Pocster

I’m going to install it and yes at 2k return on investment will be sometime but that is based on water costs *today* . You use more than you think and as just 2 adults could skip it . But hey ! Awkward to retro fit and helps save the plant a tiny tiny bit . I’d pay for this, AShp , pv , pv battery etc . Anything to get off grid as much as possible . I guess if cost is the issue then at least put the pipe work in ready for a harvesting tank at a later date . But as a self build I always take the 20% vat back ( discount ) as a once in a lifetime offer . Call them up and haggle the price down ! This works surprisingly often on the premis you will pay now over the phone . its a simple technology ( tank and pump ) ; take the opportunity while you can would be my advice ?

Done just so I can bitch at the council planning ....

Block paving kerbs

Thanks What would the dry mix consist of ??

Hey all Got some of these little blighties to fit I assume they need cement in between and not touching each other . Whats the best way to do this ? I’m assuming any cement on the face will stain and look a bloody mess ? Could masking tape each block - but that can’t be right can it ? ? Cement inbetween as I lay or point afterwards with cement ???? cheers

Stretch away people ! my neighbours complained on “ dangerous structure “ ( lie ) , “ knocked down wrong wall “ ( only 2 walls both mine ) etc etc etc for years . So when through intent or accidentally it’s a bit wider , or higher then screw them ! . One of our neighbors put a fence up against a public highway ; it was 7ft tall. Regs are 6ft , they had an enforcement officer out . We got to *support* them twice , our current home and our new build . As soon as we are 60cm or so higher they object and we have enforcement guy round ! hypocrits !. So push for a bit more ! :-) admitedly underground we doubled - but hey neighbor- can’t complain about what you can’t see ??????

I’d double the size then ! ?

Also the enforcement notice guy ( he’s been out a few times ) took into account ‘ intent’ . If the builds higher what do I gain ? . Nothing . I can’t stick some dormers in and have a loft room as the head height is way to low . So though higher and not deliberate there’s no benefit too me . I think they are fairly broad minded on slight deviations from plans ....

Also when you get planning I can easily get confused by internal and external measurement :/) too be fair - my builds higher because the trusses turned up wrong !!!

Mine grew ( tape measure stretches in heat ) by 30cm wider , 50 cm taller , 100cm longer ...... ?

Checked out your blog on this. Very nice! Indeed the up stand doesn't seem the most complex thing to build (not even for me!). I guess the real key is that the EDPM goes at least half way up it.

Right!, Been looking into this more!. Certainly not paying nearly 1K for 4 up stands! They do seem simple enough to build. My plan, (I need to gain maybe 25cm). Is to put concrete blocks around the opening then make wooden 'wedges' to gain the slope. Wedges can be 'open' so insulation can be inserted. Ply on both sides to hold insulation in place. Also (as this is a driveway i.e. with chipping for driveway blocks) ; insulation outside around the upstand to increase u but also to protect EDPM from chipping. Internally insulated plasterboard up to glass. Hence why a good few companies don't sell up stands (I guess no-one pays 200 quid for 4 bits of wood!)

Here's the architects 'spec'. Not sure why we have the expensive Marmox thermoblock there?. There's no load bearing - so why not just continue the insulation across and up?? (cladding at base for example)

So battons over the 'final' pir - plasterboard fixing to that?

Ok!; anyway!; back to my original problem Insulation between rafters ; 50mm over the lot. Plasterboard fixes how?. The point of the 50mm over is to avoid all thermal bridges; so just upping with timber battons I guess doesn't help. Cheers

Actually in Florida for example virtually all builds are timber frame . Inside nice smooth walls no joins or cracks . Weather can change rapidly in temperature from lovely sunny to actually cold with a torrential down pour . So the frame must be moving . What do they do ? Any Florida house builders here ??? ?

Lol ! i know some of my limits ! Wouldn’t even attempt it !! . You would of thought though some resin type flexible wall screed existed by now . Can you not just invent one and go on dragons den for funding ? ?

Lol mine went to a vote with Bristol council after 5 years ! . Chairman abstained with a 4 - 3 in favour majority . If he had voted against would of been 4 - 4 ; then he gets to vote again !! ??

Top stuff ! i took 5 years to get planning and even recorded some of council “meetings” . Because if they don’t like you it’s a hard fight . Perseverance wins as you wear your opponent down . Now you’ve got planning the next stage of fun begins !!!

Slow I can do ?

No ones invented breathable flexible internal render ? why not ?

I think my architect wanted no thermal bridge . Insulation in between rafters then 50mm over that and the rafter edges . so complete insulation back to back

You would of thought there would be some internal render with some form of flexibility by now ? Im sure others will jump in with a solution . Like you I hate the cracks ! Brand new build should have no cracks ever ?

Drying to quick ? . Or if sun light is hitting one part and not another will cause shrinkage !!

Hey all my spec shows insulation in between rafters then 50mm over that whole thing finished with taped joints . So when I plasterboard I just screw straight through the pir into the timber ? . I’m worried on a timber frame build that once skimmed there’s bound to be some movement and plaster cracks ? even on a masonry build you always get hair line cracks where ceiling meets external wall . There a simple trick to avoid this ? Just calk the edges ??? just assume chance of skimming cracking higher on timber frame build .... cheers