Thorfun

lol. Thanks. Can’t believe it’s as simple as that! Obviously it makes all the difference as to which I buy then! 😂

question out of curiosity really...... anyone know what the letters at the end of the Weidmuller terminal blocks naming convention mean? this one is PRV 8 BL 35X7.5 WS/RT https://catalog.weidmueller.com/procat/Product.jsp;jsessionid=F490E224509C0D79B55273816DE92EB4?productId=([1173910000])&page=Product whereas this one is PRV 8 BL 35X7.5 RT/WS https://catalog.weidmueller.com/procat/Product.jsp;jsessionid=F490E224509C0D79B55273816DE92EB4?productId=([1267840000])&page=Product what's the difference? why is the RT and WS swapped around and what does that mean?

thank you @ETC for the pointers to the building regs. I have read through what I believe to be the pertinent sections and cannot see why I would need fire rated doors between the hallway and kitchen. the regs clearly state that basements don't count as a storey when classifying a dwelling house so I see no need for internal doors to be fire rated. but I do need to comply with fire doors between the garage and the house. no problems there. The stairs leading from the basement to the hallway land at the hallway/kitchen threshold so this might be where the confusion lies as the stairway should be a protected stairway to comply. But in the section for Basements it says this: so ONE of those. I have an emergency external door providing escape from the basement which has a staircase up to ground level. Therefore I believe that the emergency external door makes our basement comply with the Building Regs if I'm reading the above correctly. therefore my stairway from basement to ground floor that lands by the kitchen doesn't need to be protected. I'll compose an email to the BCO tonight and then give him a call tomorrow/Tuesday to discuss. does anyone disagree with my findings?

This is the MOST helpful post! Thank you. Please can you link the BR document it’s from so I can go back to the BCO armed with this information. I especially want to read Appendix A which defines a basement.

I don't get this question. your VAT reclaim and the contractor's VAT reclaim have nothing to do with each other. Your contractor shouldn't be charging you VAT. if they are then there's nothing you can do to reclaim it. anything you've purchased can go in your VAT reclaim.

I was thinking about these 'fire door' discussions last night and I wonder if the confusion is coming from the terminology being used. in my mind a 'fire door' is an FD30/FD60 rated door with intumescent strips and auto-closers and a 'fire rated' door is a door that is FD30/FD60 rated. so, I believe that our internal doors need to be 'fire rated' and the doors between the garage and the house need to be 'fire doors'. at least that's my understanding. so our internal doors don't need the intumescent strips or auto-closures but do need to be FD30 doors. but I will double check with the BCO on Monday now that I have his number!

Found it quicker than I thought. 19.00 Internal Doors Supply and install new doors, frames and linings in positions as indicated on Architect’s drawings, to Employer/Architect’s approval. All new ironmongery to Employer’s approval

I don’t recall seeing anything on the drawings but there was a document with them that the architects created. I’ll have a look tomorrow and get back to you

So you’re saying that because I have a basement and 2 storeys above ground EVERY door in the house needs to have intumescent strips and auto closures on them as well as being FD30 doors?

But true fire doors need automatic closures. Our BCO only said we need those between garage and house and also only mentioned intumescent strips for the garage to house doors as well. We don’t need those on the other internal rooms, just need FD30 doors.

but a normal FD30 internal door doesn't need the intumescent strip does it? only the ones between the house and garage do I thought

bloody hell! glazed fire doors a <expletive deleted> expensive! 😭

thanks for the help all. just found out after our BCO Visit that they need to be fire rated as we have a basement the house is classed as having 3-storeys and so all internal doors must be fire rated. 😭 I'm now thinking about buying the fixings and getting our chippie to make a bespoke bifold door set our of glazed fire doors. surely it's just a top hung runner and some pivot hinges? will google it and see what I can find

ours wasn't. worktop guys came in and siliconed the worktop to it. although they were so quick i didn't even see it happen! but i'm sure there's silicone there. 😆

careful. at this rate you might be finished by 2026!

right. got it now. thank you.

thanks and makes sense now. 🙂

please let me know the lateral stability of the doors when operational with just that single screw

so you would put, for example, each Green wire in one side of the pair on each level and then a small jumper cable on the other side of the pair from L1 -> L2 -> L3 -> L4 etc to join the levels together?

morning. either of you know if these Appleby round back boxes can be used instead of the Loxone ones? https://www.electrical2go.co.uk/appleby-circular-dry-lining-box-35mm-sb639.html they're only 35mm deep which is all I've room for in some places. (25mm service cavity and 15mm plasterboard&skim).

would you not use an interconnected block for these like @joth has? i would've thought you just want to basically connect ALL the tree connections together and then a single feed to the tree extension?

qq @joth (although i think i know the answer) is the reason the brown and brown/white cables are on separate terminal blocks because the 'pairs' on each level of the teminal block are connected together? therefore you can only have a cable of the same 'colour' on one level? so you can't put brown AND brown/white on the same level pair?

cheers Rob. the info you sent me was invaluable and I look at it a lot to try and get my head around it all. I think it's a case of once I get started the pieces will all fall in to place. but I'm glad that I have figured out that I don't need to buy 32 8-way blocks as that was going to be very expensive. I think I've got a handle on it now though so will pull the trigger soon and purchase what I need to start the cabinet build. out of interest, why do you choose Wago over the Weidmuller that Loxone supply?

I was going to buy them individually as you've previously suggested from sites other than direct from Loxone. I just don't need 20 of these if I'm not terminating every pair! thanks. the problem is I have so many things going around my head that I start to get a handle on something and then my attention is taken away on to another subject and by the time I come back to it I've forgotten everything! like I said, I have re-read this whole thread numerous times. maybe one day it will stick! 🤣

yeah. thanks. your interconnected terminal blocks is what I was basing my calculations on. with the power and tree feeds at the bottom of L1 as you say. I like that idea very much.