joe90

IMO use the drawings you have, if the BCO wants more Info will ask for it.

Beware of cheap long SDS drill bits, some are not hardened properly and can rivet over in the chuck and cannot be removed (ask me how I know!!,).

I have one of these and it does all the jobs without being too heavy, taking plaster off is not like breaking concrete requiring bigger machines. Three function and a really good brand https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-d25133k-gb-2-6kg-electric-sds-plus-drill-240v/2864J?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD8IdPzDhCkC0Xof8pW2Em0GR_Nyn&gclid=Cj0KCQiAouG5BhDBARIsAOc08RRANJoOM87qThkuWGelOOuc7IRBKxAOM7TJhU8vkL0hfINdbS1guiwaAtG7EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

That’s very dangerous to ask @Pocster

Well done mate, we might take the pi$$ now and again but we hold our hands up to you and what you have achieved.

Trying to second guess planners is a non starter in my opinion, apply for what YOU want and be prepared for compromise. Yes dealing with planners can be frustrating and frankly it’s a game (to them). I ended up with four applications but Won on appeal for my original application whilst I started building number four which the planners granted.

I did this with my strip foundations but reduced the height of the DPC to floor level in the inner wall to stop a slip plane and cracking in the plaster

UC3 Would be my choice fir longevity

It’s just untidy, a shame people don’t pay attention to the small details that makes all the difference. (Which us self builders tend to do).

Then you need to specify the the output required for the tools you have.

Says it all really, let them crack on. (At their expense of course)

Which it is by a 30 min fire protection ceiling 🤷‍♂️

The means of escape via other doors and low voltage wiring might be accepted by the BCO, worth a try I guess. Yes un vented tank will require sign off (tho my BCO forgot to ask for mine),

That’s fair enough, however the BCO should have given you a definitive answer on his previous visit, not “it may do”

Surely if covered in a 30 min fire retardant ceiling the steels are not exposed ? Was this not specified in your architects drawings? What does your ceiling consist of?

But lime render turns into limestone so no need for stone facing 🤷‍♂️

I would be reluctant to put a coat rack or hook on these doors, they are very flimsy in construction (tho look good)) for a single lightweight dressing gown I would use a rivet type fixing like this. The first one SM04020, not sure where you will get them but I have used them in the past https://rawlplug.co.uk/product/sm-interset/

IMO The foam behind will deal with the expansion and the scrim and plaster form a bridge over the pipes, just SBR the walls/plaster to grip both sides. No need for the pipes/duct tape to stick to the new plaster.

The same goes for any type of build, I was told with a large cavity and brick and block the rooms would be smaller, however I planned/decided on room sizes first. Mine was 400mm thick walls all included, bales only need lime render on both faces so not hugely different. A brick and block with 300mm cavity (which someone on this forum did) gave a 500mm thick wall.

No it was straw!!! 🙄

Although I considered straw years ago a think the likes of frametherm or cellulose are a better option nowadays and more acceptable by insurance and mortgage companies.

The only issue I came across was if you sell within 10 years a mortgage company needs a sign off separate to BC (Forgot the name) and because I had to sell mine within the 10 years I got a ticket from a third party company for less than an architects fee.

Technically I had no architect but I did pay one to convert my drawings on paper to CAD and file our application but he got the drawings wrong three times and he only had mine to follow. You don’t need an architect to get a mortgage just the sign off from the planners;BCO.

Just pick one, you won’t notice the difference (I used Spanish slate and turned out good stuff) crack on to the next decision 👍

I am not an SE but have done many loft conversions and I don’t see why a steel ridge beam was necessary, I have only used them when large dormers were installed. @Gus Potter will be along shortly (hopefully) who will know more.