Dee

I'm using concrete plain tiles

Good resource but Doesn't 't really tell me what I need to know. Can I cut soakers out of dpc with the upstand fitting under the cladding?

I'm clueless here! I have some lead sheet, I'm laying a traditional tiled valley and I assume there must be some lead under the first row of valley /tile and a half to create water run off ? Advice please... Images would be even better.... Sorry to be a pain!

I'm rarely right, but apparently I did marry Mr Right haha. I shall wait for two samples of Marley tiles to arrive and I think that will put an end to the debate... Apparently there's a 14/16 week lead time on stocks! Ain't waiting that long

I'm rarely right, but apparently I did marry Mr Right haha. I shall wait for two samples of Marley tiles to arrive and I think that will put an end to the debate... Apparently there's a 14/16 week lead time on stocks! Ain't waiting that long

That's an option but to have to get Scaffold back, basically redo roof doesn't fill me with glee

Tried that last approach but he is a perfectionist and I'm just the hired help! What's a girl to do!

So, for those of you who have answered a myriad of questions regarding the dormer and the ongoing search for reclaimed concrete tile and a half. The issue is that I have had to resort to using reclaimed Clay tile and a half... I can live with the change in thickness... What are the inherent problems of mixing the two? . Will they weather differently to concrete? Also lead work under valley tiles...???

Good point.... I feel better now!

And I don't understand why the bonnets don't kick up more. The others I've seen sit virtually horizontal

@bassanclan You've spotted the deliberate mistake! I tried to do as I went on the last.. and only other hip....I did and I made a total fist of it. So this time I'm doing it at the end in one go as it's such a small roof.

@PeterW An update for those who have given me such great advice and support... Thank you!

@PeterW I've set out 4 rows on the front face with each row decreasing by one tile as I progress upwards.... But it's getting gappy! And without tile and a half I'm left with a gap of about 65mm.a time cut to that would look bodged or not? Losing the will to live /tile!

@PeterW @MikeSharp01 Yes I have put a double row at the eves. I think I'm going to have to live with an uneven side lap as I all my very comprehensive search for reclaimed concrete plain tile and a half has resulted in a grand total of 11 tiles!!! Thanks for everyone input

@PeterW. I assume they are bonnets! I thought arris had a sharp angle on them.... I must admit mine don't kick atall

@PeterW. the hip batton is 25mm deep, same as the others. It looks deeper because the batton to the right had sunk, it's the same now I've corrected it ... What's the solution? @Onoff. Both roofs are the same angle 45 degrees The bonnets don't pitch up as much as the other roofs I've seen. I've devoured Gare, useful visual

So, started laying roof tiles on small hip dormer reusing plain concrete tile etc. Battons matched to original roof which has dictated the gauge on the dormer The problem is this.... Got as far as only the second row of tiles and the bond is off... 1/3 and 2/3 (see image) Laying the tiles left to right and it works out to an exact number of full tiles. What am I doing wrong?

@CC45. In the end we cut continuous wedges (one on each side) to rest the eaves tiles on and to give a kick.... Problem though.... The kick is 50mm high and today I set the first eaves tiles and the first bonnets on the first batton but the first full tiles don't hook over the batton above , the angle is either too steep or the kick really needs to be about another 20mm higher! But if I did this it would cause a dip in the felt and any water would puddle.... Does that make sense? At a loss

Would the kick effect the angle of the tile against the bonnet tile? It would be a very simply solution.. Thanks

@CC45. I get what you're saying but I've already cut the rafters to allow for the overhang and its pretty tight so I don't think I've got the distance to do it....the dormer is about 2. 4m sq at eaves so could I run a continuous wedge on top of and along the rafters to support the tiles

@ProDave. Can you help me with a problem? I don't know what to do about Lead flashing where the valleys begin... Goes under the overhang and to the cheeks. No such thing on similar but much older dormers along my road... Confused

Er, that's our Heath Robinson 'second lift' Scaffold...

Not capping but a complete new installation.... Thanks for confirming

Roof is buttoned and ready to tile On past projects using timber fascias I installed them before tiling yet I've read that with plastic it goes on after tiling... Advise please

Slow but sure and ready to start tiling tomorrow.