joe90

Yes I was thinking knockdown and rebuild properly And get the VAT back.

Fair comment but angle grinder with flap disc will make short work of removing plastic IMO. ( I will be there to hold your hand, and only your hand 😳). The glue will only be around the hole surely?

That sounds good, definite contender. Take note @Pocster

No reason to remove the 4” pipe at all, that stays in place, it’s the strap on (no pocster, not that sort!!!!) boss that needs to be removed and replaced along with a short section of the 32mm pipe.

Yes I do, I believe in doing things right (first time if possible) tell you what, when you want to do it I will come over to Bristol and give you a hand if you want. Can’t do more than that bud. 😎

Reducing vibration is a good idea anyway but the seal is obviously broken and IMO will only get worse. Preventative work (replace it) will give you peace of mind for the future and you can crack on with the millions of other jobs on your to do list. 😇

Well our DNO got ours wrong (replaced derelict building and converted to underground) they installed a new pole to feed a public telephone box that no longer existed!!,! I wish I had access to their information and got involved as this pole now serves no one and my trench work (that I did to reduce costs) was approx 10 times more than required. It was the engineers that turned up to do the connection admitted their planners got it wrong FFS.

Yes welcome, this forum is full of information from people that have done it, not sales people flogging stuff. Dont be afraid of asking silly questions, silly is not asking and making assumptions which could be wrong , we all started somewhere 🤷‍♂️

Yes and yes, it’s the sealed glass panels that have failed not the frames,

Trouble is you won’t know where the solvent weld has failed and the water will just track under the fitting till gravity pulls it out at the lowest point, grow a pair and rip it off and do it properly. ⛄️

I did this into a cupboard behind the wall in my current house.

Yes my plasterer always used SBR and I found it excellent.

Oh I am sure there is (just sh1t stirring mate) for those of us that are interested what is your “to do list” like?

Why what else are you going to do. It’s not like you have a day job? (Tin hat on).🥷

+1. I used mineral wool in a 200mm cavity with normal blocks (I hate thermalites,).so much less faff and worked well.

Come on you pussy, only an hours work, two at the most, she can cross her legs for that long surely. p.S. I always sand the areas to be glued to make sure the glue works best and lots of it from a fresh pot.

That’s called “Sod’s Law” how long is that white pipe? 32mm is quite flexible to bend out of the way. If it’s a little leak wait till she is away tho whole job should not take more than a couple of hours !!! the trick is to get it done with no solvent glue applied, get the slip ring on one end and the pipes in line, smother the pipe where the slip ring is going to be then slip it over the glue in one go, using a threaded/screwing action. Easy peasy 😎 I once had to work in a downstairs maisonette and got the upstairs to not pull the flush or put any water down the drain for a couple of hours to do a similar job on the common drain down stairs 👍

What if you cut that white pipe away from the boss, remove boss completely and replace. I have been looking for a slip ring for 40mm (or whatever size you have) in solvent weld but can’t find one but you might) i case you are not aware a slip ring is a straight joiner without the stop in the middle so you can “slip” it on then pull it back over the join. Otherwise use a straight joiner and carefully file away the stop in the middle. I have done this on jobs before and saves lots of work 🤷‍♂️

The problem is the boss should be solvent welded on so any external sealer is not ideal. Can you not remove the boss, and re fix or replace and solvent weld it on properly?

Yes my architects job was simply to copy my paper drawings and he got several things wrong several times, it’s a good thing I had the knowledge to spot it, most customers wouldn’t.

Ah, fair enough.

Is the door frame already in place? Are you not creating a trip hazard having the door that high? (Pet hate of mine is high door threshold).

A beam suggests spanning a gap (lintel etc) but if this is just to fill a gap then why not do as @JohnMo says above, cut some block 40mm thick and bed on mortar 🤷‍♂️

Should not be a problem as ground is usually damp/wet at foundation level. Yes you could put In weep vents below DPC but frankly I think it’s a bit OTT but if it makes you feel better then crack on.

I got ours called in by getting a councillor to do it, I called him and explained the situation and he was sympathetic HOWEVER, he voted against me, as did everyone else and would not look me in the eye at the meeting. I was told by an anonymous source everyone was told to vote against my application CORRUPT OR WHAT !!,! Revenge was sweet when at appeal I won on all grounds and the planning department were told they were not abiding by their own policies and threatened with official action (never heard any more though).