Onoff

@JSHarris, do you rate the Salus stuff, just saw your thread mention the Salus UFH actuator. Looking for an alternative to the Honeywell 28mm mid position valve that's mega bucks. Saw this: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p24643? @Nickfromwales, Salus in your book? Not sure where they're made...

That's handy, hoping to die here.

What if you've just got a huge, allegedly bottomless pit in the garden and you've only got a rough idea where it is?

"Whatever, I'd just connect the new light to the connector block and be done with it".  Read that statement again. Would suggest keeping the connector block wouldn't it? Is there room in the new fitting to hide the connector block? Post some shots of the new light fitting pls.

Place I've used for over 30 years. I'm fact it was the need for a piece of open mesh flooring that led me to them in the first place: http://www.pwnash.co.uk/Prod-6a.htm

I've a 4"x2" dwarf wall with a bit of 6"x2" inlet to bolt/screw the sink to:

Reckon I'll be returning this Lidl drill for a refund. Having to pull the trigger "just right" to get it to go. This is the replacement for the first that didn't sound right. As said above fwd sounded ok but not reverse. Just sounds like it's farting when it runs now and loads of sparks visible through the casing.

The line follows around the whole room so it'd mean cutting loads I can't recall tbh whether I stuck all the "tops" in with Sikaflex EBT or not. Hopefully just the leading edge. If so they should multi tool out fairly easily.

All three are!

Tonight's faux pas! I'm about 6mm out on the pocket height. Not yet sure how that happened until I look at the CAD and do a post mortem. Best I can do I'm thinking is hack out the 12.5mm thick Aqua Panel and replace with some 6mm thick of the same then re tank.

Finding I don't hate tiling now. It's all sort of coming together now. I'm not panicking for a start! Got half a system of cut a load first. Very little waste so far. Found out the hard way not to use bucket water from a previous mix to knock up fresh adhesive! Got away with it but a bit harder to work with.

I don't know tbh. Existing one is 28mm. It's 28mm from the boiler then to the pump, then to the AB port. A port is 28mm reducing to 22mm then teeing to the two 2-ports. The B port goes to the coil in the cylinder in 28mm. Edit: Just realised then this drawing is drawn wrong! It's deffo 28mm in / out of the cylinder as is the return after the balancing gate valve. I drew this years back from the hand drawn suppliers sketch in with the boiler bumpf. Never actually checked it matches what was there!

Why are Honeywell so much more expensive then than Tower? Like three times the price. Are the seals around the spindle better maybe as it's where it seems to be leaking on this Tower one I think rather than the compression fittings.

Sikorsky S-92?

Chinooks regularly thunder up our valley really low. Generally in the small hours. Love the sound of them.

I've replaced micro switches on these valves in the past. Something else too...capacitors? So I think I need a V4073A1088: https://www.honeywelluk.com/products/valves/motorised-valves/V4073A-Motorised-Midposition-Diverter-Valve/ Whoa! How much??? They're pricey!

Erm.....? What's that then? Hell of a lot of different models. Needs to obviously do HW, CH or both. There's a: MPN V4044C1569U, any good? There was I think back on eBuild a thread on Honeywell 3-port valves.

The replacement, generic motor / actuators say they'll fit either Tower or Honeywell. Names I'm seeing are Salus, Drayton, Danfoss, Siemens....etc

Trust me, it's a lot of work trying to do up an old, badly built place. I'm trying to do so now. Loads of time is spent making what's there "good" even if you're covering it up / adding. With hindsight I would have knocked down and rebuilt. If you need a push to self build then visit some of the Passive (or better than Passive) builds on here. I've only visited one and tbh you can't fault the logic behind it all.

3-port valve looks pretty corroded - 3rd pic above. Try and push the lever from Auto to Man and it just flops about, no resistance whatsoever. Sure it should make that whirring noise that they do? Current valve is a Tower MP3-28C. Quite used to Tower tbh but thinking maybe switch to Honeywell as they seem "the" name for quality etc. Any other make to consider? Cheers

Extend, EWI?

What's the method then to finish off around the Geberit flush plate box? Possibly should have grouted first before I snapped the projecting plastic wings? Could have left the bottom bit a bit longer possibly... Do I just grout around the edges of the box when I do the rest of the grouting?

Hello & welcome, it's good 'ere!

Take a better photo of the label on the pcb and all the numbers etc on the board around it. There's people on here will take great delight in scouring the interweb thingy for a circuit diagram!

Guessing it'll end on a cliffhanger...