Onoff

What I say to the kids when I see a cyclist holding everything up? "Ah the C word!"

Trying to explain to my mate why cladding his workshop in laminate flooring he's planning to get from Freecycle etc is not a good idea. For example: - Some have MDF cores. Moisture will get at it from the back. - Joint profile is completely wrong for shedding water. Multiple entry points for rain to get in. - Even a blockboard substrate probably isn't made suitable for external use. Help me out with a sentence or two why it's a really bad idea! I saw what happened when the FiL made a shed by cladding an old greenhouse frame in MDF and covering it in roofing felt. Eventually the MDF became so sodden, the weight of the felt alone broke the MDF apart. ?

Obviously the full nut goes on first. The half nut is there just so the subsequent decorative nut caps don't sit properly! ?

How about some reassuringly expensive Aerotight nuts,?

I'll raise you full nut and a half nut! ?

Best get the grinder ready if you're fitting lots of M16 A2 stainless.

You could dispense with the full nut and split washer and use a nyloc nut instead. Always, always, always lube the nut / bolt interface with copper or aluminium based anti seize compound when using nyloc nuts.

You could retain the character with external wall insulation (ewi). You'd still be pi$$ing into the wind because of your floor situation so even more expense to dig those up and take the ewi down below the footings. Even then you'll have cold bridges up through the internal walls. Let's not even start on the roof! You'd likely need to change that to get enough overhang to cover the ewi. Do all that and you'll still need to address the air tightness. The low energy houses on here and our traditional builds are a million miles apart. One of the passive type house builds on here took less energy to heat for 24hrs than it takes to boil a kettle...like 2/3 less. Just for a minute take that in. I wholeheartedly agree with the sentiments of Insulate Britain btw. I'm quite happy if they want to come and glue themselves to my outside walls.

You basically have a traditional, shitty old big house with FA insulation, holes galore, leaky as a colander with multiple heat loss paths. JUST LIKE ME! You either knock down and rebuild or try and bring the insulation spec up. You can't do either without ? None of the above will deter installers selling you a pup. The government handing the grants out don't give a sh!t as they've ticked a box that your house has been "improved", "made green" and is helping save the planet. I would never have an ASAP as my building fabric just isn't right for it. If I was well insulated etc I would.

It's astounding / time is fleeting / madness takes its toll ...

Today I received a Fakita multitool for which I paid £36.40 on Banggood. No major issue there as I wanted one and was happy to pay that but seeing the value stamped on the box it came in as USD 17.70 was a bit of a kicker! No accessories or instructions with it, just came in a clear plastic bag in a plain cardboard box. Has quick tool change etc. Seems really well made and works fine. No label on it at all ?

Can you guess what he's saying? ?

Just scored 29 same size pallets:

Repeated in bold from your anchor bolt & packer thread. How bad are the scratches? If real tears in the coating then you'll have to rub down and try and feather the edges, maybe even a smear of body filler, prime and paint. If you don't want to go the route of proper PPC touch up stuff then probably easiest to zinc prime and spray with an aerosol from your local car paint factors. They'll make to any RAL, BS colour and do touch up pens too. If you can give the approx gloss %age for the finish. Your minted, get a magic man in! You can have a word why they nicked your stage name ? https://www.magicman.co.uk/ Is it painted to a particular RAL number? Best start is to get some polyester powder coat touch up pens or better a pot of touch up paint from whoever did the PPC. The use the same paint powder in a solvent so it matches exactly. You can get it from 3rd parties online but they expect you to have some powder. Some of course will sell you the powder. The touch up paint pots have a little brush in like for solvent weld. If you just want to get on and do it then drill your hole, small brush, zinc rich primer and let it dry for a bit. If you go brush then any anti corrosion primer ideally with a zinc base. I see TS do a Rustin's one. At work we'd use Galvafroid generally on steelwork or Zinga sometimes. I say brush rather than a spray but I use the Pro-Cote Cold Galv Spray from Toolstation a lot for my various mad projects and garden repairs (at work too tbh). If you feel you can spray in the holes accurate enough without overspray (or mask up). I'd still probably spray. For this I might even splash out in some Zinc 182 spray (Halfords do it). It's good stuff. Let it dry in the hole. The Pro-Cote stuff dries real quick btw. Slap some grease in there, nut it up with a smear of anti seize on the threads. Go round later and wipe any excess off if it annoys you. For ongoing protection around the fixings a squirt of ACF-50. Periodically check the torque too.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Spanish-Windlass%3famp=1

Chris would have done it on his own whilst you sat and marvelled at his honed physique! ? Always remember him teaching me to spring over / under formed RSJ bends with a Spanish winch...

2 blokes, diesel, crane wear and tear, bung the bloke at the council. Seems fair.

Story of my life sweetie!

I dread to think how much!

I'd have thought you'd be a dab hand at banking.

There are crane owner's children getting private school educations because of your frivolity with money!

What with no handrail and a complete disregard for WAH? I'm sure he'll be fine. Are there special requirements for working alongside harbours, best take your lifejacket!

You can lead a ? to water...

You have an email ref this.

How much does the whole thing weigh?