Thorfun

Nice. They don’t do a 4.8mm bit though. although what’s confusing the Tek screws I have are DeWalt and say they need a 4.8mm bit but DeWalt don’t make a 4.8mm masonry drill bit that I can find.

well, I have some concrete screws that do not say on the packaging what drill bit size to use. and research on the web seems to suggest that it depends on the material being screwed in to.

yes! but what size drill bit do you use for those 6.3 x 32mm blue Tek screws? the DeWalt ones I bought say 4.8mm drill bit on the box but other makes on the web say 5mm.

What size drill bit would you use for 6.3mm Tek screws in to concrete blocks? 😊

sadly the day job keeps getting in the way of the self-building and I've used all my holiday allocation up this year on the house so the only time I have left to work on the house is weekends and public holidays.

**** it. everything I can find online says for 6.3mm concrete screws to use a 5mm drill bit. I'm sure it'll be fine.

thanks all. was measuring it up and I'm kind of limited by the beams and not wanting to fix too close to the edge of a block! so after a long think I'm going to fix in to the first block from the wall (approx 300mm) and then every second block which equates to approx 1000mm centres along each primary. it's a similar story for the distance between each primary in that I don't want to fix too close to the edge of a block and so I'm going to see what distance works best. it'll probably be a bit all over the place but hopefully will be a mixture of either 600mm or 900mm centres if I can make that work and will be more effort having to cut the insulation to size rather than just slotting it in but, like @joe90 says, as long as I don't exceed the maximum centre distance then I can fix as often as I like, right? the more the better for strength it just costs more and takes more time. my issue now is I bought these https://www.toolstation.com/dewalt-tapper-pro-blue-hex-head-self-tapping-screws/p86871 as @nod said the blue tex screws are best for fixing the hangers but the box says to use a 4.8mm drill bit! ffs. I have a 5mm drill bit and it's now too late on Christmas Eve to get a 4.8mm bit. if I can't fit the ceiling I'm going to have to spend time with the family over Christmas instead.

i'm struggling to find definitive answer to how far from the walls the first hanger should be for the MF7s to connect to. most of the information on the web just says "install a 1200mm center grid". but some mention 450mm for the first hanger from the wall and others i hear mention 450mm from EVERY wall should be the first hanger and then 1200mm centers from there. so confusing. i've trawled videos and the whitebook but can't get a definitive answer and some even contradict themselves! e.g. one video says that the hangers should be 450mm from every wall but then the video shows only 450mm from one wall. in the whitebook i see these drawings for standard ceilings which simply show 120mm from each wall for the first hanger. and this video also shows just 1200mm from each wall but this video says the first fixing must be max 450mm from the wall and then at 1200mm centers. anyone help clear this up please?

Maybe something from a structural engineer would carry some weight?

probably not want you want to hear but as has been said above if you apply for demolish and rebuild you'll save VAT which on a 180m2 house at £2k/m2 is well over the £52k CIL. so for the worst case scenario if they do enforce the CIL then if you're looking for a silver lining it could actually save money in the long run as you'll save VAT.

wtaf!

congratulations! having recently received our I know what a great feeling it is.

i've used traps like these (but different make) in a few places (under the bath and sinks in the bathroom) and like them a lot.

good luck!

I'm pretty sure that you were the one who told me to grow a pair and solvent weld everything when I was going to use push fit as well 🤣.

I've been avoiding this thread up to now as I'm not sure I ever want to comment on @Pocster's strap-on but oh well..... I would've thought that if it the strap-on boss was welded previously then it won't come off, right?

Check with your BCO before you finalise a decision

full on punk rock band \m/ she can always goes outside and work on the landscaping.

that'll probably take you about 4yrs.

I'm satisfied that my proposed solution will muffle the sound enough for SWMBO to be happy. obviously when i'm jamming in the music room i won't care about noise in the rest of the house! 🤣 i think i like to overthink things...........a lot!

about half-way through your build that was

it's not about the stated sound reduction etc it's more about building a ceiling to a manufacturer specification so that if it fails then i have a certain recourse. i'm sure i could easily make something up and it'll work but i want it to be "certified" by the manufacturer so i have someone to shout at if it all goes wrong. 😉

an interesting point. i spoke to BG tech support a little while ago as i couldn't find anything in the WhiteBook for what i'm after. they said that they have some internal docs they can send so i submitted a form and am awaiting those docs. that should give me various solutions and i can decide which is the best way to go.

i agree but you never know! it's definitely worth asking the question as it's not really their cash to give away as the VAT you paid will be going to HMRC, right?

damn! that is quick. need to get my arse in gear and collate all my invoices. good luck with getting better receipts. afaik you can't claim the VAT back that contractors have charged when they shouldn't but i guess you can ask the contractor/company if they'll refund it. again, good luck!