ToughButterCup

Ian

I'm about to pour the last bit of concrete before putting in the wall-plate on the piggery. Have a look at this; Once I have poured the last 100mm or so of concrete, (in the holes you see) I will need to fasten the wall-plate to it. Should I run the wall-plate right the way through the gable, or cut the wall-plate flush with the gable and fill that with concrete? The image below should help explain.. I have deliberately not poured concrete into the gable block in line with the wall-plate - just in case your advice is that the wall-plate should run all the way through the gable Maybe it doesn't matter, and both options are reasonable. Just for information, this building isn't subject to Building Regs: it replaces the old piggery which has stood there for about a century or so.

A delicate one this: your 6th sense is a good a guide as anything. However, as a starting point, you might like to consider the following 20% of what? Is that figure reasonable if you were to source much / some/ all of the materials? How will that figure ('of what' above) be evidenced? How will you deal with poorly executed work? Who will judge the standard of the work? What level of detail will be included in the invoices submitted to you? Does the contractor have an account with the local BM / suppliers? If so, why should you pay more frequently than he pays his suppliers? I used to settle bills very promptly indeed. Until this tale of woe. Luckily, Debbie (SWMBO) trod on my foot before I paid the final invoice. She put it very neatly "Why do you think you should enable him, by paying up front, to over-trade even more than he is?" Be very circumspect until you have good reason to trust one another. Little steps. 20% is a big step.

This series will start you off Treat yourself to a small hand-held router first. Here's an example of what I mean. Routers are addictive.

You've lost that one. Durisol is dusty. And covered in cementitious material. Lots of chasing out to do. I now never go into the house without eye protection. That'll be a four pack of Hogoblin please.

It's been on the bottom of a long list for a long time.

Blimey lads! I write a post, go for a blow on Arnside Knott overlooking Morecambe Bay - hang on like grim death to my wig - and come back to all of this. Thanks very much. Least I can do now is to make a pucca job of the repair. Having isolated the circuit first

Being a responsible builder, I installed our eyewash station in the most used room of the house - the kitchen. Right where everyone can grab it easily and quickly. Put it up, right pleased with myself, until Debbie asked why the kitchen lights weren't working anymore? I've put a screw right through a cable buried in the wall haven't I? Right here..... The right hand screw is the culprit. The mood-o-meter says it all. To repair it, I need to isolate the circuit, prove that it is is dead ( a la John Ward) Dig the cable out, and find the break Then what? Help please....... I know less than anyone in the world about electrics. Thanks Ian

My experience of ours went like this

Just like buses; when you need one etc.......

Location, location, location. Our estate agent mentions that simple fact every time he visits.

Hard work rewarded. I'm sooooooo jealous. Well done Ian

Let's see if I have understood this correctly. You have written permission to site a caravan on a semi rural site. And you'd like to live in it pending the outcome of a possible full planning application - right up to the outcome of a potential Appeal. In my view, and direct recent experience, there is no down-side at all, until you are forced to leave the plot.

And that, that's the first sign of a self builder. Sort that out and you won't fall in it, as it were.

Welcome Do check the drainage thoroughly first. No foul drain, no house. Personally check every ground survey in detail. If you can, watch it being done. Why? Read this. Forewarned, forearmed. I like cold coffee, iced coffee even more. Ian

Exactly. I made the mistake (sometimes fatal on BH) of assuming an architect would be involved. My apologies @Jml.

I may be an Admin, but I'm no building expert. You may be right in some circumstances. However, it is more common for Building Control to visit the site. They will need access to the SE's calculations and drawings. And that'll be accessed via email. So even if the SE lives next door to you, the data will be transmitted via email. So the SE could be based anywhere.

Hello. You'll be aware of the answer I gave yesterday. Our SE is in Cork, Republic of Ireland. We have never met, neither do we need to. The key thing is - does the SE provide what you need. Not where he or she is based. Good luck

I am fairly sure the only difference is in the resin levels. Larch is described as 'lively here. And its resin clogs up chain saws better than your grandma's knickers. ASk me how I know....

The answer depends on the job specification. Ours (Tanner's) was excellent at some things, not so on others. (PM me for details). It's a bit like talking to an economist or historian or ecologist '....(pick your discipline) If your enquiry is slightly out of their specialist areas, and you are lucky you'll get a direct open and honest answer - something along the lines.... "That's not my specialism/ field/ period/ ..." With SEs I understand it's more common to get an acceptance of your business and a stock , super-safe design: whereas a specialist SE will design exactly what you need, it will be cost effective , and he or she will work quickly and competently. Tanner's saved me many thousands of pounds by writing one simple sentence. Where piling and PH foundations are concerned, Hilliard knows his stuff. He communicates well. To me 'good' is a blend of subject specialism, engagement with the customer and the ability to communicate simply. To answer your question Tanner's are good, but they may not be what you need. What's the job that needs to be done?

Ditto. Ian

You are very welcome. It didn't take long between me approving your membership and the first post... Might even be a record. In terms of ICF. I have a little experience of just one method, but there are several out there. The system I use is relatively cheap, but I would ask you to have a look at some of the problems I have encountered (just search for Durisol on this site) . Those problems would be significantly reduced for a single storey build.... Here's a single storey one I made earlier. (I never got the Blue Peter badge; still rankles after more than 50 years) The problem I refer to is bursts occurring during the pour. Frankly on a single storey it's a non-event; shovel it up, put in a barrow, make a bit of shuttering, fasten it, re-pour. We are building with Durisol. Have a look at the many other systems there are. The other key factor is the skill - level of those building with and for you. If you are doing this on your own, even as a complete newbie, I would guess that skill level is almost irrelevant. The push to get it right first time is intense. Have a target U value in mind, choose the system, build. Couldn't be easier. (Yeah, right) We look forward to your comments and questions. I don't know where you are but if you are passing J33 on the M6, you could drop in and poke around to your heart's content. We are 2 minutes away. Ian

I'm getting on with our rendering. @nod came round and talked me through it (among many other things) : the only issue is heavy rain and frost . Some folk who come to see us say that what I'm doing isn't rendering. It's a very thin (5mm?) coat of sand and cement (4:1:1) like this It dries quickly. The purpose of this 'render' is simple airtightness: your job I take it is a lot more substantial.

This year I have made a successful claim (thanks to @JSHarris , @Barney12 and others) . Given that the modal price for SB insurance seems to be about £600 ish, let's try guessing what my renewal premium will be..... £800? More? Ian

Don't buy either of the Bosch Professional hoovers. Mine is reliable, but overpriced to the point of rudeness.