Thorfun

I didn't know this. how is that calculated? so with one heater AND the dehumidifier on one extension I'll be over the 10A continuous load? why do they say a 13A plug then if it will only take 10A? isn't that dangerous and confusing?

thanks Temp. looks like I'll do that. sticker on the dehumidifier does say 420W and I can plug both extensions in sockets in the main house that are on different rings which is fortunate! with the formulas correct I'm thinking that one heater and dehumidifier on one extension (2420/230=10.53A and even if the voltage drop is to 220V then that's still 11A) and the other heater on the other extension and things will be ok.

yep. I have fully unwound it and run it out along and through the basement so it is unwound and not just off the reel in a heap on the floor!

I looked at hiring an industrial dehumidifier and the specs on it just weren't very good! said it removed 20l/day and so I bought a dehumidifier that removed the same quantity and it is running but the trouble is I can't seal the basement very well as there's a massive void where the stairs will eventually go. so I thought heat the room and dehumidify it at the same time. I thought the heat would allow the air to hold more moisture that the dehumidifier could then remove.

oh dear. so I should stop using the one heater on the 40m lead then? I also have the dehumidifier running on the same 40m extension. out of interest, how does the length of the extension make a difference? would the 25m extension be better? I don't have electrics in the new house yet so I'm running everything off extension leads from the existing house.

I'm trying to put some heat in to our basement to dry it out and I have the following products to assist me. 2 x PTC 2kW heaters (https://www.screwfix.com/p/ptc-2000-freestanding-ptc-heater-2kw/9158t) 1 x dehumidifier (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0839M7VQT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) 1 x plug-in oil radiator (it's the wife's and I don't have any specification on it although I could climb down the ladder to the basement to find some details out if required!) I'm wanting to run both 2kW heaters from the same extension cable (I have this https://www.mad4tools.com/masterplug-open-drum-40-metre-cable-extension-reel-240v-13a and this https://www.mad4tools.com/masterplug-open-drum-25-metre-cable-extension-reel-240v available to use) and the dehumidifier and radiator of the other extension cable. I'm looking for some smart people to tell me if running the items off of those reels is an issue. I did A-level physics 30-odd years ago but spent more time mucking around that I did learning which would probably account for the 'E' grade I got. I do remember V=IR and P=IV but I'm not sure how that relates to running this stuff on a 13amp extension reel!

I had read that EPS was a nightmare with ufh staples. so I decided to go with 25mm PIR in the end. still worked out cheaper than having that space done in liquid screed and using click-strips or the like. I'm hoping that the ufh staples will hold fine in 25mm PIR!

I understand this but I had no issues using it. Fully PPE’d up and was cautious. I still have all my limbs intact. I bought specific shot fire fixings from my local fixings store.

A Paslode SPIT will do the trick. https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/nail-gun-JTH03300 I hired one through Jewson and it nailed some 4x2 into our steels. they're very loud though so I highly recommend using ear defenders!

it's definitely expansion that I need. stated on the prep document from the liquid screeders. I have no need for perimeter insulation in the other sense of the phrase. this screed is going in our basement on top of 25mm PIR and ufh pipes. below that is 250mm reinforced slab with 200mm EPS300 underneath that. the walls are 250mm reinforced concrete with 200mm EPS100 externally. so there are no thermal bridges to rectify and no need for perimeter insulation. to quote from our pre-install prep instructions: "Expansion Edging and Crack reduction You should install a minimum 8mm perimeter edging strip around the perimeter of EVERY area to be screeded including in and around door thresholds." so, I'm just going to go for the yellow stuff from eBay that I linked to in the first post.

sorry. didn't see you'd edited this post. it's for expansion only. I have 200mm EPS outside my basement walls that wraps underneath the slab.

Jewsons quoted me 4 - 6 weeks when I looked for 25mm EPS100 for insulation under the screed.

lead times and ripping to width put me off this route.

I've done a search on the forum and couldn't find much detail about recommendations for what to use here. I found this post from @Nickfromwales back in 2017 but the links aren't working any more so it's hard to know what products they relate to our liquid screeders have suggest the JG product (https://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-jgufhedge-edge-insulation-roll-150mm-x-25m/87019) but this is 4x the price of something like this (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350335173377?hash=item51919a8301:g:XzYAAOSw6dteOuEt&_trksid=p5731.m3795) and twice the price of this (https://www.underfloorshop.co.uk/product/underfloor-heating-edge-insulation-roll-50m-150mm-x-8mm/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIltDoleCu9QIVy-3tCh1UkgK9EAQYBCABEgJjg_D_BwE). I would assume that this stuff is pretty much the same (apart from colour) as it's all 8mm x 150mm and so why would anyone buy the JG stuff? is this a case that paying more is not actually a better product?

I wonder if it helps that the Architect and Architectural Technologist that did the work at the practise we used are both relatively young?

our [A|a]rchitect gave us a SketchUp file of the CAD drawings. that way I could zoom in, measure, check, adapt etc to my hearts content without affecting the CAD drawings. seemed like a perfect solution to me.

that's a good price. the quote for ours comes in at about £19/m². but we are in SE England where prices are inflated!

the timber firings on our flat roofs sit on the joists. but you can also get insulation that has a built in fall so timber firings are not necessary. as to whether it matters if they're wet or not I don't know the answer to that.

I don't know, sorry. the last time I spoke to our M&E company they specifically said Zehnder but it might be only because that's the unit we're having and when I spoke today I didn't ask about other manufacturers.

I got a call from Green Building Store today about delivery of my MVHR unit next week. I mentioned I was surprised as I thought there was a 6 month lead time on them as I wasn't expecting it for a few more months. To which he said that they're currently on a 40 week lead time. I was so shocked I nearly fell off the scaffolding. Glad I got in there early then. So, if anyone is thinking of going for a Zehnder unit then they'd better get it ordered well in advance.

I agree with those above that say 25mm is fine and it would've been nice to able to use 25mm x 50mm battens for us as it would've saved a lot of money but we had to use 50mm x 50mm battens due to our external blinds needing to have at least 80mm gap between the wall and the cladding. pretty much doubled the cost for our battening. fortunately we're installing it ourselves and so saving a packet on labour! ?

thanks. I'll look in to this product.

thanks. how long has that been up there? how often do you need to treat with UV protection to keep the colour? I'm asking as this is very pertinent to decisions we're needing to make very soon.

what timber is that cladding please?

we're going for external blinds built into a pocket in the timber frame so they're hidden from view. many threads on here about overheating allowed me to plan for this in advance. there are many!