vfrdave

It's not a grid switch, just a 4 way switch.

I have just moved in to the new place and everything is a bit crazy. However the kitchen lights are doing my head in already, we have got the switching wrong. I have a 4 gang switch with redundant switches, can I use a redundant switch to switch another light wirelessly? Almost like the quinetic stuff but I need some sort of transmitter to work with an existing switch.

What about these tiles, Bristol dark brick effect.

I don't have plans to chase the whole wall just to allow the tray in, hence my concern about how much of the tray will end up covered up. My pipes and all are in the walls already. Building out isn't that simple as I have high ceilings and therefore will have some exposed wall above the multipanel, think shower enclosure style, not sure how I would deal with that if I build out. As I wasn't planning to tile the whole en-suite how would I deal with the small return on the built out wall.

That is a full enclosure and suitable for corner fits only going by the available info.

That involves tiling the floor instead then, not sure about that. Also the finished floor is already in place, aren't these designed to be recessed into the floor?

Onto the next dilemma swirling around in my head. In the not too distant future I will be tackling the en-suite install. The shower tray is enclosed by 3 walls the intention was for a 1400 x 900 tray however the opening is now only 1350. This is as a result of plastering and probably the blockwork being just too much on the tight side to begin with. The intention has always been to multipanel the enclosure. I really don't know what to do with this out of the following options:- - Chase the walls to get a 1400 tray in and tank the bottom section. My concern here is that after the panels are fitted there would only be approx 10mm upstand of the tray showing. - fit a 1300 tray and box out to suit. The problem here being using multipanel it will not go to the ceiling as we have 9ft ceilings, hence why the enclosure was plastered. - find a custom fit tray or a 1350. Any advice or suggestions welcome.

I have now watched many of his vlogs and want the time and money to buy lots of tools and build a workshop. Need to finish the house first!

Pm sent

I opened my wallet and purchased. 10mm it is. 35 mm hole cutter will do both jobs.

So I don't have a fancy Vernier to measure the spindle. I have checked it with an adjustable spanner and it seems to land between 9&10mm.

Screed been in since late April so well dried out.

In normal circumstances yes, we have been pretty laid back and the place has dried out slowly over time. It has been 9 months since plastering finished, could have built another in that time.

I have all this ahead of me, hoping to move in within the next few weeks.

Big difference here your screed @Declan52 is traditional sand & cement and a big heat sink. @Ricco has cemfloor liquid screed probably 50mm deep, heats up quicker but loses it quicker also.

I haven't asked my supplier because we had to have harsh words related to garage floor. I guess there is 4 factors to this:- 1. A sealer that is compatible to be used on cemfloor. 2. A sealer that will be long lasting to foot traffic. 3. A sealer that is compatible to a floor with UFH. 4. A sealer that will not be detrimental to tiling at a later stage or need significant remedial works before tiling.

Cylindrical screw on for the tap and then a round washer shroud to cover it up. The spout just screws straight in and also has a round washer shroud. Spindle length to tile is 44mm, spindle diameter I measured as 10mm but need to do a more accurate measure. 35mm hole cutter will do both holes I believe.

This idea would work I guess but I don't have your engineering skills or an Arbor to sacrifice. I have a powerchange Arbor but too good to hack. I'm guessing you need the right depth hole saw also to allow for the length of spindle.

The tiles are too tight to the tap body currently. I can't get the chrome cover to thread at all on the hot tap because the tiles won't let it. The spout can't get in past the tiles far enough to catch a thread. Tap brassware installed too deep and at an angle it seems. Plastered over too thick. Tiler didn't have or ask for tapware just to make sure. Whatever of all of them I need to get my tap fitted.

@nod you might be the man to answer this also.

4 to 1 with what tempering there is ufh, confusing myself here. Tiler will use p51 before tiling.

What if I wanted to seal the floor while I wait to get the funds to tile it?

Can you tile to it later

Are any of these time limited, I have had it suggested that p51 will walk off after a week or so?

Just to keep this current, my epiphany seems to be right. Fitted cartridges this morning (it's only taken me 5 days to get to this) and normality seems to reign. Still the multibloc to whip out at some point thanks to @Nickfromwales solid advice and guidence. Next question related to this how or with what should I trim these tiles to get the taps fitted fully? Tiles for hot tap and spout are a few mm to proud to the threads.