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Posts
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Everything posted by Onoff
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Check out @Big Jimbo's "shed" build: This chap is popular, thread on here somewhere about it:
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Quandary: Timber frame or masonry cavity wall
Onoff replied to Moonshine's topic in General Construction Issues
Slack git still hasn't finished it last I heard... -
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If you want to use 4mm go for it, I wouldn't as I've said. Likely nor would others on here! No. 12 X 1 1/2" should do. Just don't over size any pilot hole. Just get it on with whatever chunky screws you have and swap out later. 6mm black coach screws with a square head would look good... If not black the use a black permanent marker. Clean and give the screw heads a going over with the pen. Let dry, repeat. Touch up once in place.
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That's Weebles!
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Rails = ledges yes, the x3 horizontal members. 4mm screws are no use. You need No.12s probably. Table below has nominal sizes and shank diameters. Don't forget you measure a countersunk screw along its whole length, a roundhead you measure under the head to the pointy tip. You don't want to punch out the other side of your ledge. 1 3/4" is 44.45mm. Plus the hinge thickness you should just be ok with a No12 X 1 3/4 long countersunk screw. You can always nip a bit of the screw point off with a hacksaw etc. Check head dia on a No.12.
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Pretty sure my (M12?) bolts had a bit of wobble.
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As my pan was non Geberit I had to go off piste with the fixing detail. I was paranoid about the pan material sitting on the metal bolt threads. I used the clear sleeves and a length of plastic conduit:
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I've got an open bottom. (So no need for a 2mm pack here with the Bernstein pan).
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Bet you don't hear that very often? ?
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I didn't sit on mine until the CT1 had gone off. I used it as both packer & gasket as my pan sat across 2 tiles that weren't dead flush. Didn't over tighten for fear of cracking the pan but it certainly didn't wobble.
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There have been a couple of good articles in The Times over the last few years ref this. Google "swimming ponds the times". You'll need a Times subscription to view the full articles.
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Maximum fence post centres/ arris rail length?
Onoff replied to Randomusername's topic in Landscaping, Decking & Patios
I've 300' of feather edge fencing running East/West across the valley. Concrete posts, 3 X 3m arris rails. Never had a problem. -
Thought I recognised the fold down bed in the photos!
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Heatle - An alternative to boiling water tap or kettle?
Onoff replied to Donegalsd's topic in Kitchen & Household Appliances
Tempted to drop a table spoon into my favourite mug and chuck it on the induction hob here tbh... -
Heatle - An alternative to boiling water tap or kettle?
Onoff replied to Donegalsd's topic in Kitchen & Household Appliances
So in effect an induction "rod" is it? Looks great until you trip and impale yourself on it. -
Luxury! I shower in mine at about 9/10degC. I DREAM of 14.5!
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Like Ladybird simple?
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Top tip when chiselling out for hinges. Make sure the bevel faces the waste side. This should ensure you cut to the line and not over it.
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Especially in potentially brittle face plates (though I still try and do it).
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Has it dropped below 9degC in there yet?
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For a change YES! The hinges need to sit dead centre of the rails, the end. First thing I'd project centre lines onto the door face in light pencil. Is the architrave on and fitted? I'd have left it off and set it back a bit from the jam so you don't have to chisel it out. Correct me if I'm wrong but your hinge has to go like this: (My hinge is bent to buggery btw): Now one problem you have is that I imagine like this sh!tty old hinge the countersunks are only one side? I'd not think too hard about this, just use round head screws where it attaches to the jam. They'll push into the door edge a tad, so what. See where they mark it and drill a little recess if necessary for each screw head. It's called compromise! How thick is the door plus the rails? Screws: What is the hole size in the hinge? Use a twist drill to gauge this. I'd wedge the door in with the right gap at the bottom so it clears carpet etc. Then slide the hinges up, opened like in my photo so they are on the centre line. Mark where they are going to go. Remove the door and cut out for the hinges. Ordinary hinges but principle's the same: When you mark out use a chisel like below: If you f*** up drilling the holes then PVA in matchsticks (more than one if required), cut off level and redrill ?: Having the screw heads all rotated the same way looks nice imo: Get on with it!
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+6910
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Were you shivering when you typed that?
