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Pocster

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Everything posted by Pocster

  1. I think if I do that it will look autistic rather than artistic ! Another issue . If I do stick a water butt to the left the overflow can’t just go over the soil so I should put into the main drain ?? Theres a small access chamber nearby ( photo tomorrow ) so overflow say mdpe buried in ground and drill into side of sewer chamber ??
  2. Pocster

    Esp32

    I usually do . But esp32 for embedded stuff ; no power off issues I.e memory card corruption . Even smaller and lower powered . Oh and cheap , real cheap .
  3. Pocster

    Esp32

    Come on guys ! Esp32 ( especially s3 ) is awesome ness !
  4. Bit stuck as to best route here . Want to tap off the roof guttering in the top right . SWMBO not keen on a visible pipe . I can run on the wall or on the copings ( look shit ? ) , or straight down to a water butt . Any other suggestions ? . Best place is yellow/ green route as tank can be out the way . But it creates a visible pipe .
  5. Pocster

    Esp32

    Ummmm , sorry , missing the engineering ‘thing’ here
  6. Pocster

    Esp32

    Decided building a house and fixing leaks is a bit boring after 10 years . Like HA but hate shite like yaml . esp32 through visual studio with platform io and C !! Awesome ! Proper stuff !! So 1st ‘work’ is a water level monitor in the automated watering system tank. Tft display with animating water and percentage full ( got chat to write the code lol ) . Controlled via Alexa ; but default run time can be overridden via a http request by speech . Lvgl for the rendering etc . Ultrasonic transducers to measure water depth Awaiting parts to arrive . So (expletive deleted)ing cool … Come on you other nerdy types - you must be on this also !
  7. (expletive deleted)ing rubbish this website
  8. Ok , ok . You wonderful people … keep on topic otherwise you’ll feel my tip !
  9. One hot , one cold . Choices , choices ….
  10. Right ! As acting mod - can we please keep on topic 🤠
  11. I know the feeling big boy 😉
  12. I think it would probably just be the mistresses bedroom
  13. Maybe a floor unit? . Usually cheaper . Still got to create a vent hole through the wall either way
  14. I’d like it on record @Nickfromwales whom started this degrading dirty talk . Yet has he been banned for a month like I suffered ? , no . I think a month in the wilderness will be good for him . @Onoff suck on that fella !
  15. Yeah I read that . I have tinnitus so noise probably not an issue . Split system better ? ( not just cost ) . That’s not just plug ‘n play though is it ?
  16. You’re such a dirty (expletive deleted)er ! . I can’t double use the glory hole for air con can I !
  17. Yeah - knew I’d end up here eventually . So I’m looking on just 1 bedroom for now . I believe a mono block system ? . Plug into a socket , 6cm hole through wall ( 2 hole system better I believe ) ; job done ? That simple ? , any advice or recommendations?? ta !
  18. Oh yes ! You have got a massive surprise coming !
  19. That’s really rude. I’m quite offended . But it’s Friday ; so don’t give a (expletive deleted)
  20. Yeah it is just an open or closed circuit ( the switch ) . Been fiddling and am indeed using pin 9 and pin 7 gnd and I think it works . Just noticed your diagram is different . Also just noticed I have the Shelly uni plus - so that could be the confusion
  21. Hmmmmm Not pin 7/8 and gnd ?
  22. Nah . Wire on float is 20cm - but will need to be much longer in real use e.g 3meters . Guess I need to wire it with ‘real world’ wire lengths aswell to test . I could get around this with software I.e switch triggers , alarm goes off , then resets after a minute ; switch as latched on won’t trigger it again . So a manual reset required - probably a good idea after a critical flood event has occurred .
  23. But why is it needed ? When the float is off - it’s fine . Activate float , Shelly uni shows ‘closed’ on dry contact . Which is correct . Why doesn’t resetting the float ( open circuit again ) not cause Shelly uni to see that ? as it’s a dry contact .
  24. Yeah and ? . It’s a dry contact;
  25. Humans ! I’ve got a dry contact float switch . Works as it should . Stuck my meter on it for continuity test - all good . In Home assistant though ( via a Shelly uni ) it ‘latches ‘ I.e stays ‘on’ even when float physically reset . Chat ( my new best mate ) warbles on about a pull up resistor . This correct ? . If correct how do I know what value to use ? cheers peeps
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