Pocster

Lol ; I’d make sure I drill through a block and not a beam

I have beam and block flooring in already . so it didn’t seem a bad idea in the sense I have to drill through that anyway ....

Hey all! Perhaps that's not the best title Right!; I'm' about to plan my UFH layout. My intention was to connect zip tiles to the UFH pipes that can stick up through the screed so I can see the area's that are free from pipework. I was then considering (when ready!) to do tiling on the floor and THEN drill holes for waste/pipework etc . through the floor. This a better plan than drilling now and hoping they are in the right place? (they are never in the right place are they!) Was looking at the cheap water cooled drills on eBay (better than hiring I always think as can sell on); I need to drill mainly floors but some walls through reinforced concrete so need to mount vertically and horizontally. Good plan?, bad plan? or just a plan! Cheers

No idea ! the board spec seems to cover pretty much everything- k rend or similar

More board up some of my ‘ expansion gaps ‘ are a bit wider than the recommended 4mm . If the guy rendering complains I’ll fix them . no zooming in !!! ?

First board on

Did membrane anyway

Ok somwtimes i see this and sometimes I don’t you mean the same as a breathable roofing membrane ??

I’ve confused myself I have vertical with horizontal on top both In filled with insulation ; so no air gap so then I need vertical again , but also horizontal for the cladding to fix vertically if that makes sense !!

Thanks pro Dave both options sound like work ?

How do the cat 5/6 connect to the patch box ??

Oh no ! Punch down tool ! though the professional one looked good unlike the crappy plastic push things ....

Thanks js that’s really helpful but I’ve got around 30 cables coming back to a bridge . Surely I don’t do 30 face plates ? . What’s the solution for lots of cat 5 ? cheers

Hey all so ! I need to wire my house for cat 5 rather than buy pre made cables of undoubtedly the wrong length - how do I make my own ? its not like the old push wire in between 2 bits of metal like old phone wiring it it ? ( hated that ) so a good quick reliable method to stick rj45 plugs on the end of everything. What’s the current method ??? cheers

Or ! A vertical timber for every vertical clad ? limits the air flow but better than nothing and provides strength . Did think of some c stud metal - but as no board to make it rigid - not so sure on it .

This front section is more complex because it’s a mix of render board and cladding . the rear is just cladding - vertically I guess ? im guessing you aren’t meant to fix timber against a structure horizontally first ? ( water sitting on it ?? )

My wife wants the cedral board mounted vertically - which causes issues at the moment I have vertical timber with pir infill then horizontal with pir infill ( infill not done yet ) so my insulation is 100 mm I guess I need to now do vertical again and then do horizontal again on top - so I have the required air gap behind the boards . Timber alone adds up to 200mm of thickness is this correct ? . Of course if the board was mounted horizontal it would save the final horizontal run .....

Though why not just do horizontal with vertical ontop ?

Hey all! Just want to check I've got this correct before proceeding! using http://www.resistant.co.uk/render-carrier-multi-rend/ So!; horizontal 50x50 battons. Infill with 50mm PIR vertical 50x75 battons (no more than 600mm apart) ; infix 50mm PIR dpc run just down each vertical batton? ; not DPM across the whole lot?? render board onto battons (will have a 25mm cavity for air circulation behind). Render board fittings all with a 4mm gap between (so no butting together). 4mm gap at edges (e.g. soffit etc) Rodent mesh at top and bottom Timer and render board ends above timber frame DPC. Was going to make sure a vertical batton is at the edge of any doorways/windows. Anything else I could consider or have missed??? OH!; I assume the 'printed surface' is the facing out surface yes? (with company logo/info etc. on it....)

But looks sooooooo good !

Lol Swmbo a slave to fashion !! Lol i do like handleless because of the minimal look ; but practicalities must override . I assume there’s no such thing as a handless dishwasher cabinet door ..... ??

True. Always seemed a bit strange too me as everyone is 'fire hazard worried' (hood above a ceiling speaker!); guess I'd needn't worry though :-)))) Cheers

Wickes and B&Q were good quality ?. Forgive my snobbery! ; I just assumed they were inferior..... but perhaps not!

I think my real concern is (which I guess isn't a problem) ; that a socket box was allowed against PIR (as that's flammable).... thinking of BCO.....

Looked at the following online; anyone used these would appreciate any feedback... http://www.betterkitchens.co.uk/shop/product/albero-755 https://www.nationalkitchens.co.uk/milan-cashmere-gloss-handleless.html https://www.kitchencollection.co.uk/Shop/Products/Kitchen+Collection+Catalog/True+Handleless/True_Handleless_Price_Band_Eight/Tomba_Matt_Painted_True_Handleless/Default.aspx