MortarThePoint

I won't be able to remove it due to the membrane, so it's a matter of working with what I've got. I share the concern about a ring seal. Solvent weld feels like the most robust solution. There's an amount of clear pipe available that is comparable to the insertion depth of a short boss. It won't hit and end stop which is a bore, but the solvent bond should be strong enough to support the stack shouldn't it?

Beads of solvent, or a sealant?

I have about 30mm of 110mm soil pipe to connect my stack to. It passes through the screed and a membrane and that's what I am left to work with. There's a photo below. Once I have cleaned the gaffer tape residue off, I figure I have 3 options: Pushfit double socket: Floplast SP105 the stub of 110mm pipe wouldn't push all the way home but would be at least 15mm past the rubber seal. I could creep under the weight of the stack above and so move down over time. I wouldn't want the rubber seal to contact the membrane that us taped to the side of the stub. Solvent weld / pushfit coupler: Floplast SP124 The sub wouldn't push all the way to the end stop, but would have ~30mm worth of solvent joint which is similar to what they have on their short 3-boss. It's pretty committed though as if I make a hash of the solvent weld I am stuffed. Universal Pipe Connector: Floplast SP140 this would push into the stub and so have no limitations as they are external. It restricts the interior diameter though. Is there no issue with using a ring seal onto a lower pipe? Are they more likely to leak that way? The black is from when I pushed a ring seal over before during testing.

Was that in 40mm pipe of 50mm?

Trying to understand various options for waste pipe layout. As I understand it, a bath or shower waste has to be at least 40mm (max. 3m length) or 50mm (max. 4m length) diameter to the stack. It needs to fall at a rate between 18mm and 90mm per metre. However, can I have a short vertical section in it for passing through a floor (hollowcore concrete)? The layout below has a section of pipe above the floor for ~600mm, a vertical drop with two swept bends dropping a height of 200-300mm and then a section of pipe below the floor for about 2m. All in 40mm pipe. The 2m section below the floor joins onto the 110mm stack. Is this only allowed if the is an AAV at the top of the vertical section?

One of those (the middle one I think) can be shipped from the US now. The one on the right is just for i-Joists. Looks to be the way to achieve a bigger pipe.

I want to send the pipe through a couple of truss bottom chords (222mm) and the truss designer has said 115mm hole too large but 80mm would be Ok

I know it's not ideal, but I need to work out a smaller size if I can. I see in Part H the paragraph below. Am I to understand from that it's OK to have a 75mm waste pipe from an <=80mm outlet toilet: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/442889/BR_PDF_AD_H_2015.pdf

I know using a macerator you can get the pipe diameter down to an incredible 22mm [link]. But macerators can be noising and go wrong as well as being costly. What is the minimum diameter pipe that can be used for a toilet waste without a macerator?

Good tip thanks. The plan is to S&C plaster all the blockwork so the tiles aren't too far behind the skim. That means tanking S&C plaster which should be nice and smooth.

Having discussed the bathrooms with the plasterer it seemed a good idea to sand and cement plaster the blockwork walls before tiling. Would that make for the following running order?: Sand and Cement (S&C) plaster blockwork Aquaseal tanking kit to S&C plaster and bare plasterboard in shower area Tile Can you prime the tanking surface to get a good key for plaster skim if I end up going a bit into the non-tiled area? I'm thinking of something like Bostik primer of BG Bond-It? https://www.bostik.com/uk/en/catalog/product/construction/emea/uk/bostik-plasterer's-stabilising-primer/

Cool. Is my price expectation reasonable at about £1,500 for 77m?

Unlucky, but I guess you don't know until you get started

I guess it can depend on soil conditions. It's quite easy clay here. Tree roots?

Our new build is about 77m from the roadside where there is an existing water connection to the house behind which we are building. We currently own that house too. We'll want the mains pipe to enter a further about 15-20m run away. The boundary to the front house is about 45m from the road. We'd like to avoid any pits in the garden of the front house. Is it possible to mole 45m or even 77m in one go? Based on this link it doesn't sound too expensive if it is possible. That was £950 [2018] for 30m with 4 inspection holes. The process seems quick, so even 77m should be OK in day ?? Below is a useful video. Seems to be straightforward to steer the mole as it goes. Also, judging by the number of rod sections on the dolly it looks like it should be able to go a long way.

For the isolation, I guess a 100A one of these could work: The fusing would need to be separate though

Smaller and cheaper to have a single phase switch per phase though I doubt that's allowed

Permitted development is a crazy system in that you're allowed to do something but expected to check anyway.

Do you know if there is a compact a 3-phase version of this?

I've clipped my pipes every 300mm with Talon clips so they'll either all be speaking or my pipe's going nowhere

The scratches are pretty continuous so can't cut short and splice on a new bit using a Hep2O coupler to solve the issue. Wavin list their own Euroconus adaptor on their website, so its fully legit : https://www.wavin.com/en-sg/product/b7e4577d-69fb-44c2-a1e0-23ab58110bb2 Available from a few places [1] [2], (~£8 each or a pair unclear). There are others for the same diameter and wall thickness. I have also seen for 10mm pipes [3].

Here are some pictures, though it can be hard to work out the scratches in some of the photos. Photos show 2no. 15mm and 1no. 10mm. You can see some small wisps of scratched plastic.

It's where I am squeezing 2no. 15mm and 2no. 10mm pipes through a section of 35mm waste pipe at 45 degrees through a blockwork wall. It's a tight squeeze and any slight debris will cause a scratch. It's not the cost, I'd swap it if I thought it would work. Do you not like the sound of the Euroconus fitting approach? Hep2O is designed for use with Euroconus.

Do not scratch your Hep2O pipes and take them back if they come scratched. Line any penetrations through blockwork etc with conduit or foam insulation. Hep2O fittings seal onto the outside of the pipe using a rubber O-ring. There is a Hep2O lubricant designed for refreshing their fittings that could help with pushing pipes and reducing the chances of a scratch. I have ended up with a scratched pipe(s) that I can't replace with confidence that the new pipe won't get scratched, here are my thoughts as to what I could do: [Maybe] Light scratches may be OK though I am a bit nervous. I only have light scratches and smeared printing. Sometimes a leak occurs at lower pressures that at a high test pressure so I always test at multiple pressures. [No?] polishing the pipe with fine grit sand paper or wire wool. I don't think this is a good idea as it will reduce the OD of the pipe and that is where the O-ring seals so likely to be bad. Has anyone had success polishing scratches out of Hep2O or similar polymer pipe? [Maybe] Use a compression fitting with copper olive. I have heard bad things about using compression fittings with Hep2O ( @Nickfromwales ), but it may be better than the alternatives. Wavin don't approve any sealant, just recommending PTFE tape if needed. A selant manufacturer may state their product is OK for Hep2O though. [Promising] Pegler's plastic push-fit system uses inserts that seal on to the inside of the pipe rather than the outside. I don't think you could mix brands (different ID?, tolerances, etc), but this made me think of Euroconus fittings which are used for UFH, but you can get WRAS approved parts. They also seal on the inside of the pipe using one or more o-rings. You can get 15mm straight couplers that would allow a cut and splice approach. I am thinking of using 15mm Euroconus to attach to a Euroconus manifold which you can also get WRAS approved. The main downside I can see is that it constricts the ID on the pipe fitting. For a 15mm pipe (ID approx 11mm) I guess the Euroconus ID would be around 7mm. A 7mm orifice at 6 L/min drops 0.53 m of head [link] which is equivalent to about 4m of 15mm Hep2O, so not bad. There may be a tighter orifice in the manifold itself. I believe Wavin approve the use of Euroconus fittings with their pipe, so it should be a robust solution. Any advice or other possible solutions?

One downside of a low hot water temperature is that you asking for a higher flow rate through your pipes as it will be further from a 50:50 mix of hot and cold. I was thinking 12 L/min for a shower, but it looks like it might be lower: "In the USA the maximum flow permitted from a shower head is 9.5 litres a minute and the UK government is looking to bring in an even lower rate of perhaps 8 or 9 litres a minute." [link] 15mm Hep2O which I am using has a maximum flow rate of 6 L/min if you are trying to stay under the 1 m/s flow velocity recommendation for low noise applications. Netherlands guidelines of maximum 1.5 m/s for hot water (2.0 m/s for cold). If all the shower water was going through the one pipe, the flow velocity would be higher than 1.5 m/s so could get noisy.