists which were already spaced, then hangers every 600-800mm, mf7 was again about 600-800mm. Odd spacing every now and then to cater for lighting. Top hat was then at 400 centres. Sometimes had to adjust or double up again so lights/mvhr/ac/speakers didnt clash. A handful of my boards I’ve trimmed down to fit the top hat spacing too. So 300, and about 600 from the wall.