Pocster

Normal ct1 not good enough ? So any tubed adhesive would be ok . Only mention ct1 as that’s whats to hand .

So on this wall return to the metal door surround . Just ct1 tiles to the timber ? . Assume that’s more than enough to hold them ( not very wide as you can see )

Not sure . I think the beading there shouldn’t say ‘ look at me ‘ unlike the profile edging . So perhaps plain white

That wall done . As tight to the ceiling as I can get . It’s going to be a dog to Mastik . Might find a simple white plastic bead to stick on instead .

Wee is nice . It spreads everywhere. Could be worse .... ?

Wee still goes everywhere. We all know everyone’s wee’s in the shower ...

Then it shall be so !!

But If I use trim on that wall won’t it look odd it doesn’t continue up the angled ceiling edge ??

It will surprise none of you that the levellers come out much easier on the same day they went in ? I Hope @Mr Punter likes his ensuite I’m doing for him

That’s true . I can actually see the difference in size and even thickness in my tiles . (expletive deleted)ing expensive rubbish . So stick a nice metal trim as tight to the ceiling as I can get ( whilst being level ! ) then tile upto it with my pro skills

That was my twin .

I *suppose* I could stick a straight beading along and cut each tile to meet it . I always though beading has a lip so the crap tile cut would go under it . What do I do with this ? . Just have a cut edge next to the bead ? . Should the bead be proud of the tile or flush ???

Don’t know . Will find out . Quick measure from tile at either end to ceiling about 4mm variation . Photo to show concern better

No ! Not there

So ! As I near the top of this wall what do I do at angled ceiling meets tile ? Can’t really silicone as need to mask the ceiling - tape might take paint off ? Beading ? With beading anyway do I fit first or with tiles as I go ? . Seem to remember beading always looks nice but cost is upsetting ! As mitring felt like a pita have these nice corner bits . Advice welcome !!

Look uncle Nick - LOOK Getting faster ( slightly ) , using less adhesive . This photo is BEFORE I’ve cleaned the faces . Decided to let my bowed corner go . Wall cabinet can hide my sins . So sorry Uncle Nick ( aka @Nickfromwales ) it didn’t work out with your last appreciate @Onoff - understand he met his fate .... RIPs ???

Almost . The short cut at the end to follow the other tiles on that row ( I.e flat , even if wall isn’t ) goes ‘into’ the wall . @Onoff has got it . I need to ‘thin’ a narrow strip of that corner vertically . As I said , luckily sink and vanity unit go on this wall and in this corner .

Lol sorry ! That photo’s misleading . The bottom of the level is on the tile face . I’m just showing that the ‘gap’ for the tile narrows as I go up the wall I.e no room for a tile ! My fault. Trick photo ????

It is But as it took him 5 hours to draw it , thought I’d better like it

When my bits are out no tiles are visible ?

I’m still lost ? The corner bows out as far as I can tell . I can’t push each row out a bit to compensate otherwise I’ll get the dread lippage . Appreciate with smaller tiles you can gain/ lose as you go . Still thinking of cutting a narrow strip of backer board out in the corner . Adhesive on the ok bit of tile . Ct1 on the bit where I need to be shallow and also beneath backer board is timber .

@Gav_P has given me OCD !! Bastard !! Tomorrow I’m going to gently turn that thread see if I can pull it in a mm @Gav_P you are a (expletive deleted) ??

You lost me . You mean deliberately push the tiles ‘out’ away from the backer board ? . Creep out a bit per row ?

Yes the ‘foam’ squashes against a flat surface as I assume . But it’s like a mm . I was more worried about the shower elbow not fitting fully on the fitting . Can’t build / tile to 1 mm accuracy ??

Or do I just ‘bend’ the fitting upwards ( it’s mounted on timber so there’s a bit of give ) . Bit of plastic packer becomes my friend .Still sticks out a few mm too much - but assume Mastik solves that !