Onoff

Ta. Not going to say "Are you sure?" but can't find anything in the Osma site to confirm this. The pipe is pvc-u to BS EN 13476-2. The Hepworth grey is pvc-u to BS EN 1329. So I put a smear of this on an unabraded, unclean bit of the soil pipe: Left for a while and it certainly seemed to have "eaten" into the surface a bit: The brown soil seems maybe a little looser in a couple of the grey Heoworth females of one type in the pics above but not so loose in two of another Hepworth component (not shown). I'll try and video what I mean. Just load with adhesive?

Faux pas on my part? Will brown soil pipe solvent weld to this grey Hepworth stuff? Cheers

No need to be abusive.....your spelling's cr@p too!

Loving this thread. There'll be few copying it I'm sure. Ref the crossovers, if you're handy with a bender you can do your own: (I'm just tight! )

Cheers. So if not fussed I put a 335, 6 or 7 on and it sits proud of the tiles?

So I'm planning this Geberit wall drain: Actually the shorter version, their 457.538.00.1 shown below. Towards the end of the above video they show simply putting on the "ready to fit set" which I assume is either the 154.335, 336 or 337 below. I'm at a loss then what the 154.338, 339 or 340 is for. Any ideas? Unless I'm missing something the video doesn't show these?

I totally forgot you were down that way! Dug by hand have you? Gives a certain satisfaction I found and cheaper than the gym! The photo is on the lines of what I'll do when I knock through the lounge / diner. I want level ceiling, floors and walls running through and at the mo absolutely nothing's in line/level from one room to the other. A scary thought I had.....if you remove a concrete floor (s) like we have then DID the original concrete floor provide a certain lateral "stiction" holding the walls in place? It's not like traditional houses have ring beams. Be interested how you go about the EWI assuming you've traditional footings that "step out" from the external wall line.

What would the "old school" method have been for a curved wall, vertical laths then plaster?

This help? https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.calor.co.uk/media/wysiwyg/PDF/using-hoses-and-tubing-250913.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwi5rPHjuZ_SAhXEPBQKHarJBkIQFggaMAA&usg=AFQjCNFY-CWRuHpLD5eto-tiSFo9IXeyVA Gas scares me btw!

No, not really for reasons above but it often is.

Been looking at the Geberit in wall shower drain from Insani24 and that's gone up a fair but since I last looked.....mind that was probably a year ago.....

I knew if I waited long enough I'd find the bloke who did this: & this: (Leccy oven & gas hob igniter btw)

I use Lathams for Buffalo board but they do some super flexi ply AND MDF: http://www.lathamtimber.co.uk/products/panels/flexi-products/flexible-plywood

.....didn't realise you could get a "flush" flush plate"! This is the one I have bought for my UP200 cistern!

There's this I found: http://vcut.co.uk/services/flexiboard/ Looks like you could end up with a series of facets so would need to skim it?

The stuff I've seen us only about 6mm thick with grooves on the reverse. I presume you put two layers on?

My Italian sliding gate motor has yet to cause any issues. Had it about six years now. The gates all in and slides lovely. Of course when I actually get around to fitting the motor I may have issues. Tbh it's a pita to keep getting out and opening the gate manually but the wife and kids are used to it now. I did at least get the rack on after this, set the motor and pinion to height / proper engagement.....trimmed the st/st studs.....must have gotten sidetracked!

Wondering if I could just drill a 20mm hole in the top somewhere and fit a M20 gland and length of flexible 20mm conduit (parts I've already got) running up to the loft? Then a small passive IR detector/occupancy sensor that kicks in an inline fan when you're on / near the wc. What's a test for this, light a plastic drinking straw, hold down the pan and see if the smoke gets sucked up?

From the bottom up mine is: Compacted <40mm hardcore Sharp sand blind 25mm EPS DPM 150mm PIR (100+50) Polypipe tray with UFH A142 mesh 100mm Concrete Tiles Calcs, values.....not a clue, all based on rule of thumb, anecdotal evidence & plagiarism!

If you're really worried.....and rich: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/1558320/?grossPrice=Y&cm_mmc=UK-PLA-_-google-_-PLA_UK_EN_Adhesives_And_Sealants_And_Tapes-_-Adhesives_And_Glues&mkwid=s0L91DEDC_dc|pcrid|88057075443|pkw||pmt||prd|1558320&gclid=CLGPvvuPntICFe0V0wod-h4Bxg I thought you were going to introduce a section of copper? Btw, what dia copper pipe would you need?

Ta. Was the just as worried about drilling the cistern in case it cracks or crazes. All I can find on Geberit sites is it's "one piece blow moulded plastic". So what sort of diameter should I be thinking about? (Tempted to try a teensy weensy drop of solvent weld on something that won't show to see if my Y branch mod would work).

You can get armoured Cat-5E / 6 out of interest.

Probably for the gatekeeper's lodge! I think he's meaning the 16mm2 is from the meter at the gate TO the house for the house supply.....but not sure.

Really keen to do something like this and pretty sure the wife and kids would really appreciate it too! So....as I understand it I need for a start to introduce a Y branch into the flush pipe that comes down from the cistern? As best as I can ascertain (lost my vernier so circumfrence/Pi) it's 56mm dia. No idea what it's made of though.....some kind of "styrene"? Looks like it is solvent welded? So the way this works; when you flush water comes down the flush pipe, past the Y branch and "clears the contents". When the flush pipe doesn't have water coming down it the "smell" can be extracted from the pan via the branch? So wondering if I could add in a generic solvent weld branch like this: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/d20/Plastic+Solvent+Weld/sd2885/Solvent+Weld+135°+Branch/p23092 What sort of an idiot would start hacking into a perfectly good Geberit???

Sorry, a bit lost tbh.....the 16mm2.....is that the proposed supply cable to the house? And you want to run the data and phone in the same duct? In the same "wiring system" each cable needs to be insulated for the highest voltage present. Or you install the cables in separate compartments like trunking. Or you separate with an earthed metallic screen but that screen needs to have the "equivalent" current carrying capacity of the biggest Band II circuit in this case 230VAC I presume. SWA provides no screening only armour. It's "leaky" between the strands. Screened cable is exactly that. Normal separation is 50mm for external cables but can be less if you install a non conducting divider. However..... The BIG consideration though is that segregation is meant to prevent mains voltage appearing on the telecoms stuff through induction which you REALLY don't want. A bit of plastic won't necessarily prevent that IMO depending on how things "lay" which is why separate ducts are a good idea. Your utilities company will likely have their own diagram showing trenching depths and segregation of services. Who's your DNO?