MortarThePoint

Do you not rate the Hep2O tap tails? https://www.screwfix.com/p/hep2o-push-fit-flexible-tap-connectors-15mm-x-x-300mm-2-pack/1250f

I guess if the pipe is gripped by the plaster then it won't be a problem but if you had unconstrained pipe expanding into a constrained fitting you might have an issue.

Here are some dimensions

The grab part of the fitting needs movement, but I guess it's pressure tested before plastering so perhaps just the thermal expansion could serve to loosen the hold of the grab ring.

Don't fittings require a bit of movement?

Onto the Hep2O pipe?

I know you can chase Hep2O pipes into a wall and plaster over, but fittings not a good idea. What's the normal way to handle the need for a fitting then? For example a pipe leading to a basin or the like will need an elbow at the end. A basin may allow an open hole in the wall to be hidden. But a toilet cistern or radiator wouldn't. I have to feed a basin and high level cistern both mounted on blockwork. 10mm pipe coming down from ceiling so want to use a tee to feed the high level cistern and would also need elbow to make the corner to bring pipe out of wall at each.

In a bathroom sure, but also in what's just a toilet?

I guess it makes sense to draw air across the room from the door. If not in the ceiling, I don't see a reason for it to be at any particular height other than too low could be a vermin risk.

Is there any reason why you shouldn't have a low level extractor fan for a toilet? I imagine it's good to have it high in steamy rooms, but that doesn't apply. High level is crowded in ours due to a high level cistern. Would be easy enough to have the extractor fan at around 300 - 500mm off the floor.

Specs of the TechFast masonry screws are the same for all lengths, 10.7kN = 107kg. 2 layers of SoundBloc plasterboard with 600mm x 1200mm centres would be 21kg per screw (perhaps 25kg with skim).

Here is a BG Installation document that may be hard to find later: 07 GYPLYNER CEILINGS.pdf

Were you using metal wall studs?

Tempted to use 15mm plasterboard and 600mm centres to reduce the workload, but that puts up the load per bracket by 80%, though I think the brackets are OK with a double layer of 15mm anyway. Starting in a smaller area so will get an ideal of work rate.

Plasterer is nervous about channel being flat enough, so plan mount GL1 on brackets (GL2) slightly high, and then use a laser to adjust each one down to level using packer between bracket and concrete (all approx 230 of them). that should get all to within 1 or 2mm of level. Using TechFast masonry screws with Hex & Torx head (link) well priced at CPC. Note: fully threaded unlike photo. Also have some 32mm ones, which will limit to GL8 if used at all.

GL1 channels at 400mm c/c for 12.5mm plasterboard and 600mm c/c for 15mm plasterboard. Brackets (e.g. GL2) only need to be every 1200mm. Not clear how far first bracket can be from perimeter track (GL8), but diagram below suggests pretty far, so may be OK at 1200mm. Will probably limit myself to 600mm to first bracket. British Gypsum components: Channel GL1 & GL1 datasheet Perimeter Track GL8 & GL8 datasheet GL3 connectors for extending GL1 Brackets: GL2 (<=75mm), GL9 (<=125mm) and GL12 (<=175mm) for under solid (hollow core concrete in my case) soffit A Hough alternative brackets: AH185 (=GL2) AH186 (=GL9) AH175 (=GL12)

Some additional information about GL1 and GL8

As it turns out, I have few places that this applies to, and in the longest section of it (6m vs 3.6m) I have worked out it doesn't matter due to a happenstance. Where it still matters, I am wondering about using L-angle on the studs instead of GL8. This should be robust enough. L-angle doesn't cons train the GL1 from moving upwards unit they are screwed together which would normally be done by the drywall screw attaching the plasterboard. I can overcome this by screwing the GL1 to the L-angle before fitting plasterboard.

Achieving a small void with a deflection head and metal frame seems challenging. Even reducing the deflection head to 10mm and using standard depth channel makes for a 60mm minimum. Any thoughts? My blockwork has been done in such a way that going beyond a 50-55mm void causes pain.

There are some plasterboard access panels that leave a very clean finish once skimmed and painted. The ones I have found use 12.5mm plasterboard and I have 15mm. Has anyone found ones for 15mm plasterboard?

They do look great. How much void do you need above the plasterboard for these?

Roughly how much water goes into the plaster per m2 of blockwork wall?

Thanks nod, is there no bother when it's humid getting all the water out or any ill effects on the rest of the building (timber joists, studs, doors etc)?

I'm going with wet plaster to (Stranlite/Fibolite) blockwork and skim on plasterboard partitions. I was wondering when it would be OK to have this done. I'm still going through first fix, slowed by every full plasterboard needing the wife's help as well of shear weight of activities. My layman's understanding: I had hoped to have it plastered in September when the weather should be mild enough to not dry the walls too quickly but dry enough to be able to use fans to blow air though and avoid the fabric of the building getting too wet. That's slipped away and the plasterer says he's available end of Oct / early Nov. Below is some weather data from last year. I guess the most important things are temperature and humidity/dewpoint. https://www.cl.cam.ac.uk/research/dtg/weather/index-period-graph.html

Gearing up to do this. You're right, it is bay pole jacks and they are rated for plenty of weight. What's the normal installation sequence? The central window (3m wide) is very heavy and it would be very difficult for that to not me the first item put in place and braced bay poles are installed with the side windows. But that presupposes the sequence. I then imagine the head timbers being built on top of the bay poles and then the rafters cut in.