joe90

We are talking structural and it was a working pub!

Just because a house is not level does not mean it is structurally unsound, you used the term “all these issues” and the word “obsessed” and I think you are on this matter, which is your prerogative, however if two structural engineers have come to the same conclusion you either have to accept it’s subsided a bit and live with it or buy another house you feel comfortable in. If the issue is subsidence what are you going to do about it? Look at that wonky pub that someone burned down, that was structurally sound otherwise it would not have been allowed as a pub!!!

Oh do we??? Anybody else want to jump in here 🤷‍♂️

Yet you said…. Which is why insulating is cutting energy usage which is good for the planet, and a personal investment cutting future costs to the user and giving a more comfortable living space (including a deeper bathtub if that’s what they want 🤷‍♂️) Which is what I did, (and most here) BUT working on diminishing returns limited that amount of insulation as value for money/comfort. Win win IMO.

👍 You may be comfortable living in a tent but I think most would not. If we did not insulate and invest in building houses our energy costs would be higher along with CO2 emissions . Yes by building better with more insulation spending the money once not monthly on energy. A common misconception even with new builds, everyone told me my rooms would be smaller however I decided on the room sizes then added the insulation afterwards (I know this is not possible with retro fit). I think that many here and elsewhere would disagree with you on that 🤔

Maybe, but us Luddite’s will still have things working when your cloud, smartphone, IT network, Wi-Fi gets hacked and controlled by the Russians/Chinese 🙄

No, I would have not been surprised. but I built my house to my current and ongoing income AND the planet as I knew energy would not come down in price and fossil fuels were bad for the planet. please explain how deciding on how I could have done this by not deciding on the level of insulation I have?. Currently it only needs heating a couple of months a year and very little at that (4Kw ASHP).

True but a piano hinge will fold back on itself. Parliament hinges are used to allow doors to fold back on themselves beyond a door frame recessed into brickwork etc.

I disagree, it’s always been said the first inch of insulation is the most valuable and added Inches add diminishing returns. With mine I decided that a 200mm cavity filled with insulation was worth the money/efficiency but any more and the payback would be beyond my lifetime.

True fir all insulation, diminishing returns springs to mind.

Yes, IMO, (and look far better than standard kitchen hinges) BUT, you will need short screws which into 18mm MDF might not be good, a piano hinge fixed to the edge of the doors will allow far more screws and longer screws. 🤷‍♂️

Yes and with energy prices rising like they are will give you a much cheaper to run house. My build was a simple rectangle and i rotated it 90’ to take advantage of solar gain on the longer elevation. No heating costs for 9 months of the year 🤷‍♂️

Not always, I have found that you only need to check if it’s ambiguous. From the planning portal “you measure from the highest land adjacent to the outbuilding”, however in your case it appears your building away from, not on top of the retaining wall so I think you will be limited to heights from the highest piece of ground it actually sits on. So I would say “A”.

Ditto, I was disappointed in sound transfer between floors despite sound insulation between pozi joists, i wish I had double boarded with sound bars. Sorry I meant PIR / EPS “type” rather than rockwall “type”

Whatever the fine sand will go into.

I would suggest however not all workers are the same, tar and brush?

How close to their boundary wall are you building? A Party Wall Notice dissent means that the adjoining owner is effectively dissenting to the Party Wall Notice that has been served upon them. However, the phrase dissent doesn’t necessarily mean that the adjoining owner is unhappy or unwilling to allow the work to proceed, it simply means that they are not consenting to the Party Wall Notice, and thereby want the full protections that the Party Wall etc. Act 1996 affords upon them. Dissent can often feel like an overly formal word, or unreflective of the adjoining owner’s overall feelings of the work, and therefore any building owner reading this, or confused about the phraseology dissent in the adjoining owner’s Party Wall Notice response should always take this into mind. How close to a boundary can you build without a party wall agreement? You can build your extension up to 50mm from your neighbours' boundary as long as you have either Permitted Development Rights or have Planning Permission. This could be a suitable option if you aren't able to secure a Party Wall Agreement.16 Jun 2023

I would spray with water, let the surface dry off then brush a fine sand/cement mixture in, the damp below will soak upwards and set the cement but will not stain if the tops are dry before you start.

You obviously used the correct grade of sandpaper.

I did some work for a mate including plastering which was (IMO) good, not too polished so paint would adhere and no ripples at all, returned the next weekend to him saying “I have sanded all the plaster for you,”, I wanted to say “why the feck did you do that “ but I didn’t. However when he painted it he complained about all the scratch lines he could see so I told him he did that sanding, if he left it alone it would have been ok (we still speak 🤣).

Well I had that conversation with our BCO and when I showed him the bba certificate for full fill he changed his mind. Another example of no common policy throughout the country on these matters 🤷‍♂️

I am one of those, block inner, 200mm cavity full filled with dritherm and brick outer skin 👍, the only PIR is under the slab, it’s the only insulation that will carry a slab.

Fair point 👍 I have seen this done with very good results (no idea which product tho). You need to do it when the wall is thoroughly dry to stop sealing the damp in the wall.

Oh I doubt that, and I say that because on my build I had full fill cavity (200mm ) of dritherm (which has a BBA certificate for full fill cavity). Outside wall was soaked (west facing near the Atlantic) but when I had to get into the cavity to instal my ASHP the dritherm did not wick any moisture at all. It’s why they call it DRItherm. We need more info on your damp problem.

As said by @Big Jimbo depends on “what” work was done before and if it meets regs. I would get a loft conversion company (a company that specialises in loft conversions) to come and give you their opinion. You may need to lift some flooring and plasterboard so they can inspect what exists. Then you have a better idea of what will be required and an idea of the costs.