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ToughButterCup

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Everything posted by ToughButterCup

  1. ToughButterCup
    No. Our planner told me some time later, we were the last in Wyre to have got through on the old understanding of 'sustainable'
  2. ToughButterCup
    I hate to be fair to the LPA; but exceptions illustrate normality. When the final arbiter (the Inspector) says sustainability now means being able to walk to local services via a footpath, whereas two years ago it meant merely being within walking distance of the local service, it appears that the meaning of sustainability has changed. What really interests me is the rationale and methodology by which the Inspectorate change their minds. As long as they do not explain that change, we can be as cynical as we like - and so have reduced confidence in the Inspectorate. It is a great pity that very senior people feel they can take still take refuge in arbitrary, arrogant behaviour on the basis of mere delegated authority.
  3. ToughButterCup
    Notching?
  4. ToughButterCup
    Thats what I need.... GOTTCHAS... Thanks @MikeSharp01.
  5. ToughButterCup
    As I suspected, this learning curve really is pretty steep. So in an attempt to make sure that I reduce the number of errors in establishing our first floor at the correct level, I thought it might be an idea to start a thread - hopefully I'll be able to summarise it as a check list later. First: the end in mind Accurately mark out the position of the top of the wall plate (rim joist) such that our 202 POSIs sit at the correct height. Follow this bit of maths through with me please: Assuming the top of the POSIs is the same level as the top of the wall plate , it (the rim joist) needs to be 20mm (the depth of the decking) below FFH; (2350+255); that is (2605-20) = 2585mm above FFL In order to mark it out, since our floor is currently 25mm below FFL (currently we are at sub-floor) we need to add another 25mm = 2610mm above our current floor Naturally, it isn't that simple is it? Our timber spec is C24, treated, 200 by 50. Well wadya know? Timber of that spec isn't. It's less than 200 and less than 50 (195 by 45 ish). Which means the bottom of our POSIs are going to be hanging low (to coin a phrase). Our hanger spec is 200 by 50 Does it matter that the bottom of the hangers are going to be below the bottom of the wall plate?
  6. ToughButterCup
    @Alexphd1: not yet; but tell me when you are passing us on the M6 ...............
  7. ToughButterCup
    What a brilliant idea......
  8. ToughButterCup
    I'm busy recycling my screws. It's more faff, but they are so expensive....
  9. ToughButterCup
    Hmm, I've just remembered. I have four trestles left here by someone. Too old, concrete-covered and rickety to bother about I suppose.
  10. ToughButterCup
    Is the cost of tools with legs a cost the self-builder just has to accept? I've begun to get a bit fed up of small things going missing: a key-less chuck, small hand tools, a wheel barrow, an fairly serious attempt at appropriating a mixer. Not committed by thieves, just tired builders throwing stuff in their van at the end of a hard days work, too tired to care....
  11. ToughButterCup
    @Pete, I once (quick) formatted a disk with our time lapse images on.... Dont save anything else to the disk (it might over-write the images ) Read this thread. Good luck
  12. ToughButterCup
    I'm talking about rim joists - which are often -confusingly- called wall plates.
  13. ToughButterCup
    Wyre Borough, my local area is in a similar position. It will be interesting to see how the Council interprets the meaning of the word '...sustainable...' I draw attention to the word as a result of our experience. We succeeded in our application for PPP whereas our neighbour failed. The differences in application between his application and ours were minor - with one notable exception the ecology strategy. Wyre refused the application, where a few months earlier, ours was accepted. Reason? The change in the understanding of one word ; sustainable. Whereas before it was understood to mean (among other things) within walking distance of the shop, bus stops and so on, now, sustainable has come to mean be able to use a footpath to access the shop and local amenities. Why the change? Paragraph 8.1 of this document spells it Here's the core arguement One of the key points regularly highlighted within the appeals relates to the provision of safe pedestrian environments and good levels of connectivity to community facilities and services. In this instance whilst the outline application has been approved there is very poor connection to public services with no foot paths to public transport links or to the A6 which is located to the south of the site. Furthermore the site is unrelated and disconnected in geographical terms to the facilities and services available within the Settlement of Forton and The LPA now have a better understanding as to the interpretation of the NPPF and locational sustainability and each application is determined and assessed on its own merits What does '...better understanding...' mean in practice? The results of Appeals Decisions. Read Appeals Decisions. Exceptions illustrate normality
  14. ToughButterCup
    Thanks for the nudge about marine ply. Now I know what I want for Christmas. ''...Other bits....' the sticking bits?
  15. ToughButterCup
    Bolting to the core. BUT (here's where it gets interesting) This post explains the problem: in essence fixing the wall plate to an outer surface is different to fixing it to the inner surface of the wall because on the inside, the concrete is just under the wooden 'sheath'. The outside of the block has 120mm of PIR between the wall plate and the concrete. Durisol say: cut a 100mm core 50mm deep into the outer face, remove the PIR. Drill the concrete ready for the bar, put some resin in the concrete and put the threaded bar in. Allow to dry. Plug the 100mm by 50mm 'core' with a cement and water mix: consistency - yogourt. Fix the wall plate. Faff..... Comes to mind.
  16. ToughButterCup
    Before I forget @Onoff, I have noticed how carefully you mark stuff out. I'm trying to imitate your style.
  17. ToughButterCup
    Interesting. Why?
  18. ToughButterCup
    Ha! one of those... half laps. I last made one of those in woodwork lessons in 1965. I still remember the shame of getting 5 out of ten for it (probably less). My mate, got 8 out of 10. Creep.
  19. ToughButterCup
    Thanks @Mr Punter Here's what I know: and here is the relevant bit of the BR submission: I hope that makes sense to someone..... Ian
  20. ToughButterCup
    Just a quick one: does a wall plate (rim joist) have to be a continuous piece of timber? I ask because a visiting rep asked me if I needed the wall plate to be one continuous piece of timber. Maximum uninterrupted run is just under ten meters. Nowhere in the architect's notes does he mention a continuous run of timber for the wall plate. Thanks. Ian
  21. ToughButterCup
    Yes, I think you are right. He did mention that at one stage......
  22. ToughButterCup
    Bit of help needed here please. Part of our roof is flat. I am determined to avoid at least some of the problems associated with flat roofs if I can. One strategy is to create a significant fall on the roof. The question is how to create that fall easily and hopefully cheaply. The plan: The elevation: The architect has noted that we should use soft wood (SW = soft wood I assume ?) tilting fillets. I note from this post that we should make the fall 1 in 40 or steeper. (Thanks @tonyshouse) The Fall: Is there any reason why we should not build that fall into the POSI joists in the first place? (instead of using tilting fillets?) Attaching the wall plate (rim joist) As planned, the wall plate (rim joist) attachment system (threaded bar resined into the concrete behind, I should imagine) will butt up to the Durisol block face: and that is the face which is backed by 185mm of graphite polystyrene - and then 120mm of concrete. On the other side of the Utility and boots room, the wall plate abuts the 'internal' face - the concrete 'side' of the Durisol block, so there is no potential problem with that face. In short, does the 185mm of insulation matter when attaching the wall plate (rim joist)? To help you visualize my concern, here's a schematic image of a Durisol block.
  23. ToughButterCup
    Thank you thank you thank you. Such a simple thing can make you feel so THICK , to have it explained simply is such a relief.
  24. ToughButterCup
    Whasat? Gorilla Torque? Frankly, I'd like to tighten some of their nuts for them, and then walk away.
  25. ToughButterCup
    Try explaining that to a wife who's never picked up a screwdriver before, and, looking at the box of screwdriver bits says '...Must have been designed by a man... Nice work if you can get it... what is this nonsense about.... job creation?...'
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