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Everything posted by Pocster
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Yeah I did think of this its a bit awkward but not impossible..... ?
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Nope block paving doesn’t touch membrane on up stands . I haunged concrete at base of membrane around upstands deliberately to avoid this . Also I even put another ‘rim’ of membrane around each upstand ( that’s why some look so rough - it’s my extra rim you see )
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It’s more than possible I guess that water has been getting under the rubber since it was installed . But this can only be at the edges as slab was tested . probably just coincidence I notice water once block paving started and so assumed up stands .
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All of this has been tested During summer ( ie no rain ) I flooded the site for 4 days no leaks . ive just happened to notice while I started the paving the leaks and assumed my upstands . But it’s not then . Flashing will be above paving . It’s not a straightforward flat roof .... So I know the ‘slab’ doesn’t leak . But edges - it’s possible . Will continue the block paving in the other direction I.e towards wall where flashing will be . Then I can see if that flashing makes a difference .
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Right I’ll continue with the block paving because I can’t do the flashing until that’s complete . Hoping when that’s done damp stops .....
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Sure thing. Problem is even if I do that and lets assume the damp stops I'll be paranoid and will tank it anyway ?
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You are probably right ; should use the silicone sealant for securing frame to upstand . None the less that doesn’t seem to be the water ingress issue ?
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Another possible water entry point is of course my rubber at the edges . Going to flash this ( mentioned in another thread ) - but can’t do that until paving down . Rain hits stone wall and currently would run straight under rubber ..... So perhaps I’m overly concerned with so many ‘holes’ in the build . Mind you would sleep easier if there was no damp .....
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The rubber roofing did go up over the upstands . I tested this with no issues . I will use this window as my test . So tank the ceiling and upstand . Refit frame with tons of ct1 between it and upstand . Refit glass with silicone again - then leave and wait for rain ( shouldn’t be long ) . If it stays dry for a month will re do all the units ? Like I said damp appears to be coming in half way through not from the top .
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Tried flooding around it . Nothing obvious . Though the block work is still damp so hard to tell . What I have noticed on this window and others are track lines at the corners . Like a hairline crack in the concrete . Presumably somewhere water gets under the rubber and finds these corners . Tanking looks like my best solution
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Just spoke to permaguard ( other companies exist ? ) . Tanking slurry mix on the ceiling and upstands was his suggestion . Though the ceiling is flat and I need to key it ‘somehow ‘ . I’m willing to try anything but how do I key a flat concrete ceiling ??? f^xking hate water - always a bitch !!
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I’ve got s bad feeling it’s getting under the rubber . Before any paving or concrete I.e just the rubber I flooded the entire area and left it for days . Not a drop got through . But I *guess* block paving changes any water flow . Beneath this ( underground ) I have the dimpled membrane on the walls which would lead to an internal drain and then pump . Was always in the back of my mind to ‘somehow’ get this over the ceiling also . Looks like I might have to anyway . Though it’s not designed for that unless you have a nice curved cellar ....
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It’s strange looking at that concrete block to the right - it’s damp . But no water from above . Like it’s soaked ‘through’ it rather than over it . Of course it’s part of the upstand and has the rubber going over it . So not sure ... Timber and rubber above bone dry ...
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Well i managed to get the smaller window out which does leak . looking at it - hard to imagine the water level got that high I.e over the black rubber . Some photos - perhaps someone will see something I haven’t cheers
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Thanks which one ? I assume stuck on the underside of the T frame so it expands towards the upstand ?
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http://expandingfoamtape.co.uk/m/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=25 ????? This any good
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Link ? . An expanding waterproof tape would be well handy !!
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That’s a good idea !
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Yeah I was thinking that . The size of that gap ( depending on which window ) can be a few mm from t frame to upstand . Too 15mm . Need a lot of ct1 for 4 windows . Can get my camera phone under the edge to check it’s good ....
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You can’t seal along and under . Just along . T frame isn’t ‘tight’ to upstand - needed wiggle room . So ct1 is only horizontal- but as said - must be gaps
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Yep - presumably not enough !
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Here’s a pic As you can see the double glazed unit siits down in the hole . The structural part of the glass sits on the ‘T’ frame . So no access to anything internally . No access to under edge of ‘T’ frame externally ?
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Can’t . frame is ‘T’ shaped so you can’t get to the edge outside . Glass itself just sits on rubber packers - sat in turn on the frame ( I was told to do it this way by the supplier ) . Only way is glass out so I can ct1 again under the frame .
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I can take ( and will have too ) the whole lot out . The issue is frame to upstand . Not sure what ‘tapes’ exist . Ct1 seems the favourite.
