joe90

As long as those new supports are resting on a wall it won’t go anywhere. Sister ing (bolting another timber on top) will take the strain off it, or a metal strap arpund the split. A good reason to negotiate a drop in price to cover its repair 🤷‍♂️

So…..I believe having read all the above your choice zoot is to find room for a buffer (and ask how small they can make it) or look for something completely different 🤷‍♂️

Well mine never made any noise. and I am not fkn liying. Because it’s a different system that works in a different way if you refer to my post above simply ask them if they will instal without a buffer because you have no room, if the answer is yes, no problem. If the answer is no then you SIMPLY have to decide if you want to find room for it or not have the ASHP at all 🤷‍♂️. Simples!!!

“What is a buffer tank for?” https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en/knowledge-articles/do-i-need-buffer-tank/#:~:text=A buffer tank is simply,energy from the heat pump. A buffer tank is simply an insulated vessel that adds additional volume of hot water to your heating system, i.e. the water that goes around the radiators and is treated with chemicals to stop rust. It acts a little like a battery for the heating system, allowing it to store more of the energy from the heat pump. Do I need an expansion tank and a buffer tank? An expansion tank allows for the expansion and contraction of a system when it heats up and cools off and provides head pressure for the circulation pump. A buffer tank adds volume to a heating or cooling system and helps prevent the internet can answer nearly all your questions zoot!

He is not even a good general builder. Yes it’s a crap job Do you mean this membrane or membranes in general?. Some recommend sagging very slightly to allow any moisture to run down to the guttering but nothing like what he has done. I repeat, a crap job IMO.

Although I had a buffer in my build there are plenty here that did not and I now question whether mine was actually required? I would simply ask why this expert says the buffer is required, get it in writing and post it here for others (who knows these things) to agree or pick it to pieces. You can tell them that “other” installers tell you it’s not required and you need to assess the situation. Once their reply is posted here we can all discuss it.

So @richo106 fix door frame and instal a pair of doors as per diagram above (as long as this gives you 400mm space to exit).

I too had an electric roller door on my last workshop which was brilliant but I don’t have the headroom in this “log” type garage fir one unfortunately.

NO, it’s screwed down to the concrete and screws not accessible Sounds like a plan, just need to wait till it’s dry 👍

Well the neoprene gasket under the plastic base didn’t work despite being screwed down tight, rain hitting the outside slab runs under it in a few places so I guess I will be using brown silicone 🤷‍♂️

@richo106 It really depends on your BCO, You could always say your not having a door then hang it after sign off 🤷‍♂️.

I don’t see why that door is against regs (unless someone can quote them), however I would hang it the other way so if it was open and you rushed to go down the stairs (fire alarm) it will get pushed closed rather than block the top of the stairs. (Fire scape doors open outwards).🤷‍♂️

Never heard of that before!!!, well a tourer is not a static and you have to have facilities for your builder (you) so crack on.

This is the best way to do this.

Or double board with 12.5 mil boards.

That’s me out then…… I did no calculations but copied our Jeremy’s principles as our houses were similar in size, (sucks finger and holds it up 🤣).

I think the 45’ rule would apply (45’ down from your foundations which I would consider the hardcore to include) but I think your original SE would need to know this and give his opinion. Neighbours eh! Some people just hate to see others getting on.

My new garage has a vaulted ceiling 🤣🤣🤣🤣 in all seriousness tho I like them as a stairwell

Ditto………🙏

+1, I have come across this before, perhaps tell your neighbours that building control want them as escape windows so must be openable, still ‘obscured but will only be opened in an emergency. Just depends on your neighbours being nice 🤷‍♂️

So how can a guarded window be used as a method of escape window 🤷‍♂️

I would have thought that with enough ventilation (that you do propose) it will be ok. I will say however I have come across cold lofts in the past with lots of condensation due to warm moist air escaping from within the house, so make sure your ceilings are well sealed. As you said it’s going to be a bugger to insulate tho 🤯. Could you not insulate with fluffy stuff just before you membrane and batten?

Another example of non consistency with BC.

I wonder what kind of hazard any approved kit could give to the network?

Well I had a zanussi washing machine for about 20 years and it was second hand then, never went wrong. Luck perhaps.