Onoff

I want to run the XP operating system on the old pc for some specific software.

I'd like to have an old Windows XP pc and and newer Windows 10 pc sharing the same mouse, keyboard and monitor via a KVM switch then "network" them together just to transfer files. As long as I don't go on the internet via the XP machine and the Windows 10 one has up to date anti virus etc, will this setup be "safe"? Cheers

There was only about 1/2" of fuel in the tank. I took the air filter off and gave it a squirt of Damp Start. Slung a cap of lead replacement additive / octane booster in the tank too for good measure. Engine is running fine. I might jack up the rear end and see if the wheels rotate progressively faster as I go up through the gears. Pretty sure they did back when I last ran it...August last year I think.

Is it exactly the same deck as mine?

Thanks. Seen that seller before. You know me, DIY or die! Very nearly happened yesterday with a Dewalt 115mm 1mm slitting disc that went BANG when I touched a high tensile bolt with it. Gloves and goggles on but still scary and had me thinking "full face shield". I NEVER buy Dewalt discs but work owed me a tin to replace my own & they were on special for a tin of 10 at TS so I thought I'd give them a try. Utter POS. I went back to my favourites, Rhodius Alphas. Back to the mower.....deck back on but I'm wondering if I've a gearbox problem. Changes up/down OK through the 5 gears but doesn't seem to want to go very fast. Even in 1st it barely makes our slightly inclined lawn. Low on petrol so I'll get some more and have another go.

Dog rough but it's pretty much ready to go back on. Got the belt guard still in the citric acid tank along with a couple of pulley caps.

Chap over on the MIG welding forum does them to order in stainless. As I say I could get the sheet material from my fabricator and make my own. Making a full skirt like I did for the section, by notching and bending is pretty labour intensive. Rolling would be much better.

Her loss eh? It's the reason I got it. SWMBO steps under it and at the touch of a button comes out looking like that.

Indeed. You'd have thought by now he'd have had it going!

Use screeding rails to tamp with. My wet concrete floor came out flat and level enough to tile straight onto. (Pity my tiling's sh!t ?)

All repaired and painted up, derusted where possible. Either painted with just zinc rich whatever (using up dregs of cans) or zinc rich followed by Lidl Baufix paint. 90% of the fixings will be renewed in stainless. Be nice to use just a 13mm spanner and socket rather that 7/16" on the bolt and 1/2" on the nut! Better than it was anyway: New section of side skirt and internal "deflector shields" made: Typically, just before the lockdown, I found a local blasting shop that seems to be the sort of place ideal to have cleaned the deck up back to bare metal for reasonable money. Or I could have made up a citric acid bath with some blocks and a sheet of DPM maybe... As it stands my attempts with the rotary wire cup brush should give it a couple more years. Tbh there's bugger all to the deck. I might even consider making one o/of stainless steel next time and just transferring all the bits over. Wishing I'd bought one of those Lidl plasma cutters a while back. Far less complicated than the rotten deck on the other ride on mower I have, an MTD. Ref the assembly of this deck unsure on how important it is to balance the blades? Pre strip down it vibrated like merry Hell. The blade is retained by a central 3/8"x24 UNF bolt and a projecting plain shank "pin" that again goes into the same size UNF tapped hole in one of two holes either side. One blade had clearly been moving about as it had worn the holes oval. All filled with weld and re drilled now. Useless supplier just sent me a 3/4" UNF tap rather than a 3/8" one! ?

Wish I'd bought that Miele dishwasher off of you now! Still, the Bosch here is still going after half a dozen self repairs over the last 20 years.

If putting insulation in the floor you could even run pipes for future UFH!

I reckon these would be ideal: https://www.amazon.com/Narrow-Scissors-Cutting-Jewelry-Cutters/dp/B06XJ9HWPZ Couldn't find them in the UK though.

Sorry, late responding. He's into coppersmithing. Things like making leaves, bookmarks, rheumatism bracelets. I suggested he buy some super expensive jeweller's scissors from the States.

@dpmiller, received with thanks that info. As per my pm it appears yours was a truss rafter roof in a house to start off with therefore beefier than the lightweight ones in what is a garage by design. Saying that your clear span is a little more. I'd hoped to make contact with a tame SE mate in NZ to calc it up for me. I want to start pricing things up timber wise (or steel if necessary) but a bit stumped without someone casting their eye over it. I can draw what I THINK will be structurally sound but there'll always be that nagging doubt without proper advice. The other option is I go OTT but I wonder how much I will have needlessly spent going that route! I know there's Woodexpress which is superb but pricey. The demo version is good but only goes up to 5250mm span. http://www.runet-software.com/WOODexpress.htm

Didn't either bother looking. Been telling her it was noisy and to get the man in.

We could go on about who owns who etc as many big brand names are in fact from the same stable now. What didn't impress me was when I heard Bosch had bought an ailing factory in Spain to make cheaper "Bosch" models. Now stamped Made In EU rather than Made In Germany.

My Mums old Bosch has just give up the ghost after 37 years. All I've ever done to it is replace the motor end cap with integral brushes. It's been superb.

Maybe use a grey felt tip at the board joints for a bit of realism.

You can get Aqua Panel in 6mm. That's got a smooth side and a "hairier" one.

Get a black marker on a print of that first picture to get a feel for what it'll look like. Unless you're a dab hand with Photoshop etc.

Paint it black ( Bedec Barn Paint for instance). It'll hold the heat into the evening and be an absolute Sun trap.

You could.....cut a square of floor board. Drill through the centre with a 114mm hole saw. Cut the square in half. Glue and screw up from underneath or from above if there's two of you, can you even get to it? Fill from above and below. I think you need to fill these gaps to satisfy Parts B and E of the building regs.

Intumescent acoustic sealant like FIREPRO from Rockwool for the smaller gaps. I'd then be cutting a crescent shape out of whatever the floorboards are but with the PROPER sized hole saws this time to go round that soil pipe and gluing / sealing it in.